DIY – pointing, lead flashing help

I’ve got damp problems in one room which appear to be down to a bit of a ropey drainpipe situation on the external wall. This photo is first floor level, bay window roof to the left, porch roof to the right, and the drainpipe coming off the main roof. Problem seems to be that there’s no flashing against the back of it, so water collecting just falls down against the brick (there’s a funnel just below into another drainpipe).

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Maybe clearer hear where I’ve taken the drainpipe off:

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How best to sort this out? I’d planned on just repointing the bricks (although bit awkward to access the lower stuff), but it seems the flashing is in a bit of a state and needs a new piece at a minimum, and it’s not something I’ve done before. Thanks for any advice.

Is that an outlet from a flat roof (lead or other) to the right? If so you’ve got a particularly annoying convergence of factors 🙂 (I did leadwork for circa 14 years). It looks as though the hole for the downpipes was cut through the top of a valley (not a particularly good idea that one) to enable this to reach the drain? As you have the flat roof exiting here, I would suggest a repair to the valley, and then the addition of a welded lead slate around the downpipes, unless you can terminate it elsewhere. And then replace the flashing over this. It wouldn’t hurt to trade the bricks at the same time.

EDIT – If it’s easier give me a call, depending on where you are I could recommend someone (not me I’m in Spain 🙂

Thks palmer77. It is the outlet from a flat roof, yes, but the roof area is really small, about half a squre metre above the front porch.

That hole is the only place for the water to go from the top of the porch and bay window, which seems a bit poor. So a welded lead slate would seal everything around the downpipe nicely, but there’s be nowhere for rain water in that area to go, if I’m understanding you right?

Is lead flashing available in small amounts? I think some flashing at the back would make a decent temporary fix until I get someone in to re-work the area properly.

where does the hole go?

what is underneath?

IMHO I would avoid cutting a hole through a waterproofing detail for any reason if possible. IN this case, if its for the downpipes, and alternative would be to fit a bend and additional length to allow it to disperse further down the valley.

I am assuming that the pitched roof to the right terminates into the valley also? Given that this also has the flat roof dispersing into it, you want to avoid anything that could slow the water dispersement down, i.e. the guttering detail, however if you can’t avoid this, you need to make sure its a belt and braces job as inevitably it will collect debris, and this will add to the discernment issues.

You can but lead slates from places like Jewsons etc, work out the diameter, and you’ll be able to fit the pipe through this. But you’ll also need to ensure that both the pitched roof, and flat roof then terminate on top of this, as there will still be a hole in the valley top beneath it.

Can you post a wider picture?

EDIT – An alternative to all of the above is to cover the lot with Flexicryl lol 🙂

Collection funnel into another drainpipe, here:

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So the pipe in the first photo in the OP goes down into this funnel no problem, it’s the rainwater from the surrounding area just falling down the back of the hole, along the brickwork, which I think is the problem.

You can bodge it (again) and have to get it done proper later on or do it properly 1st time.

If it was me I’d get a person capable of welding lead in to make new outlet, can’t fully see if its possible to slip something up from the bottom (oh err 😯 ) and dress into brick work to direct water into hopper.

Yeah looking at that you could form a ‘catch pit’ at the top of the valley, BUT its a lot of work just to accommodate a down pipe which presumable has had extensions built around it over the years. See if you can get hold of around 1m of 450mm Code 4 or 5 and use this to create a new section to the top of the valley. You should be able to create a bit of an upstand against the wall, and this should go under the slates to the left, and the flat roof outlet to the right. Then you can put a bit of cover flashing into the brickwork, and adapt the downpide.

EDIT – A good guide on most details here, albeit £35, but worth it http://leadsheet.co.uk/home/manuals/

Or pocket guide – Pitched Valleys[/url] & Cover Flashing[/url]

It might be better with a photo taken of the whole elevation to put the detail into context, but can you seal a roof outlet (clicky) into the corner (or on the porch roof if it’s suitable)?

You could keep a continuous down pipe with the roof outlet connected to the same down pipe where the hopper is now. Down pipe and roof outlet both fully sealed with an upstand and cover flashing to protect the wall