I still subscribe to Bike* and Dirt Rag.
Bike has always had the best writing & photography, IMO. Dirt Rag has had some great art work (and beer reviews!) over the years, too.
(*my absolute favourite mags are old issues of Bike circa 1996/97/98 – the Singletrack Special, The Dark Issue, The Joy of Dirt, etc – I regard ’em in pretty much the same way I regard my favourite books, and they get read again and again…).