Home Forums Chat Forum Dehumidifiers…are they the answer to my problem?

Viewing 28 posts - 1 through 28 (of 28 total)
  • Dehumidifiers…are they the answer to my problem?
  • sefton
    Free Member

    2 years after some house renovations the front room and the sofa smell a little damp. The room is at the end of the house and hence probably doesn’t get a lot of air circulation (it’s also the gable end).

    It’s an old stone built house and other rooms have various degrees of moisture in the lower walls however they’ve been like that for about 20 years and cause us no issues really (perhaps wooden flooring doesn’t let the moisture escape so it does so through the walls)

    Anyway, I’ve just become aware of dehumidifiers…could a unit in my front room keep moisture levels down, air circulating and thus cure the damp smell (or at least it not getting worse)

    If so…which and what sort do I need???

    Cheers

    mert
    Free Member

    Quite possibly. It’s fixed the (slight) damp issue in my basement.
    More air circulation would usually be the first port of call though.

    3
    jameso
    Full Member

    They help but one of them running intermittently won’t do much for the damp levels within a house overall, even a small one. We’ve found opening the windows early in the morning for 15-30 mins before the heating comes on far more effective in reducing any effects of damp. Colder drier air heats up more easily and tbh I haven’t noticed a difference in warmth since the habit of letting air circulate early am. I like the fresh cool air too.

    stugus
    Free Member

    Yeah, it’ll certainly help but won’t solve the problem. We use one in the winter months when drying clothes inside.

    1
    jezzep
    Full Member

    Hiya,

    We too have a stone house. Our damp problem was caused by poor pointing and wrong pointing material. Once I removed the cement pointing and replaced with lime mortar, all was good. I also dug down on one side and fixed drainage and let the walls breathe better it was all fixed.

    Oh yes are the walls clad?

    BR

    JeZ

    2
    sandboy
    Full Member

    We live in a three hundred year old, solid brick wall cottage and have a dehumidifier running on low most of the year and it has cured all of the damp and black mould we used to get especially on our gable walls.

    Dry air is easier to heat so the running costs are offset by reduced heating costs.

    lambchop
    Full Member

    Positive air fan would sort it or maybe an extract fan with humidistat. If not possible Meaco dehumidifiers are good especially if you can run a drain hose from the unit . Otherwise you have to empty the reservoir often.

    lesgrandepotato
    Full Member

    Maybe light the fire? That’ll draw the air through it like when it was built

    fossy
    Full Member

    They do work very well. We use ours in the kitchen to dry clothing, with the added benefit the moisture from cooking is removed – we no longer get mould forming on the bay window in the kitchen.

    There are three types. Cheap Peltier ones that aren’t great, compressor ones that work well, and desiccant, The latter is supposed to be best, but reviews say they guzzle electricity so check the power consumption.

    MadBillMcMad
    Full Member

    As reccomended off here we bought a maeco 8litre zambesi desicant dehumidifier.

    Works a treat. Got timer controls so we don’t run it 24/7

    Daffy
    Full Member

    Compressor dehumidifier with a 12-16l daily capability will work well.

    Jamz
    Free Member

    We too have a stone house. Our damp problem was caused by poor pointing and wrong pointing material. Once I removed the cement pointing and replaced with lime mortar, all was good. I also dug down on one side and fixed drainage and let the walls breathe better it was all fixed.

    Oh yes are the walls clad?

    +1

    What renovations did you have done? In old houses with no damp proof course, the walls need to be able to breathe so that they don’t get damp. That means lime mortar on the outside and lime plaster on the inside – no cement, because it doesn’t breathe. It also means traditional paints that are breathable. I would also be checking the drainage outside the property, corresponding to where you have the damp inside.

    sharkbait
    Free Member

    There are three types. Cheap Peltier ones that aren’t great, compressor ones that work well, and desiccant, The latter is supposed to be best, but reviews say they guzzle electricity so check the power consumption.

    I’ve just posted about this as I’ve just been looking into buying one….. it’s not exactly that clear cut.

