Anyone had a Syncros freehub?

Hey Chaps,

I’ve got a brand new Syncros wheelset, and within 15 minutes of riding the freehub failed completely.

Has anyone had similar issues with Syncros hubs? Or, the opposite, where they’ve been bombproof?

It’s being warrantied, and deciding whether or not I’m going to keep the rims and fit a Hope or DT Swiss hub to replace it.

Cheers!

Ricks

Syncros wheels on a disc road bike here, and they’ve been great. I’m no expert, but am told Syncros tend to use DT Swiss freehub? I serviced mine following YouTube instructions for DT Swiss hubs…

No issue with mine for the 1000 miles I used it before I swapped out the wheelset. they’re hanging up in the garage awaiting me to upgrade the frame on my commuter bike then they’ll be pressed into action again. though when I did take the cassette off I did notice the sprockets had dug into the cassette body splined…I’ve never had that before on any bike road or MTB…didn’t seem to cause any issues in use so probably not an issue.

What way did it fail?

First non DTswiss freehub on my synchros Revelstoke 1.0. 6 pawl, sounds great and works great.
Most cheaper synchros hubs are 3pawl dt aren’t they?

The wheels came on a £5k Scott Spark, so you’d expect them to be decentish. They’re the one level below the carbon hoops.

The freehub doesn’t engage the pawls, so it just moves freely back and forth.

Pretty sure I am racking up the miles on exactly the same wheels, no problems.

2016? Saw a dealer recall/repair on the 3 pawl hubs on the genius… 710 level bikes were certainly affected.
The drive ring was faulty and resulted in a number of stripped freehubs so a wider drive ring replacement was done .

I’ve a buddy running 3pawl hubs in synchros wheels who’s been through a couple of sets of pawls already. He’s pushing 34;42 as his granny so pushing plenty of power through his hub.

If it is dt hub, you can pop the cassette off and inspect. Iirc the syncros hub has a threaded end cap but still a 370 spec freehub so may not be quite as easy to inspect.
Pawls could be broken, drive ring stripped or even just simply stuck.
Inspection is key to diagnose.

Iirc the syncros hub has a threaded end cap but still a 370 spec freehub so may not be quite as easy to inspect.
Pawls could be broken, drive ring stripped or even just simply stuck.
Inspection is key to diagnose.

Yep, spot on.

The end caps are threaded, onto an 11mm hex. Stupid design. I have a more than fully stocked bike workshop, and no 11mm hex.

It’s going back for warranty, but I’ll invest in an 11mm hex for the future.

The hub is a 2019 one too.

Some were formula re badged, Mine didn’t last long new axel and bearings after the third ride out, new hub after 7 months. Replaced with a DT 350 as the discs are centerlock and hope dont do a CL hub. Not impressed.

I replaced the pawls and drive ring on a set of XR2.0’s from a scale 910, it took quite a googling to find the ring and a Dremel and some fettling to remove the old ring, but they’ve been fine since.
IIRC the total cost of parts was about £15 but it was a labour intensive, so financially viable if you’re doing it yourself, probably not worth it if you’re planning to get your LBS to do it.

A bit of research, and reaching out to Syncros and Scott has yielded that they are Formula TD 14811 hubs.

They are pawl and spring designs.

This is the culprit: