Anyone ridden the Mojo Nicolai yet?

The podge, haha. It isa 29er GeoMetron!
t's as close to the geometry of the 27.5 version as makes practical sense. Chainstays slightly longer, rear travel the same, leverage curves the same, front travel slightly less (160mm) to maintain sensible front end heights (same as the 27.5) slightly less reach, but imperceptible, same trail achieved by more offset on 29er, angles & bb heights the same, so slacker than published anywhere

same trail achieved by more offset

I'd better get my saving shoes on as that geo with those wheels and a gearbox is frightenly close to my ideal bike

The reason 29ers need less offset than thought is because 27.5 bikes are tending to be as slack or slacker than the 26 bikes that preceded them, so the trail figure is much greater than the 26 bikes and than you're getting with most 29ers due to their steeper head angle and greater offset.

Basically a 29" wheel isn't sufficiently larger than a 27.5 to justify such a difference in head angle, whilst the difference between 29 and 26 did make the numbers add up.

I had a day with CP and Chainline at the demo day at the Forrest of Dean and rode the Mojo geometron Medium (longer) I am 5'10, it was outrageous, for my height going from a 442 reach to 502 was staggeringly good. The reach is created by steep seat geometry, at my height it pushes the front of the bike 40 mm forward, but cockpit remains same size. Coupled with a slack 62 head angle, it flies downhill giving huge confidence. Uphill no problem as the long front centre and the steep seat angle combat any front end wandering.
And Yes you can wheelie it and manual it !! Kids can even manual beach cruisers, so its probably more technique than bike geometry!!
Until you ride one, to understand the combination of all the features, you can spend as much time on the web as you like, BUT it will not give you the full flavour of this bike!!

Chainline - more offset on 29er

chiefgrooveguru - 29ers need less offset

I'm confused

To me there are 2 issues with the £200 demo.

1. Why do you need a mechaninc for a demo, is it really that sensitive to set up. If it is are you going to need a mechanic to reset it every time the seasons change and your body and kit weight changes.

2. Presumably the uplift is because it is a downhill bike and excels in that department, but its supposed to be an all mountain / enduro bike so should be capable of going uphill and cope with tight twisty singletrack, not just purpose built downhill tracks.

I must admit Im a bit skeptical about the whole bike. If that much length was the answer then why arent the pro DH riders on bikes that long?

More offset on a 29 fork reduces the trail figure to speed up the steering for a given head angle hence why offset typically increases on forks as they go from 26" to 27.5 (typically 42-44mm) to 29" wheels (typically 46-51mm) unless you have a Jones (I do) where 55mm is employed to speed things up further, or on the slacker plus model 85mm to counteract the 67.5 HA on that.

Having said that not everyone prefers more offset and steering is affected by bar width and stem length

I am using a short offset fork on my Geometron with a 26" fork crown/upper on 27.5 lowers. And a 30mm stem. Typically 35mm stem is used with the standard 27.5 offset fork on a Geometron depending on user preference.

I used a 46mm Offset fork on my 65.5deg 29er Ion 15 as I preferred the steering to the 51mm (close to the Gary a fisher G2 geo.)

chrismac - Member

1. Why do you need a mechaninc for a demo, is it really that sensitive to set up. If it is are you going to need a mechanic to reset it every time the seasons change and your body and kit weight changes.

It's pretty steep but if the bike rides differently to what you're used to, getting it set up right yourself on a demo day could be hard. And the last thing he needs is people screwing up the setup then slating it. Quite a few demos I've done have been ruined by some defect or inability to get the bike to work as it should. (Orange and their cheap shit tyres come to mind)

TBH I think it's possibly also a canny bit of marketing but, there's some point to it imo, I'm not bad at spanners but when I hop on a very different bike it takes me a while to get it working.

2. Presumably the uplift is because it is a downhill bike and excels in that department, but its supposed to be an all mountain / enduro bike so should be capable of going uphill and cope with tight twisty singletrack, not just purpose built downhill tracks.

