Cannondale Trigger? Bargain

I have the Reverb Stealth 150mm (420mm) and have about 80mm still out of the large frame.

Stealth routing was fairly easy to fit, no bleeding involved with the Thingamajig, and the hose was easy to trim. Shock and crank had to be removed to route the cable but this was easy. A fair bit of water came out when I removed the crank(!) so took the opportunity to drill a 5mm hole at the bottom of the BB casing for a drain hole.

Only thing to mention is check the pressure as it needs to be 250psi and wasn’t out of the box, also don’t overtighten your seatpost clamp.

Other than all that it is absolutely the best thing I’ve ever bought.

crazmac I don’t understand if you are putting the dropper trigger on the left why are you ordering the RH version? I see you can buy the stealth for 209 at winstanleys. Looking at the pictures is the down routing of the cable included in the 380mm length? Would really like to here from someone who has actually fitted a stealth! What are picks?

A set of little hooks to pull hose out of the frame, having them meant I didn’t have to take the cranks off.

The RH remote sits on top off the bar. Or you can turn it upside down and put it under on the left. I feel like it would be more comfortable under the bar.

So I am unsure weather to buy right or left rockshox reverb stealth. There appears to be an internal cable exit on the right. So it seems logical to go for the right but the trigger for the back shock sits on the right handle bar. What do people suggest?

Buy the right hand model and mount it under the bars on the left handside

So I am unsure if I should buy a right or left rockshox reverb stealth. There appears to be an internal cable exit on the right. So it seems logical to go for the right but the trigger for the back shock sits on the right handle bar. What do people suggest?

The rear shock switch sits nicely under the bars on the left hand side. That is how I have mine set up. Although probably won’t work that way if you are running a front shifter.

I moved the rear shock lever to the left bar as it is reversible, and got a left reverb on there too as no front shifter. I bought a CTD remote for the forks on the right hand side.

Hi all. Just picked myself up one of these off ebay, seems a cracking idea.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Cable-Guy-Protector-for-Cannondale-Lefty-reliable-discreet-and-lightweight-/351331172037?var=&hash=item51ccf83ec5:m:mNjUF-1GQS4yteVixkfiMKA

Has anyone serviced the pivot bearings in an aluminium trigger yet? Is it difficult? any special tools required?

I did wonder about using one of the dual CTD remotes like on the Scotts for the front and rear shocks. But swapping out to the Pikes so that is out.

I have enough levers already, mostly I leave the forks in trail mode.

Looks like a great setup trickyd. Has anyone considered upgrading the front fork on the trigger 4. I’ve read about upgrading to the fit 2016 damper cartridge. I think it’s great as it is but it gives more damping options for those who like to fiddle.

Anyone tried running the 2 speed front shifter as a shock remot yet? Seems like a good idea as my dad remote can be quite stiff! I know you can supposedly use a grip shift, but I’m going 1×10 this weekend and thought I may as well have s pop with the x7 trigger….

Jonnytheleyther the idea of the cable holder is great, the reality is very different. Had one and it lasted a few weeks, now have a speed stuff neoprene Velcro wrapthing designed for DH forks to protect from cable rub and it’s a much better solution.

Just thinking of going 1×10 on my carbon 2, what chainring type do I need? Any suggestions? thinking of a 32t one and looked at absolute black, works, superstar and race face but just got confused.

Also heard getting the crank off is tough, any suggestions or tips?

Cheers

Liam

The cranks on my Carbon 2 were on really tight. It took loads of force to get the bolt to move, you will need more than a normal Allen key to remove them – but they do come off.

I think I have a 30t Works direct mount ring on mine. From memory you need the GXP version rather than the BB30 version.

Thanks Jason, I thought I read elsewhere on the thread that it was a GXP but I was confused because the current chainring say 104BCD? Am I just getting confused is there a GXP 104 BCD i thought they were two different things?

The best way to do it is to remove the spider that holds the chain rings in place. On the Sram cranks the spider is held on by three torq screws on the back. Then a direct mount chain ring fits in it’s place, so no need to worry about BCD.

So one of these : http://www.workscomponents.co.uk/works-components-sram-gxp-fitment-narrow-wide-spiderless-chainring-963-p.asp

Awesome thanks a lot for that, think I’ll go for the red one, cheers

Managed to install the reverb stealth in the trigger 4 last night.
I removed the remote on the reverb.
Removed the grommets at the bottom of the seat tube and the front of the down tube. I couldn’t get the grommet from under the shock.
Fed the hose down the seat tube and used a small Allen key to hook the hose and pull it out.
Used a pair of long nose pliers to push the hose into the grommet under the shock and fed it with the pliers until it reached the hole in the down tube. Again used the Allen key to fish out the hose.
Remember to put the grommets back on our like me you’ll be fishing for the hose a few more times.
I used this bleeding technique and it worked no bother. https://youtu.be/wlfFJuGFEkE
I bought the 31.6. 380mm 125mm drop version
I’m 5 foot 8 and use 180mm exposed seatpost at pull height.

Hey folks. I’ve been lurking in this thread for a bit. I’ve now just ordered the Trigger Carbon 2. Excited. I understand the tyres are great. What’s the latest consensus on replacements? Wildgrip R2?

Personal preference really but ive stuck some high roller 2 on mine and cant grumble.

I put some XR4’s on my Trigger 2

I have wild rock r2 on my trigger, great tyres, really impressed with them.

Good cycle today. Even took a Kom
Must be down to the new dropper

Cheers. I went ahead and ordered the wild gripr 2 advanced. 2.25 and 2.35.

I have the Michelin Wild Grip R2 Advanced in 2.25 and 2.35.

Brilliant tyres, changed the bike completely. Very sure footed.

I’m running purgatorys on mine. Feels slightly wrong running Specialized tyres on a Cannondale but they’re excellent. Had my 1st proper ride on mine today. Absolutely phenomenal bike but slightly annoyed that the crank arm managed to work its way loose. Tightened it back up so hoping it’s not knackered the interface. As someone else said earlier in the thread, worth checking ALL the bolts have been done up properly…..

I’m running Vittoria Barzos. I like them a lot.

Time for a new bottom bracket on my Trigger 4. First bike with a press fit 30. Any suggestions? Are ceramic BB worth the £?
Thanks in advance

Any chance of a wee how to with some pics when you get round to it fedor? I’ve never done one.
Thanks

My Trigger 2 Carbon arrived today. Very pleased. Spent a good while setting it up and fixing a leaking front brake so have only ridden it to the end of the street and back. But it feels awesome and responsive. Still waiting on tyres. And the front brake seems like it could use another bleed. Looking forwards to the weekend!

Anyone using a mudguard to keep crap off their face. I’d prefer something low profile like the enduro guard, but that won’t work with a lefty. Don’t really want a Moto style guard. Anyone using a crud catcher under frame and finding it effective?

I’m using one of these. No use for a lefty though. Works well and cheap. Mucky Nutz Face Front Fender – Black/Blue https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00PKBQGX4/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_kt13wb0QG1R92

Yeah, I have the EnduroGuard on my Superlight – exactly the same design.Pitty they haven’t come up with something similar that’s Lefty friendly.

Thought I’d give this a punt from Decathlon. Looks good and works.

http://www.decathlon.co.uk/flash-mtb-front-mudguard-bk-id_8327776.html