Undercarriage fairings on the wrong legs?
No, looks like I got away with it!
It’s s the decal on the L/H side, the ’16’. It looked great after a matt clear coat of Alclad II and I was really happy with it. I like to finish off with a dusting of ground pastels to blend everything together, but for some reason it made the decal carrier film show up, just on that one though. It was invisible after the clear coat, I should’ve stopped there! 😭Posted 3 weeks ago
For those of a certain age…
I can’t see anything dodgy on that 109, it’s very nice.
I’m waiting on some paints – a) modern Russian armour and b) USAF Vietnam era aircraft.Posted 2 weeks ago
Given up on the T-34/85.
Russian SAM vehicle next up, plus a Hasegawa A-7D Corsair II to paint in 1/48 When the ‘nam paints arrive
Harry the Spider I remember the cartoon but had to google what it was called though.
Science Ninja Team Gatchaman
IIRC the little one spoke a bit funny.Posted 2 weeks ago
Hasegawa A-7D Corsair II to paint in 1/48 When the ‘nam paints arrive
Nice, I’ve got a 1/48 F105 to do in SEA scheme. I keep putting it off though as its bloody enormous, especially next to the WWI Albatross I’ve just restarted!
I’m after an F4E to do in Israeli colours if anyone sees one?Posted 2 weeks ago
I think Model Hobbies have an Italeri F4E in 1/48
Yeah, here you go : https://www.modelhobbies.co.uk/italeri-148-f-4e-phantom-ii–2770-88919-p.asp
Decals should be available aftermarket: https://www.scalemates.com/kits/skys-decals-48-007-israeli-f-4-phantoms–1109341#Posted 2 weeks ago
Next one up: Meng 1/35 Russian 9K37M1 BUK mobile SAM system. No interior so it should be quicker than the T-54 I did earlier…
1) working Torsion Bar suspension:
2) it’s big. About 30% longer than a T-34/85:
More to follow…Posted 2 weeks ago
BTW this is just the lower hull. Missile carrier/launcher sits on top of this in the same way that a turret would on a regular tank
The rear end:
I haven’t put the crew visor asssmbles in yet, will do those after the paint job
Next up – the tracks !
4x sprues of 56 links, plus pins to make working tracks
Posted 2 weeks ago
@johndrummer that mobile Sam system looks a beast, do you keep all of your completed kits or just the best ones, I’m running out of space.
I’m not going to pull the trigger on that Italeri F-4E, I’m going to hang on for the Zoukei Mura one that’s due out soon. The price is a killer though!
While I’m waiting for the Phantom I’ve resurrected a kit I started in 1995, the Eduard 1/48 Albatross DV. Its an absolute dog of a kit, the difference between this and their 109 I’ve just done is light years apart! I’m determined to finish it despite hating it, I’ll fight it to the end. It didn’t help that I decided to anneal the etched set in it with a blowtorch as I thought it would be quick, it certainly destroyed most of it quick and I had to buy another set (a different one though). The story so far…
I do keep them all, unless really poor (eg my 1/72 Airfix 190A). They do end up boxed up & in the shed after a while. That might not be happening to the later beasts though. Thing about tanks, even in 1/35, they do fit nicely in a shoebox, for the most part. I suspect the SAM thing will need a bigger box. E.g. a DrMartens box
That Albatross does look like it’ll make a fine model, even if you do have to wrestle it a bit. I’m not keen on anything with rigging so biplanes, WWI monoplanes & sailing ships are off my radar for now
The SAM system is actually coming together quite quickly, I think I’ve got the lower hull done in 3 nights. Thankfully no interior…Posted 2 weeks ago
Until I start on the tracks
I’m not keen on anything with rigging so biplanes, WWI monoplanes & sailing ships are off my radar for now
I’m not a fan of those kits you listed but I’m going through a bit of a masochistic phase at the moment, I bought the 1/48 Airfix Walrus last week!Posted 2 weeks ago
Some more WIP photos of my 1/35 SAM system:
Part finished track:
Individual links, held together with pins on one side & glue free. Mostly. Some didn’t hold on their own so had to be glued. A pain to build but very nice
Little jig to help build the tracks:
4 sprues of track links & joiner pins:
Yes, I know I haven’t plumbed the hoses in, and I haven’t finished the tracks or the crew compartment visors…Posted 1 week ago
Found a good mossy log for my 1/76 Panzer.
