Drivetrain noise sr...
 

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[Closed] Drivetrain noise sram 11 speed

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Hi all, just fitted new chain and cassette . Gear change is good and pedalling is good, until under heavy ish load. Sounds like chain is rubbing against chainring or cassette . Difficult to replicate in the stand because of putting under load. I may be missing something very obvious but ideas ?


 
Posted : 01/12/2018 2:58 pm
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Probably the chainring and/or jockeys growling if it they worn too much and wasn't replaced .


 
Posted : 01/12/2018 3:07 pm
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Also if the chain ring is narrow/wide, could the chain need moving a tooth forward on the chain ring?


 
Posted : 01/12/2018 3:23 pm
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I dud think chainring as it's the original one . Was starting to get noisy on the other chain and cassette but would quiet down when clean and lubed.  May order a new chainring see if that helps .


 
Posted : 01/12/2018 3:52 pm
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But it it's n/w and the c<span style="font-size: 0.8rem;">hain is sat on the wrong gap it could rattle/rub ... And wear out your chain ring prematurely.</span>

It might help if you list exactly what you're running.


 
Posted : 01/12/2018 4:06 pm
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It is sram x1 cranked with x sync ring.  Has a gx cassette and kmc chain. It is a narrow wide ring but I thought it only went on in one position? Maybe I do have it wrong then?


 
Posted : 01/12/2018 4:15 pm
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Rear mech bolt nice and tight?


 
Posted : 01/12/2018 4:17 pm
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Jockey wheel bearings or narrow wide jockey wheel not synced


 
Posted : 01/12/2018 4:20 pm
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Rear mech is tight, it does regularly work loose though!! Jockey wheel bot synced ?


 
Posted : 01/12/2018 5:10 pm
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The jockey wheels on my sram 11spd are n/w same as a chain ring but the chain will go on. Makes a rayte noise when you do.


 
Posted : 01/12/2018 6:13 pm
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Highly likely your chainring.

Unlikely you've managed to mash the chain into the wrong plates, I've never seen anyone do that - you'd have to really try.

You can rule out the jockey wheels by checking if they look spikey, or not. If they're not spikey, then it's gonna be your chainring. You're probably fine until they look like the one on the far right, it's surprising how long you can go before they're worn - the bearings usually die before the teeth.

For the future - get yourself a chain-checker tool, Park CC-3.2 as it has 0.5 and 0.75 increments (~£7). If your chain is at .50, you can change you chain and everything else will be fine, if it just fits in 0.75 you can probably get away with a chain only, if it's well over .75 then you're very likely need to change the chainring. I find SRAM cassettes last a lot longer than chainring. Which makes sense, as they're Alu, and the cassettes are at least part steel - and you shift between gears, but not chainrings.


 
Posted : 01/12/2018 6:40 pm
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I'll order one , it us the original from the bike which is 2015!  Hopefully that is it. May try an oval ring whilst I'm at it


 
Posted : 01/12/2018 9:28 pm
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The sram x-sync / x-sync 2 steel chainrings are worth a go. But heavier than alloy but last a lot better. Seeing as you have a steel cassette as well you should get good life out of the drivetrain.


 
Posted : 01/12/2018 10:49 pm
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The sram x-sync / x-sync 2 steel chainrings are worth a go. But heavier than alloy but last a lot better. Seeing as you have a steel cassette as well you should get good life out of the drivetrain.

The OP's had his chainring for 4 years. If I was getting 4 months, I might consider a steel one.

OP - stick to aluminium for your chainring. Oval is good, it's not snake oil.


 
Posted : 01/12/2018 11:45 pm
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Yeah, not expecting a miracle with the oval ring , but can't hurt really?!


 
Posted : 02/12/2018 1:07 pm