The High Atlas is a lovely region for trekking/climbing – i went 15 years ago with my mate. Not on an organised trip with a firm, but planned it ourselves. We wwnt in April and the weather was great – like meehaja says, below the snow line was a lovely temperature. Toubkal required crampons and axes, and the snow was pretty deep in places. We were not ‘ice climbing’ as such, just a ‘trek in the snow’ 🙂
We got a grain truck – that was an experience in its self, sat ontop of tonnes of grain as the truck winds along the mountain roads – from the taxi rank in Marakesh all the way up to a village called Imlil. Here were hired a guide and donkeys to carry our kit upto the bivvy station at Toubkal. We were up and down Toubkal in a day from this base station – getting up stupid early. We stayed in a bunk house in Imlil for a night on return.
From Imlil we trekked across to Setti-Fatma – took about 3 days i think. There was no need for a guide here, we carried our own kit and followed the map.
Basically we just walked into the villages and were immediately surrounded by kids who would take us to a bunk house (usually a stable). The family would then cook an amazing tajine, served with bread and berber whiskey (not thw whiskey we know). For a few dirham you get fed and watered and kip on the floor. The Berbers were really friendly and helpful.
From Setti-Fatma we splashed out on a taxi to get back to Marakesh, but it was still dirt cheap.