- Christmas Airfix!
To flat spot my tyres I stand the finished model on sand paper and gently “brum” it like a kid with a toy car. I don’t make any noises though
Try the iron method, it bulges the sidewalls out a bit to give the impression of weight. Practice on an old wheel first as it’s easy to overdo it.Posted 2 months ago
I didn’t do all of them! Just some on the underside but most of the ones on the top and sides Black writing on a dark grey aircraft doesn’t show up too well so i left most of that type off. They are good decals to be fair and the bigger ones went down beautifully after liberal coatings of Tamiya MarkFit Strong.Posted 2 months ago
I’m going to put the FGR2 on my Christmas List.Posted 2 months ago
Someone has just done an FGR2 on Britmodeller.Posted 1 month ago
My FGR2 is coming along slowly due to work/cycling/drinking/wife commitments, but the kit’s engineering is generally very good – aside from the fit around the intakes and the lower fuselage/wing assembly interface that naturally follows a number of compound curves and will be an absolute pain to fill.
The plan is to paint it in XV408 circa 1991 colours – a fetching shade of blue which will be carefully post shaded.
The Phantom’s intakes are very complex in shape, which means that masking them is proving to be frustrating – the blue overlaps the inside of the intakes slightly but it’s difficult to get a consistent masked edge, plus one needs to be careful with two contrasting colours (dark blue and white on the intakes inside) which could bleed.
The auxiliary air vents on the underside have required some careful sanding to reduce their thickness – because the inside of the vents are a contrasting red against the blue, this will be tricky to get right.
@HTS – am genuinely very impressed by your bravery tackling that Victor (I had that Matchbox kit when I was a child), not to mention the work you’ve done on the intakes. You absolutely cannot have a Victor tanker without a Lightning nearby, I’m delighted that you’ve got that covered.
@Nostrils – I bloody hate scribing. It’s a PITA and never looks right when I do it! FWIW, I do have a scribing tool which helps, but the best approach is to polish the plastic to a sheen before you rescribe. A rough finish will deflect whatever scribing tool you use resulting in uneven engraved lines.Posted 1 week ago
How much better is a dedicated re-scribing tool compared to a scalpel blade?
If you’re using a Swan Morton scalpel you can make a scribing tool. Snap the tip off the blade with a pair of pliers, you only need to take off 1-2mm and it’ll leave a tiny sharp square edge. Turn the scalpel upside down and drag the tip backwards along the plastic. I’ve never tried it but I imagine a photoetch folding tool would be good for snapping the tip?Posted 1 week ago
Just wear some goggles when you’re snapping it though, sometimes bits of scalpel blade go flying about!
It is an Italeri. Cost about the same as yours. Got it on line from Jadlam.
Victor is coming on. The hemp is about finished, which is good because it has played havoc with the airbrush. Stuck a load of aerials on it. Done some work on the engine exhausts but they still need more attention. Looking forward to finishing the bugger if I have to be honest.Posted 1 week ago
is a square profile better than a bevelled profile for scribing?
A lot of that will depend upon surface prep. I’m rubbish at rescribing either with a scalpel or with an engraving tool. I’ve tried the Dymo tape thing, but the stuff I have isn’t thick enough to deflect a blade. My technique is clearly wrong. What works best for me is to sand and polish the plastic to a fine sheen and then rescribe. There’s fewer flaws in the surface finish to deflect the cutting edge.Posted 1 week ago
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