Home Forums Bike Forum 2 sets of pivot bearings in 10 months/ 1060 miles – Fair?

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  • 2 sets of pivot bearings in 10 months/ 1060 miles – Fair?
  • skydragon
    Free Member

    The main suspension pivot bearings (the one’s beside the bottom bracket) have gone again on my bike.

    The bikes a Canyon Spectral AL and lives a fairly hard life subjected every week, normally a few times each week, to Calderdale’s finest gritty mud/crap/water/snow/ice.

    I replaced these bearings back in November and on a ride today noticed today a load of play, meaning I’ll have to replace them again.

    It’s a pain, but is it fair to expect to get more than circa 600 off-road miles between bearings, given the conditions?? (I don’t power wash the bike and have cut down on washing the bike since the last bearings, to see if that helped extend their life…it hasn’t)

    cynic-al
    Free Member

    Fair I’d say.

    Pre grease them next time.

    kevduckworth
    Full Member

    Any multi-link suspension seems to eat bearings in hard use. Be it a Santa Cruz, Giant, Mondraker or whatever.
    I’m planning a lot of hard riding this year (given up the 9-5) so have gone with a single pivot Empire for this very reason.

    trail_rat
    Free Member

    seen a santa cruz blur xc wiped out in 24 hours from leaving the shop……ok the forks and drive train were totaled too …. but riding in the mud and jet washing every couple hours will do that.

    cultsdave
    Free Member

    Similar issues with my bike too but way less than 600 miles
    http://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/bearing-trouble

    Northwind
    Full Member

    Maybe fair, but a bit low- mine doesn’t do anything clever but gets more than that from a set. Are you using decent quality bearings?

    bigjim
    Full Member

    more than fair I’d say, those bearings have a crappy life down there. Not sure if spectral have the same plain bearing as the nerve, but I got the feeling regular dismantling and cleaning could make them last a bit longer, though it is pita. canyon seem to spec greasable ones, but provide self lubricating replacements, or the other way round, I forget now.

    Scienceofficer
    Free Member

    Their mode of failure should give you a steer on this. My money is on water penetration and wear accelerated by corrosion of the bearing surfaces, in which case, look to charging the bearing with more grease than it needs or go stainless.

    roverpig
    Full Member

    Not a lot of help I know, but I pulled the bearings on my Five at the weekend for a bit of PM. Despite 18 months of riding once or twice a week in all weathers up here in the North East of Scotland I was pleasantly surprised to find that they were as good as new. Maybe our sandy/peaty crap isn’t as tough on bearings as your gritty muddy crap, but I’d certainly be a bit miffed if they were failing after only 600 odd miles.

    steveh
    Full Member

    What sort of bearings did you refit? branded ones, chinese ebay specials? Not all bearings are made equal and the difference in life between them all can be huge.

    cakefacesmallblock
    Full Member

    Although I though only the main pivot ones, most of the original bearings in my Giant had failed when I disassembled it after 18 months of very light use.
    I replaced them all with Katec ones and put a BETD top shock bush it whilst I was at it, as the original had become a bit sloppy.
    Five years on and the bike has done at least 5000 more much harsher miles in that time, the shock bush has been replaced again, but the bearings are still ok. Perhaps I’ve been lucky.
    Winters round here are a gloop fest too.
    EDIT.
    Don’t always clean my bike straight after a ride and adopt a hot water, bucket and brush approach when I do, just using the hose under low pressure to rinse it off.
    Quick gentle squirt over with GT85 ( heaven forbid ) , cover brakes with a bag while doing it, just to push out excess water, go make a brew, back to bike wipe off all the excess, lube chain, drop of fork oil round wiper seals on shock n fork, cycle suspension, wipe off excess oil from stantions. Lock bike up. Go and have tea.

    smatkins1
    Full Member

    Over tightening?

    Not pressed in straight?

    Damaged pressing in with wrong tool?

    Play in one of the other pivots from worn bearings or loose?

    Continuing to ride with worn shock bushings?

    A gypsy curse?

    skydragon
    Free Member

    Thanks for the feedback chaps.

    Just disassembled and refitted a pair of new main pivot bearings. I had a set of bearings Canyon sent me as replacements a few months back. I took the bearing seal off one side of the new bearings to pack them with grease, but they were already pre-loaded, I don’t know if the last replacement bearings were greased however. Wasn’t too bad a job.

    The old bearing on the drive side was completely totalled, to the point it was difficult to turn by hand.

    Back end is now nice and tight again. Although i think I will strip the whole back end and replace all the bearings when spring is over.

    welshfarmer
    Full Member

    Seems about the same as the original ones on my Grapil. I replaced them with Enduro-max full contact bearings which are better designed for pivots (where the bearing is never really rotated through 360 degrees) than the standard bearings fitted from the factory.

    welshfarmer
    Full Member

    Some info about the MAX type bearings

    Enduro Max Type Rubber Sealed Deep Groove Ball Bearings: These types are manufactured with rubber seals inserted into the outer raceway and in contact with the inner race providing protection against the ingress of moisture, dust and other foreign matter and serve to retain the pre-filled grease in the bearing.

    MAX Type bearings have no cage and a filling slot for the balls. MAX stands for Maximum Balls possible in the bearing which is achieved by using the filling slot to insert the balls, the balls are effectively next to each other.

    They generally have a 35% more load capacity than caged bearings. MAX bearings do not spin as smoothly as the cage bearings and should in general be used for suspension pivots or problem areas where standard bearings wear out prematurely.

    Static Load capacities are limits well before deformation of the bearing and are conservative.

    Always install bearings by pressing on the outer race only into a housing with a fixture that is a close match to its diameter, never knock bearings into their housings with a hammer – premature bearing failure will occur from knocking bearings into housings. With max type bearings in application like suspension pivots try to position the filling slot at 90 degrees to the loading direction where practical.

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