I’m probably one of the least experienced on this thread. I’d say be patient, don’t compare yourself to some of the guys on here (seriously good!) and be prepared to toss a few finished and part finished models out. Avoid planes with rigging and helicopters, especially small ones. That said I find it enjoyable and some of the results have been pretty good.
Saw a guy using some kind of Blu-tack type stuff on a You Tube video earlier that seemed to work quite well. I’ve been free handing my camo (brush not air) which I think is ok on 1:72 but might look a bit underwhelming on 1:48.
I am only a relatively quick bodger compared to you lot but the ace thing is that my two boys are really enjoying it so we can do many hours on a wet day with no blooming electronics. We have a Handley Page Jetstream, FW190, MK1 Spitfire, Vampire and Jet Provost currently in build between the three of us.
If anyone has any suggestions on starter air brushes or basic air brush tutorials on YouTube etc would be interested in a link or three. 🙂 Kids seem keen to give them a go and I can see some advantages.
No, water based acrylics. I’ve got the bulk of the plasticine off now but the paint is not sticking where the plasticine was. I’m going to give it a wipe down with glasses cleaning wipes, see if that shifts the crap without damaging the plastic or the existing paint.
Otherwise it’ll need a wipe down with either enamel thinners or white spirit. I have no idea what that’ll do to the acrylic paints already there
Blu-Tac next time. I really don’t want to ruin that lovely SAM system.
Btw , re airbrushes – I use a Neo by Iwata double action gravity feed airbrush (it’s my third…) and a budget-ish compressor. You can start with a cheap Revell airbrush kit, single-action with suction feed, and a canister of compressed air. It’s a cheap way to get started with airbrushing but those canisters soon add up to the price of a reasonable compressor.
I’ve used Maskol masking fluid on 1/48 & 1/72 aircraft, but when you peel it off, it leaves less than perfect edges.
I believe a paper mask gives a reasonable result but you need to get your sizes right. For example:
@johndrummer that Corsair is going to take some saving, I feel your pain!
I usually cut Tamiya tape into thin strips (so they go round corners) for the edges, then fill the middle bit with low tac painters masking tape. Tesa pink is my weapon of choice at the moment, it’s about 7 quid a roll but lasts ages and cuts well.
@garage-dweller look for a cheap compressor on Facebook marketplace, there’s usually a fair amount on there, then buy a couple of 15 quid airbrushes off ebay to practise with. When you start spraying thin your paint more that you think, most people have it too thick to start with and it splatters everywhere.
I’m still fighting the Albatross, I nearly put it on the floor and stamped on it tonight! I superglued the wing struts on backwards and had to cut them off, then glued them on backwards again! 😂
I haven’t really enjoyed this one but I’m going to finish it even though its getting right on my tits now. I couldn’t be bothered to airbrush it and just brush painted it, it didn’t turn out to bad, Vallejo is great for that.
On the subject of camouflage finishes – Spitfires etc were spray painted using large rubber masks to give a standard camo pattern which would have a hard edge. Late war German tanks were delivered to theater in overall sand (or even red primer sometimes) and the crews would spray the patterns on in the field so you get a soft edge.
I think the Corsair is beyond saving 🙁
The layers of paint are already so thick I can barely see the recessed panel lines. Unless I can strip it back to bare plastic, I don’t see how it can be saved. Looks like another trip to modelhobbies.co.uk.
Real shame as I’d already added some aftermarket detail to the cockpit & canopy
I’ve ordered some paint remover, I’ll try that first.
Next up – check that the primer hasn’t filled any detail in on my big SAM system. Then a 1/35 BMD4 to finish the tracks for.
A couple of Tamiya 1/48 tanks to finish off
Tesco value kitchen cleaner is supposed to be good for stripping paint off
If the paint is acrylic, a soak in soapy water might be enough to loosen the paint. Otherwise, I simply put the model I want to strip into a plastic bag or tupperware box and I’ll spray liberally with either oven cleaner or Dettol before sealing the bag/box and leaving for a few days. Dettol is very, very good at removing paint but is nasty stuff to expose your bare skin to for any length of time and will make your workshop area smell like a hospital.
We should have a Virtual Model Show where for one day we just post a couple of pictures each of our favourite work without discussion, irrespective of whether we have shown it before.
We should have a Virtual Model Show where for one day we just post a couple of pictures each of our favourite work without discussion, irrespective of whether we have shown it before.
Next Sunday?
Brilliant idea. I need another wet day or two to finish the very amatuer quality Spitfire. Did you mean 22nd?
Still eyeing up airbrushes and gathering tips to finish it nicely.
@johndrummer I think you posted that a while back (I’ve noticed as I’ve been trying to catch up on the whole thread from beginning to end and trying to understand words like pre-shading) but it’s no less impressive second time round. 👍