Posted 1 week ago
Nice. I can’t work at that scale, almostPosted 1 week ago
Cheap one from my LMS so that I could try Blutac Worm Technique.
Done and dusted in about 2 hours.
It normally hides in the kitchen until my wife finds it. Then I have to re-hide it.Posted 1 week ago
Going to keep the log and put a Typhoon flying over it.Posted 1 week ago
Well here’s another one. Airfix Whitley GR MkVII 1/72. Mostly went together very nicely – the exception being the bomb bay doors which are a rotten fit if you leave them closed and have no method of location at all if you want them open – hence a slightly bodgy 1/2 and 1/2 approach. Still haven’t got dipping transparencies sorted, not helped by getting overspray inside the turrets. <<sigh>>. Still – it looks OK from a normal distance.Posted 1 week ago
@countzero – thanks for the praise (we are not worthy etc). That’s mostly Airfix to blame for the Wellington interior and the moulding of the geodesic framework in the wings, with some help from Flory washes and some luck! (and a decent camera and a copy of Lightroom)
That is very nice JonEdwardsPosted 1 week ago
I’m on tracks at the moment. Wish me luckPosted 1 week ago
That is very good!
Such an odd looking plane.Posted 1 week ago
Tracks finished 🙂Posted 1 week ago
Once again my contribution to this thread is not a proper scale model, but a converted tank for a game of plastic toy soldiers. Specifically this is Gerti, an Imperial Guard armoured recovery vehicle that I converted from Warhammer 40,000 Chimera APC and Galvanic Servouhauler kits:
I have a Flickr album containing more photos, including WIP shots.
I think that I am less bothered about getting everything “right” when I paint gaming stuff than when it was taking me months to finish even the smallest scale model. It’s nice to actually be finishing things!Posted 1 week ago
Posted 1 day ago
I’m doing the Revel version but brush painting. Having trouble with the decals though. Soaked in DecalFix and brushed the paintwork first but on the engines they have bits round the edge that don’t stick and form ridges. Tips please!Posted 1 day ago
Did you give it a coat of gloss before doing the decals?Posted 1 day ago
That’s the only other thing I can think of
Yep. Gloss and and perhaps an application of diluted PVA.Posted 1 day ago
Hmm. Sometimes you have to be very careful with a very sharp bladePosted 1 day ago
No gloss, it’s a matt finish. Is there some clear varnish I should be using?Posted 1 day ago
No gloss, it’s a matt finish. Is there some clear varnish I should be using?
Yes. The gloss coat gives the decals something to purchase onto that’ll prevent air bubbles from causing the silvering that you often get by applying decals onto a matt surface. I swear by ordinary Pledge floor polish, followed by a second coat of pledge to seal the decals in. After that you apply a matt varnish to get the finish that you’re after.Posted 1 day ago
I use either Tamiya or Revell gloss clear acrylics as a base for decals & pin washes, then another coat on top, followed by a Matt or satin coat if it’s a military vehicle/aircraft/boat.
I’ve started using Ammo by MIG and Vallejo acrylics too. No gloss or Matt varnish from them yet.
Tamiya thinners tend to work with everything except Humbrol, for which you need their own brand. So I try to avoidPosted 22 hours ago
I use Alclad. It works for me.Posted 9 hours ago
Whilst on this subject… Does anyone use Pledge with an airbrush? If so, how do you clean the airbrush afterwards?Posted 4 hours ago
No, but if I did I’d first soak it in warm water , then clean it as normal with airbrush cleanerPosted 4 hours ago
Whilst on this subject… Does anyone use Pledge with an airbrush? If so, how do you clean the airbrush afterwards?
Yes. I usually thin with either Tamiya thinner or water, as Pledge will puddle and dry quickly. Afterwards, I disassemble my airbrush and soak in soapy water before reassembling and blasting it through with a tiny amount of Humbrol cellulose thinner.Posted 3 hours ago
If Pledge is approximately the same stuff as the Johnson’s Klear or Future everyone swore by a few years ago then ammonia is your full-on option for cleaning it up. Preferably in a form other than neat ammonia, unless you have a lot of filtering and ventilation on the go.Posted 3 minutes ago
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