Home Forums Bike Forum 1×10 – What cranks are you using?

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  • 1×10 – What cranks are you using?
  • gringo
    Full Member

    First of all, apologies if these are silly questions – I have searched but I’m getting seriously confused.

    I’d like to go with a 1×10 setup on my Dialled Alpine but am confused about exactly what I need. What cranks are you all using? Can you use a triple/double with some of the chain rings removed or is it better to use something specific – such as http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/race-face-ride-narrow-wide-single-chainset/rp-prod113370.

    Can I install a bashguard on a single front chainring? If so, what kind of thing should I be looking at?

    Also, what kind of rear mech should I use? I’ll most likely run an 11-36 cassette.

    If anyone wants to put together a shopping list for what i’d need, that would be really appreciated!

    Thanks
    Glenn

    matther01
    Free Member

    I’ve got XT and SLX on my set ups (SLX is best cost wise) and triple for the better chainline (plus new SLX double tabs rub on some single NW rings below 34t).

    Clutch mech is a must for me and SLX is a middle ground for performance v cost (after just writing off a new XT mech on its maiden voyage!). Short or medium cage depending on the NW ring up front with 11-36.

    Shifter wise XT…but Saint if you have the money.

    Recommend a new cassette and chain.

    Take your pic of NW front rings…but I like the Works components…made in the UK.

    gringo
    Full Member

    So you’d buy a triple, discard the inner and outer rings then install a NW front ring?

    I’d most likely go for a 32 NW ring – would that equal a short cage rear mech?

    mcnultycop
    Full Member

    What cranks are you running now? There isn’t usually any need to buy anything specific, just bang a NW on the middle of a triple.

    You probably need a clutch mech, I run Zee on both my bikes.

    I run a bash on my HT with a single ring, but it is completely unnecessary. I’ll take it off when I get round.

    I’d go for an XT cassette and KMC chain.

    gringo
    Full Member

    I’m not running any cranks at the moment – it’s a new build to me so I need to buy some.

    Point taken on the bash, I did wonder that myself.

    wobbliscott
    Free Member

    I got a used SRAM X9 discarded the crank spider and used a Wolftooth direct mount N/W chainring. I dried using a double with bash guard on the outer ring position, but it never worked properly and I struggled getting a chainring of the size I wanted at the inner BCD. Works great.

    kerbdog
    Free Member

    Just converted my Spesh Enduro to 1×10 on Wednesday.
    i used an old hollowtech II XT triple chainset removing the rings and replacing them with a Blackspire 30T,not sure if all narrow wide chain rings have threaded bolt holes but it was a straight swop over for the existing chain ring bolts.
    XT 11-36 cassette
    XT shadow plus medium cage rear derailleur
    XT 10spd shifter

    Seems to work fine messing around out the front of the house,wont get to test it out properly until Saturday. 🙂

    mcnultycop
    Full Member

    XT cranks were already on my FS, Deore cranks on my HT. Deore ones were a great investment, cost £50ish and sold the chainrings for £28ish.

    elliott-20
    Free Member

    XT crank, Wolf Tooth ring and a some chain ring bolt spacers to stop the chain fouling on the crank spider. KMC chain, Saint shifter and mech. Perfect.

    gringo
    Full Member

    So I could buy this – SLX Triple – take the 3 rings off, fit one of these NW chain ring and all should be ok?

    Northwind
    Full Member

    I’m using 2 sets of old scabby XTR- easy to pick up used chainsets with worn rings as the price of replacement rings often makes it more economic to just buy a whole new crank.

    skinnyboy
    Free Member

    Truvativ Hussefelts with Howitzer BB. Beefy is an understatement.

    coolhandluke
    Free Member

    Using my XT cranks with a Hope 30t WN ring and hope bash but the bolt things only make it half way through the chain ring….any advice on that?

    Also, SRAM cassette, hope 40trex, SRAM x9 clutch rear mech.

    No issues with chain coming off despite me trying my best at Antur Stiniog last week.

    vonplatz
    Free Member

    If you are building from new then you could consider Race Face cinch system. This would allow you to mount a single with perfect chain line and no possibility of the chain fowling the tabs of the cranks. You could also install a spider and go double or triple as needs be at a later date. It’s available on the Next sl cranks which are incredibly spendy and the Turbines which are not cheap either.

    If you would rather spend less then I would go for a SLX triple.

    Scamper
    Free Member

    Wouldn’t using the ‘old’ 9 speed slx 660/665 cranks stop any fowling and make it easier to run abash if you wanted?

    bitasuite
    Free Member

    Hi all, first post here.

    I fitted a Hope NW ring to an SLX chainset last night to go 1×10. Am I going to need a clutch mech?

    When I reinstalled the non-driveside crank arm and there wasn’t the (not sure if this is the right name) locking pin, so I just did up the allen bolts nice and tight. Will this be OK?

    skellnonch
    Free Member

    bitasuite – Member
    When I reinstalled the non-driveside crank arm and there wasn’t the (not sure if this is the right name) locking pin, so I just did up the allen bolts nice and tight. Will this be OK?

    Snapped the pin off once on a set of cranks, they soldiered on for a long while like that and I didn’t die…

    here’s my 1 x 10, old triple SLX

    gringo
    Full Member

    Cheers for all of the responses. So it looks like I need to buy myself a triple and a nw chain ring.

    Can anyone answer my question about which type of rear mech I’d need? 32 tooth chain ring so a short cage or medium cage?

    ryderredman
    Free Member

    I bought an SLX groupset (individually) the drivetrain parts are awesome although I went for the XT cassette due to it having an ali body. If I was to buy again though I wouldn’t go for the SLX shifter again, I came from using an XTR shifter and it just feels crap.

    ska-49
    Free Member

    1×10 on the following;
    SLX double
    XT triple
    X7 double
    Deore triple

    I’ve never noticed any issue with shifting between any of them.

    nemesis
    Free Member

    Can anyone answer my question about which type of rear mech I’d need? 32 tooth chain ring so a short cage or medium cage?

