Anyone ridden the Mojo Nicolai yet?
I’ve got a 160f/150r 29er geometron, and this is something that worried me. Yes, it is overkill for a lot of the Surrey hills, but not in a way to hold you back. I find it fine on the more mellow trails, as long as your pushing on. I find the bike a bit uninspiring when coasting along, it covers the ground quickly and nicely, it’s just a bit, meh. As soon as you start too push, it comes alive, and is amazing. I’ve found it doesn’t really matter on the trail, as long as your trying to go fast, it’s simple brilliant.Posted 5 months ago
The podge, that is the shorter travel version!
Gotama, have you thought making the rear even more progressive to limit travel to 100-100mm and doing the same at the front with 140mm travel but progressivity limiting to 120mm?Posted 5 months ago
You’ll never make a GeoMetron twitchy of course, it goes against the basis of design.
I’m with uselesshippy on the mild trail thing but we’re all different, if being on the edge of control as opposed to the edge of grip but in control is your thing then the GeoMetron may not be the bike. Even on flat trails you can go into corners far too fast and drift it or just slide the back about, it’s just less likely to go full widow maker on you
Just really giving the Geometron some thought, most likely the G13 130/140mm version. I’m 6ft2 with short legs and long torso/arms. Can’t quite decide how long to go.
Even the ‘smallest’ G13 would have a reach figure similar to my current ‘large’ transition…..
Anyone give me some feedback either on your height and what size you went for or how you decided what length to go for?Posted 5 months ago
Groundskeeperwilly you will want at least a Longest.
An XL would be the automatic size choice based on height and I’d recommend trying both but Ongest would work well,
I ride a Longest at 5’11”. A former singletrack rster also rides one at 5’8″ but that is stretching it and ideally he’d prefer a lower ST.Posted 5 months ago
Another friend is happy on an XL at 6′
If you order a G16 with fork and shock without doing the £200 demo day, do you get off the shelf suspension? Or can you still get a specific set up for the kind of riding you intend to do? Obviously, just as a starting point for further refinement but not starting from scratch with production suspension.
In the past I’ve been pretty disappointed with the Fox stuff on new bikes until they’ve been to Mojo to be made more supportive.Posted 5 months ago
I bought a frame, shock and fork and they’ve helped me with setup and re valved my fork.Posted 5 months ago
Didn’t do a test day as such but did get to try one out with Paul.
The service I’ve received so far has been just brilliant.
nothing seems too much trouble for them when it comes to getting the bike right for you.
30-35mm stem typically, occassionally up to 40mm
That looks lovely Stu, seen it on Instabang. Super glad she gets the confidence. Exactly what has happened with my daughter.
And yes, buying any combination beyond just a frame gets you the Mojo tune of your choice for the suspendy parts and they will continue to help with setup as and when you need it (within reason of course!)Posted 5 months ago
G16 Longest. Frame, fork, shock and transfer post. In shiny raw alloy.
I still have to send him my particulars to have the bouncy bits correctly tuned but it’s bought and paid for.
I’ve been riding mountain bikes for 20 years and I’ve never had a proper, all new, custom build. If I hadn’t accidentally crash landed back in the bike industry last year then I couldn’t afford any of it so I’m gonna grab it while I can.
Oh arse! I forgot to ask if they had any of those fancy Kashima top caps in stock…Posted 5 months ago
Good lady wife tested the daughters NotSoLong at the weekend. loved it. She’s 5′ tall. Felt very confident, especially over the front. First time I’ve seen her brave enough to properly commit to the front in loose corners.
Length was never mentioned.
It’s been a while since she has ridden due to injury.
She then went on her current bike (Knolly Warden( which is pretty on trend and not so short at that end of the spectrum as a Small (580mm ETT, 408mm reach approx). Feedback was it felt kinda high and she was much less confident over the front and felt less stable going into corners. This was rapidly followed by doe eyes and the request to get the wallet out..
This is both good and bad. The good bit is the NotSoLong is clearly good for someone of 5′. Target size is from 4’10 or so up to 5’5″.
The bad is obviously regarding the wallet.
Looks like I’ll be putting a minty Warden up for sale soon..Posted 5 months ago
I do LAT, 150mm dropper fitted with 1.5″ of exposed post. As mentioned I designed it to be able to work with people from 4’10 with a 100mm dropper.
Running 155mm cranks here (we can also source 150mm from a certain well known British brand)
From ground height is 92cm
From centre of pedal crank 73cm – 76cm (to front of saddle – to centre of saddle intersect with centre of seatpost i.e. longest measurement)
Seatpost has 6cm to top of collar, about 3.75cm to bottom of collar (LEV, fairly tall collar compared to say a Transfer)
If you want more specifics just PM me, I have the drawings etc.
Saddle upPosted 5 months ago
[url=https://flic.kr/p/W2cp5R]IMG_1088[/url] by Phil, on Flickr
Well, here we go….
So glad I went for raw instead of black. I love black bikes but this is so shiny in the flesh and it shows all the details.
I’m not one to gush about bikes but now that I’ve got it, I’m pretty excited about it. It’s a beautiful bit of machinery and it’s already got about 20 different sets of finger prints all over it. All those big, fat welds and machined bits had everyone touching, poking and rubbing it before I could get it stashed.
That’s it for now. A big box of Hope goodies should land tomorrow and it’ll be bike shaped tomorrow night. I might have to wait for pay day for bars, stem, saddle, drivetrain etc…
I’ve been riding a steel hardtail for 4 years I am literally gagging to smash through some rock gardens.Posted 5 months ago
I’ve bought myself an extra longest g13 frame! It’s all built but I have couple of questions for the collective wisdom.
It’s a raw frame and arrived lovely and shiny. After building it it has started to discolour. Any hints on how to keep it shiny?
It came without a shock so I’ve bought a Cane Creek double barrel air climb switch. Has anyone used one on a geometron any Base tunes you would care to share?
Cheers all!Posted 5 months ago
Mine is brand new and didn’t come with any cleaning products. I wasn’t expecting any. I bought raw because I was thinking if it looks like crap in a years time I’ll pay for a decent paint job.
Would one of the green kitchen pads be OK?
No! I learned this lesson as a toung man when I destroyed an Azonic Shorty stem. I’m still upset by that.Posted 5 months agoGotamaMember
Martin – I suspect yours has been buffed like mad to get it ready for sale. You’ll never keep it that way so I’d just let it dull slightly. Different parts of the frame will look slightly different shades of alu, some shinier, others duller for want of a better way of describing it. That said, by discolour what do you mean, its not going green is it?!
But mine did come with the dark red scouring pad. Sharkattack – you’ve missed out 😀
Oh and a tip is to put some of the rubber 3M tape you use for quietening down chainstays under the cable clamps on the downtube. It stops the cables moving and rubbing the bare alu.Posted 5 months ago
Thanks! I’ll avoid the green pads then 🙂
It’s not going green. Just not super shiny. I have a cannondale Road frame i thought was raw, clearly it’s just painted silver.
I’ve got some 3m helicopter tape comming and I was planning on using that to avoid cable rub. I do love a quiet bike so I might give the rubber tape ago.
Yep, off ebay last week.Posted 5 months ago
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