    FunkyDunc
    Free Member

    As above what were the renovations? Was adequate ventilation put in?

    Positive Pressure Systems would help, and actually I think are a good thing in any old has that has a dampness about it.

    TBH I am not a fan of the dehumidifier, yes they take the moisture out, but they dont help air circulation

    Mackem
    Full Member

    If you are anywhere near North Yorkshire you can have the one I have sitting around doing nothing. (was used in previous house)

    2
    fossy
    Full Member

    Bonus, just managed to fix the old dehumidifier that sits in the detached garage protecting the tools, bikes and camping gear. It’s a good 20 years old but the buttons had gotten unreliable and had a mind of their own eventually resulting in them doing nothing.

    Was about to bin it then thought I’d try and access the circuit board and ‘buttons’. Got it to bits and the board was full of fluff. Brushed off and blasted the whole board and buttons with electrical contact cleaner. Back together and it’s working again.

    It’s tatty, yellowed, but stops damp well in the garage. I’ve had times when all the surfaces are sweating due to a sudden temperature change outside.

    Needed something fixing as our tent is polycotton and prolonged damp will do it no favours.

    trail_rat
    Free Member

    We went PPV.

    Not looked back. Cost 350 quid to fit but has reduced our condensation issues to nil.

    We used to get condensation on the windows….and we coped. Quick karcher vac and it was gone.

    Replaced those windows with new double glazing. -the dew point moved to the dormer cheeks due to poor insulation- and this meant mould.

    The PPV has removed that. I’d have loved to have gone full heat recovery ppv but there was no realistic way to do that without tearing the entire upstairs down 🙁

    Having lived in a flat where the landlord deemed dehumidifiers a solution to the issue….. Id move house before I used that solution again. Effing racket , go away for the weekend and the dehumidifiers filled and return to that musty damp smell … No thanks

    1
    Autoelec
    Free Member

    On the back of the info’ from this fantastic forum ordered a Meaco DDL8. Ran it since Tuesday, just got humidity down to fifty percent (two bed ground flooor maisonette). Wish id got a humidity meter at the start to get an initial reading (ThermoPro TP65C is great). Yes, it’s a little expensive to run. About a £1 a day, but the heating hasn’t been on so a save there. And the best news the damp / condensation has just about disappeared. Happy with that. A lot quieter than the old compressor type, lighter too.

    sharkbait
    Free Member

    A lot quieter than the old compressor type

    Compressor dehumidifiers are very relevant and probably more efficient for your use case [if you’d read the Meaco info linked above!]

    hot_fiat
    Full Member

    A dehumidifier will possibly just mask the issue. In a solid stone building damp on the inside of the walls doesn’t come in from outside, unless your gutters or pointing are shagged, it runs from the inside out over, water vapour from breath, cooking, washing & bathrooms condensing on the first cold surface it finds. If you’ve added insulation to the wall, not provided a vapour barrier surface or not fastidiously sealed it, you’ll end up with interstitial condensation between the new warm wall and the old cold one and potentially damp where you’ve got any bridging.

    When establishing a vapour barrier, you have to be obsessive patching every nick, indentation or crack in kingspan’s barrier surface. Socket backings also need taping with foil tape, sealing cable openings and screw holes.

    We’ve done this so well in our new kitchen that we get CO2 alerts if the extractor isn’t run on very low when we’ve got people over. We’ve a pair of MrXBox MHRVUs to go in the loft to provide ventilation to the house. They’ll be installed in the coming months but for now the extractor works fine.

    2
    thisisnotaspoon
    Free Member

    They do work, and are arguably more efficient at heating than a lot of options because they emit substantially more heat than they use electricity.

    But it takes a fairly big dehumidifier to do even a small job.  They’re best for small, sealed, unheated spaces, like boats left over the winter.

    When it comes to keeping a house dry, you’ve got easy access to dry air (the outside world, cold air holds very little moisture) and heating.  So a better option is probably to just circulate some air from outside, then warm it up.