    The chainring size is irrelevant, it’s about the range of the cassette.

    If you have an 11-36 on a 1x setup, a short cage (eg Zee) is fine. If you plan to run a 40+ sized cassette now or in the future (on 1x) you’d be better getting a medium cage.

    gringo
    Full Member

    Cheers nemesis, much appreciated.

    bitasuite
    Free Member

    Snapped the pin off once on a set of cranks, they soldiered on for a long while like that and I didn’t die…

    Thanks skell.

    cheers_drive
    Full Member

    Just don’t buy one of the new Shimano ‘compact triple’ with a 30T middle ring as no one makes narrow wide rings or bashguards to suit the 96BCD.
    Why Shimano, WHY!!!!!!!!!

    egb81
    Free Member

    Just don’t buy one of the new Shimano ‘compact triple’ with a 30T middle ring as no one makes narrow wide rings or bashguards to suit the 96BCD.
    Why Shimano, WHY!!!!!!!!!

    I made the exact same mistake as the BCD wasn’t listed on Rose website. Avoid the M672 cranks like the plague.

    I’m running an SLX M670 with Race Face 32t NW ring, SRAM 12:36 cassette, XT Shadow Plus med cage mech and XT Shifter.

    chrishc777
    Free Member

    SLX M670 here, 36t NW with bash

    dudeofdoom
    Full Member

    I’m running a raceface turbine single nw which was a tad pricey… I’d originally ordered a raceface ride nw but it would arrive in time for my holiday so emergency overspend.

    The ride was 100squid which I thought was fair enough for a new crank ,bottom bracket, shims lube and genuine raceface nw ring …

    jonnym92
    Full Member

    Running an SLX dual with an On-One 34T NW ring, no bash. All good so far!

    deadkenny
    Free Member

    Personally on a new build I’d go for cranks with a 1x spider or a replaceable spider that you can put a 1x spider on or get a chainring with integrated spider.

    A triple works if you’re after a cheap option or want to reuse some cranks lying around. I did that initially on going 1x. I had to file down stuff to get a single ring to fit in the middle (was an FSA DH ring, not narrow wide), that was on old Truvatv GXP cranks.

    Now I’ve got X0 cranks on both bikes. One was a 2x and I converted it to 1x by buying a 1x spider. The other was a 1x crank anyway. Both running Works Components narrow/wide chainrings and paired with Type 2 mechs. Medium cage on the full sus and short on the hart tail.

    I think many of the SRAM GXP cranks have replaceable spiders. Not sure on other brands. Don’t have to go with replaceable spider, but it’s just more flexible. In my opinion.

    Oh, and the triple does give you the option of running a bash ring. I don’t bother now as there’s no big ring teeth to grind on rocks and the chain is protecting the single ring, in a way. Chain drop is being dealt with by the narrow wide and better with a clutch.

    And don’t get a double. Chain line will never be right for a single conversion. Unless the double has a replaceable spider 😉

    poah
    Free Member

    165mm XT triple

    fitnessischeating
    Free Member

    personally, if I was convinced i wanted to go 1* I would get specific 1* cranks

    I would be looking at ZEE, or saint….

    however if I felt I may want to change to a double set up in the future, I would be (and just have) getting a SLX triple, thereby allowing me to run as 1* using the middle ring position, or go double/bash by replacing the outer ring with a bash

    hatter
    Full Member

    I’m running XTR Shadow+ mech, XTR shifter with 11-36 cassette and a 32t Gamut TTr narrow/wide ring.

    These are coupled to significantly less tarty SLX triple cranks, they’re stiff, they don’t creak, they’re not stupidly heavy the BB’s last for ages they just work, much as they stick out like a sore thumb amongst the bling but I just can’t bring myself to take them off.

    bigrich
    Full Member

    zee. xt quality, metal inserts in the thread, and I run the dh width to help my stance, which is good for the 1×10 stomp thats required at times.

    cookeaa
    Full Member

    https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3852/14921308331_bff2a857ab_o.jpg

    I’m using a Hone M600 with a Ringmaster on my HT

    and an old XT M760 on the DH bike with a “vectoix”

    Both are probably “Ancient” Cranks by most people’s estimation, but being 104 BCD will happily take a NW, there’s not been that many technological leaps made with cranks in the last ten years really… bolt a ring on and off you go

    There will almost certainly be a N/W ring to suit your current cranks OP, Betcha!

    Clutch mech is also a good idea, again SRAM (“Type 2”) or Shimano (“Shadow Plus”) should work if you currently have a 10 speed shifter from either of them…

    Don’t go buying lots of parts you don’t need, fit whatever is compatable with your current set of parts.

    gringo
    Full Member

    So I’ve just purchased an SLX triple – can I use the bolts that come with it to attach the NW chain ring or do I need something else?

    wiggles
    Free Member

    You will need shorter bolts.

    cp
    Full Member

    You’ll need single chainring bolts, a fiver from Evans for steel I.D. ones, ,ore for ALU.

    gringo
    Full Member

    Cheers guys

    happybiker
    Free Member

    From a performance point of view Shimano triple and any nw ring will work. I’ve always liked their cranks. From a bling perspective I like cranks with removable spiders so you can fit spiderless nw rings. I’ve got a Middleburn x-type with a Wolf Tooth ring from the US and if I had to buy another I’d look at SRAM with a removable spider and fit a single ring.

    nedrapier
    Full Member

    Is it possible to get spacers to push the chainring in by a couple of mm?

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