BPW isn't really that sort of venue. There's not much really twisty (probably a design decision, stravaists would ruin anything like that) but it's very varied and I reckon best on a big #enduro bike not a dh bike. I can't think of many better places to test a big bike like this, innerleithen would be better but doesn't quite have the variety... Pila or La Thuile 😆

So podge no need to be confused.

To reach the same trail figure, IF that is what is desired, more offset is required with bigger wheels. What Chris's experiments show, as this whole bike does, is the sum of the angles/parts is far more important than focussing on one.

In the old days 29ers had steeper head angles to achieve the same effect but with other disadvantages hence why the industry has arrived at different offsets.

Chris gives customers the options to change the offset. However I'm not sure he can do that with the 29 if using a 36 fork. It's possible on the 27.5 because the 26" fork uppers can be used.

Chrismac, see different posts about the reasoning behind the test day. The ones I'm doing aren't £200 and Chris doesn't do that if you want to just ride a bike with suspension set up for you in terms of weight. Damping is also easy...he will ride with the customer, as will I and assist with set up.

The mechanic and BPW day is a different level.

Chris will discuss your requirements objectives. Uplift is provided because it maximises time riding the bike doing what we all want to no?

He will change bar widths, stem lengths, shock lengths, fork offsets, fork heights, tyres, wheels...whatever you want on that day assuming you've discussed it beforehand and work with you to set the bike up exactly as you want, doing back to back runs. If you buy the bike, the cost comes off the price.
He also arrives with three different bike sizes to try...you just don't get that anywhere else. So you can still be riding a different bike whilst the mechanic is setting up an alternative...

Even turning up with three bikes to try and spending a day or morning riding with someone is a big commitment. You don't get that at a normal demo. They don't tune the suspension, progression for you before you ride the thing based on a discussion of your riding, what you want out of the bike, change the bars, stem etc to suit you.

Chris does do that, whether I'm doing the demo with someone for him or he himself comes along.

27.5 is much much closer to 26". It's a material difference to 29er. 25mm increase 26 to 27.5 in dia. Vs 38mm 27.5 to 29

26" 559mm

27.5 584mm

29 622mm

Chainline, would you mind responding to few emails I sent you recently please?

Will do tooFATtoRIDE. I only got one? I spoke to Vincent and he assured me he was getting back to you. But they have been tied up with 2016 catalogue.

ahwiles - Member

Stevet1 - Member
I'm still following this thread as I am honestly interested in how the longer TT /slacker head angle stuff works out.

don't forget the longer chainstays.

everyone always forgets the longer chainstays.

The Chainstays are 445mm which is only 3mm's more than a Yeti SB6c (442mm). Infact the top tube length of a Longer (640mm) is only 8mm more than a that of a large Yeti SB6c (632mm).

It's only reach, seat tube angle and headtube angle (this being the main contributer to the longer overall length) that are much more extreme than other bikes with modern geometry.
It's the combination of these measurement's that lead to the different feel when ridinig the bike. The Seat tube works really really well, and centers you in a way that stops the front from wandering when climbing.

Anyhow, just wanted to point out that some aspects of the geometry aren't a crazy as some people think.

It's a bike that needs to be ridden to see if it suits your style.
As such I plan on taking them up on their paid demo in the new year, so I can test out some different settings and frame sizes to see if it could be the bike for me. (then if I did buy it, I'd know what settings etc worked for me. Regardless of bike, I'll definitely be getting myself a Fox X2, as it was great)

gaz552, very true on the numbers, albeit the TT of 640mm is the M. The Yeti has unfashionably long chainstays and they have always made a longer bike, longer this year in fact, like almost all manufacturers. but the Orange Alpine is similar, longer chainstays, partly due to design, and longer front now.

I don't think just pushing the TT out alone works, its the HA and SA that are key as you say. The HA is 3 degrees slacker and the SA 4.5 degrees steeper, leading to a 60mm longer reach.

That HA is what allows you to drive the front with more forgiveness at the limit, where a front wheel slide becomes a warning to either get more weight over the front or not push harder rather than a crash.

I'd like a pound for everyone that has sat on the bikes and said' it feels normal' 🙂
Things get interesting when you stand as you say, the body position is different, your position relative to the bike is different.