    To put some numbers to that, lets say the house has a volume of 300m3

    at 21C and 100% RH (say you’ve just cooked some pasta), that’s about 5.5kg of water.

    At 5C it’s 1.8kg.

    So just opening a couple of windows for a minute to fill the house with fresh air will remove 3.7kg of water.

    It takes ~135kJ to heat that air back up again, or 0.04kWh.

    TL:DR I have a dehumidifier in my gym-shed over the winter months to deal with the moisture when I’m not in there.  When I am in there I just open the windows.  Having said that, a reasonably efficient dehumidifier is probably as cost effective at heating as gas/oil and better than electric, so may well pay back over a few winters anyway.

    There are three types. Cheap Peltier ones that aren’t great, compressor ones that work well, and desiccant, The latter is supposed to be best, but reviews say they guzzle electricity so check the power consumption.

    Desiccant – works well in the cold (i.e. a shed / boat / garage) , expensive to run.

    Compressor – works best at room temp, cheapest to run

    I’ve got the DBBL8 in the shed on a timer, it comes on a couple of hours a day time just before I intend to use it to take the edge off the chill so it’s doing two jobs in one.

    1
    robertajobb
    Full Member

    I got a Meaco ‘Zambezi’ dessicant dehumidifier about 10 days ago for the garage. It’s detached from the house, single skin breeze block + render. Unheated.  Pitched roof + felted, but no insulation and the rafters are open to use as storage.

    A few days before getting it, stuff was covered in condensation in there.  Even despite the new insulated sectional door (which had made things a better in there- not hermetically sealed by any means, but a whole lot better).

    Anyway- the drier is on the lowest setting, but constant.  I’m defo having to empty the (3 litre I think) bucket every day.

    It is distinctly better in there since starting to use it – even Mrs came in when I was doing something and commented on how it didn’t feel as damp. And no condensation even after having the door open yesterday for a while.

    I’ve taken a view that the £200 or so quid to run it for several months is worth it to prevent things going moldy, the steel bike getting and corrosion, and not to have the tool chests and tools start to rot.

    2
    jamesoz
    Full Member

    We suffer a bit from damp in our 50’s end of terrace. It’s been particularly bad this year in the damp Thames Valley.

    Drying clothes inside causes issues pretty quickly, also issues from showering.

    In the bathroom I have a humidistat controlled extract fan  and open windows when possible.

    We found Black mould in a bedroom cupboard, so we removed the wall paper in that area and treated with white vinegar then bleach.

    We have since bought a couple of  12l Deawoo compressor Dehumidifiers, which we ran for a day initially. Now we just run them after showers, when clothes drying or just high humidity levels in the house. When opening a window doesn’t help.

    1
    sharkbait
    Free Member

    I’ve put my compressor Meaco on a wi-fi plug in our bedroom now and it runs every day from 9 am to 4 pm.

    It uses 800w a day.

    oikeith
    Full Member

    A few days before getting it, stuff was covered in condensation in there.  Even despite the new insulated sectional door (which had made things a better in there- not hermetically sealed by any means, but a whole lot better).

    I have this each year when the temperature swings, first time in gets proper cold it looks like its rained in my garage, leave the door open for the day and it dries and wont occur again till this time next year.

    1
    sharkbait
    Free Member

    It’s when it gets cold for a while and then very mild…. The moisture in the milder air condenses on the [still] cold surfaces.

    sharkbait
    Free Member

    Anyway- the drier is on the lowest setting, but constant. I’m defo having to empty the (3 litre I think) bucket every day.

    Because, unless it’s reasonably sealed, its just going to be constantly sucking moisture out of the atmosphere!

    robertajobb
    Full Member

    Yep.

    It’s reasonably sealed *for a garage* – but it’s still a garage !  I’m just accepting the £200 or so running cost though to Easter is worth it for non-rotten, non-moldy tools and gear !

Viewing 28 posts - 1 through 28 (of 28 total)

You must be logged in to reply to this topic.