- Christmas Airfix!
To flat spot my tyres I stand the finished model on sand paper and gently “brum” it like a kid with a toy car. I don’t make any noises though
Try the iron method, it bulges the sidewalls out a bit to give the impression of weight. Practice on an old wheel first as it’s easy to overdo it.Posted 8 months ago
I didn’t do all of them! Just some on the underside but most of the ones on the top and sides Black writing on a dark grey aircraft doesn’t show up too well so i left most of that type off. They are good decals to be fair and the bigger ones went down beautifully after liberal coatings of Tamiya MarkFit Strong.Posted 8 months ago
I’m going to put the FGR2 on my Christmas List.Posted 8 months ago
Someone has just done an FGR2 on Britmodeller.Posted 7 months ago
My FGR2 is coming along slowly due to work/cycling/drinking/wife commitments, but the kit’s engineering is generally very good – aside from the fit around the intakes and the lower fuselage/wing assembly interface that naturally follows a number of compound curves and will be an absolute pain to fill.
The plan is to paint it in XV408 circa 1991 colours – a fetching shade of blue which will be carefully post shaded.
The Phantom’s intakes are very complex in shape, which means that masking them is proving to be frustrating – the blue overlaps the inside of the intakes slightly but it’s difficult to get a consistent masked edge, plus one needs to be careful with two contrasting colours (dark blue and white on the intakes inside) which could bleed.
The auxiliary air vents on the underside have required some careful sanding to reduce their thickness – because the inside of the vents are a contrasting red against the blue, this will be tricky to get right.
@HTS – am genuinely very impressed by your bravery tackling that Victor (I had that Matchbox kit when I was a child), not to mention the work you’ve done on the intakes. You absolutely cannot have a Victor tanker without a Lightning nearby, I’m delighted that you’ve got that covered.
@Nostrils – I bloody hate scribing. It’s a PITA and never looks right when I do it! FWIW, I do have a scribing tool which helps, but the best approach is to polish the plastic to a sheen before you rescribe. A rough finish will deflect whatever scribing tool you use resulting in uneven engraved lines.Posted 6 months ago
How much better is a dedicated re-scribing tool compared to a scalpel blade?
If you’re using a Swan Morton scalpel you can make a scribing tool. Snap the tip off the blade with a pair of pliers, you only need to take off 1-2mm and it’ll leave a tiny sharp square edge. Turn the scalpel upside down and drag the tip backwards along the plastic. I’ve never tried it but I imagine a photoetch folding tool would be good for snapping the tip?Posted 6 months ago
Just wear some goggles when you’re snapping it though, sometimes bits of scalpel blade go flying about!
It is an Italeri. Cost about the same as yours. Got it on line from Jadlam.
Victor is coming on. The hemp is about finished, which is good because it has played havoc with the airbrush. Stuck a load of aerials on it. Done some work on the engine exhausts but they still need more attention. Looking forward to finishing the bugger if I have to be honest.Posted 6 months ago
is a square profile better than a bevelled profile for scribing?
A lot of that will depend upon surface prep. I’m rubbish at rescribing either with a scalpel or with an engraving tool. I’ve tried the Dymo tape thing, but the stuff I have isn’t thick enough to deflect a blade. My technique is clearly wrong. What works best for me is to sand and polish the plastic to a fine sheen and then rescribe. There’s fewer flaws in the surface finish to deflect the cutting edge.Posted 6 months ago
Need a break from the Victor as it is all fettling and no actual building, so I’ve started an Italeri F15E Strike Eagle.
Cockpit had next to no detail so I’ve jazzed it up a bit with some cut out photo copies of the Victor cockpit decals and added masking tape seat belts.
Will pick up the Victor again when the F15E is at the painting stage and do them in tandem.
The black paint on the cockpit fairings will get another coat, especially where I’ve got excess PVA from attaching my home-brew HUD.
Fit is a bit “Italeri”, but the kit was only a tenner so I’m not too upset.
The Strike Eagle is similar to the Victor K2 in that evolved from a sleek and beautiful aircraft into something covered in lumps and bumps. It looks very “business like”.Posted 5 months agoBaronVonP7Member
I’ve just found the Titanic!
It was at the back of a cupboard.
Revell 1:400 scale, as far as I can tell it’s untouched and looks like it’s got all the parts; comes with 4 unopened pots of paint and a pot of glue.
Free to anyone who can pick it up – Stafford or can meet at Cannock Chase, Birches Valley.
PM me.Posted 4 months ago
I’ve got a bit further with the P51! I lost interest in it for a while when I messed up the paint, but after being confined to home with two broken ribs all I could manage to do was watch TV and do some modelling. It’s almost done now, just needs weathering and some final assembly. I was pleased with the way the guns and drop tank plumbing turned out.Posted 4 months ago
£15ish delivered from Japan.
I suspect that I could be spending a fair bit with these guys as kits start at about a fiver and delivery is about £6.Posted 3 months agoJonEdwardsMember
So here’s a couple from me.Taken a while to get here – had major issues with the Martlet when the primer (Stynlrez) absolutely didn’t stick to the plastic and had to be peeled off to start again.
The Mustang is from the Aldi special deal, which came with the wrong decals. First attempt at a full NMF finish, and a play with pastels for the weathering.
(also different phothosting, so lets see what happens…!)
Posted 3 months ago
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