I spoke to Chris today to get some clarity on the the demo position for the Geometron and its spin offs, the GPI and the 29er for UK Riders, as it seems to cause some debate.

There are likely to be some more demo days next year with Nicolai staff in attendance again, like the Forest of Dean day, with the full range of Nicolai bikes and in a addition dedicated Mojo/Fox Geometron demo days with Geometrons/Nicolai GPI options and maybe the odd special project…

If anyone is interested in a Demo ride in the meantime the following options are available in 2016. The range of bikes/frame sets with the GeoMetron geometry is now
Derailleur equipped Mojo/Nicolai 27.5 GeoMetron in S/M/L (Long/Longer/Longest) - usually available from stock
Derailleur equipped Mojo/Nicolai 29 GeoMetron in L (Longest) - available to order only - only available in Size L(Longest/custom)
Nicolai GPI – Pinion gearbox, Gates Belt Drive equipped Geometron geometry/suspension – available in S/M/L (Long/Longer/Longest) - available to order only (custom possible)

Bikes available for demo in 2016 are;

All sizes of Mojo/Nicolai Geometron 27.5, S(Long) M(longer) L(Longest),
M(Longer) Nicolai GPI (Pinion Geometron),
L(Longest) Geometron 29
Demo Options are;

[b][u]Option 1 -[/u] [/b]
A full day at Bike Park Wales, with Chris Porter and or a Mojo setup technician, bike size of your choice/bars/stems/suspension/wheel/tyre options/setups available depending on preferences/options discussed before the day.
The day(s) will be uplifted and focussed on getting exactly the right set up for you. This day(s) is aimed at maximum time on the bike. Riding it is the only way to appreciate the sum of the parts and numbers!
Cost: £200, refundable against a full bike or frame package purchase.

[b]Option 2[/b]
A ride/day with Chris Porter and or Mojo technician on Mojo local or nearby trails e.g. Forest of Dean This day is without all of the varied setup options offered by the uplifted day at Bike Park Wales, and is likely to involve pedalling up. The demo bike will be sized for you, it may be possible to have more than one size available if you are unsure/borderline (except GPI and 29), and it will be set up for your weight/height/style based on pre-discussion. Setup support during the ride.
Cost: £0 but coffee and a cake might not go amiss 😉

[b]Option 3[/b]
A ride/day with either Chris Porter or a Mojo nominated rider with good experience and knowledge of the bike on your local or nominated trails, within reason and the UK, on a demo bike sized for you and set up in terms of suspension based on pre-discussion. Setup support during the ride. Again likely to involve pedalling.
Cost: £to be agreed -If significant travel/fuel/other costs are involved then some (non-refundable) charge will have to be made since its a fair bit of work to make happen.
Timing will depend on location and mutual schedules.

Hope thats a bit clearer on the options/costs etc.

Tempted by the 29er and option three

Also interested in a pic of the belt drive option considering gates don't recommend using a tensioner and the standard geometron suspension design would require one.

Here:

[img] [/img]

[img] [/img]

Thanks for that, very interesting

More here - Nicolai sell that as the Ion GPI on their site - not sure how/if it differs from the Geometron - it does have Fox suspension custom tuned by Mojo.

http://shop.nicolai.net/index.php/ion-gpi-pro.html?___store=en&___from_store=de

Ah - same Geo, it seems

[i]

"It is the first bike worldwide with the unique combination of the GEOMETRON Enduro geometry, the Pinion gearbox and the maintenance free Gates Carbon Drive belt drive."

If I hadn't just moved house you'd have had a definite customer in me....the setup day at BPW really appeals and not just for the demo of a Geometron, I reckon it'd be an invaluable day with regards bike fit, suspension setup etc and most people would come away understanding a lot more about their bike whether they then bought a Geometron or not.

Hopefully I'll have some spare pennies in 2016 at some point, how much is the frame set again?

Std frameset is £2100 with Float x2

£2900 frame/fork/headset + bearing service, shock service and aftercare (damage) included.

There are options to add or remove the various upgrades. Can be discussed if you call Mojo.

Honourable George. The GPI isn't quite the same as the GeoMetron geo as std, but if bought through Chris it will be and the one we will have for demo will be. The UK bikes are 1 deg slacker.

I'm really surprised at the price for the complete ION GPI, that seems at least £1k less than I'd expect with a pinion gearbox.

Don't say things like that, some of us would like to afford one... one day

One thinks one could potentially do better than that with an improved spec Solamanda

Chainline - or anyone else….

Option 3 - are demos in Scotland on the radar at all?

I'm going to go out on a limb and say that most of you won't benefit from a 63/62 degree head angle bike with a 1300mm wheelbase and ridiculous reach numbers.

Because they take a much more physically demanding style of riding to get the most out of, something that is great for pros on steep courses but not so much weekend warriors. These bikes do not work well with the turn and carve style of riding that 95% of hobby riders employ, you have to phsyically and conciously load up the front and ride the front wheel allowing the rear to drift around the corner like a rally car. Downhill bikes of race pedigree take a huge amount of effort to get the most out of.

It's a style that's also particually well suited to trail erosion. There is also not getting away from the fact that not all trails are well suited to these kinds of bikes, my old mans MK2 Nomad was actually better at Coed-Y-Brenin than my 2015 Giant Reign.

Total cods-wallop

I think it would suit rides who have spent a large amount of time riding DH bikes. Much in the same way, a slack 29er enduro bike also needs be man handled like a DH bike.

Well....I disagree 😛

I'm fully expecting to see people wiping out a lot on these things. Great for Dhers - I'd love to have a go on one having come from that background. Not so sure they will be so great for trail riders.

There was a little video on MBR about the gearbox one.

They suggested the suspension is great & it holds a line well, but it's a big, fat tank.

Struggling to see the point myself, but hey, people like to be different.

The point for me is better fit as I am large arms and medium legs and its a confidence boost, it probably wouldn't make me any faster, it'd just mean I wasn't bricking it all the time down some of the local hills.

Well, they take a very different style of riding - as long as you don't mind that. But I'd argue that if you're bricking it - downhill bikes etc come with their own set of idiosyncracies that can make you shit bricks.

A good analogy is a Desmodecci Moto GP bike vs a Yamaha R1.

99 percent of motorbikers will ride faster on the latter, the other 1 percent will be able to ring the neck of the bike and get a faster lap time. As it takes more physicality and commitment to ride fast on the former.

Another good analogy is an escalator vs a step ladder.

you're far less likely to fall off an escalator than a step ladder.

Only if that anology involves going over the bars.

I wipe out a lot more on downhill bikes and go down sideways. I also tend to go faster, so when I do crash I crash in a bigger, more painful fashion. You're also more likely to case them on jumps and drops when you're tired as they physically take more to correctly jump and drop on - not just because of the weight but because of the geometry. I find the front wheel will drop away from you much more quickly - they are much less tolerant of poor airbourne technique than a 6 inch bike. Except of course if you manage to stay on, then the extra cushion helps.

If I'm going to have a 62 degree head angled bike with dual ply minions, I'd rather just put a wide range cassette, a dropper post, carbon wheels, and an airshock with a lockout function on a carbon downhill bike. It will be the same weight, it will do the same thing, it will also have full DH travel and proper dual crowns. Save for theseatube it would be pretty close to the nicolai, someone should produce a DH bike with a steep seatube.

Jumps, drops and airborne are not words that come frequently in my riding.

I've ridden this bike, I like it, I cant yet afford it.

Well you've kind of proven my point really - if you don't do those things are you going to commit to corners enough to actually warrant such an extreme head angle? Slack head angles wont always make you feel less nervous on straights steep stuff either, unless you load the front wheel up - they can lack feel and be decidely pingy through rock and root sections.

Have you tried a Mondraker, the fit will be good but the head angles are less crazy for your average trail rider?

Nope, not tried a Mondraker, do you have one to sell, is this where its going?

I'm interested in a bike that I've tried and liked. Not quite sure what the problem is there.

Ahh young Tom92384239084457 is back. Tom, you're awesome xx

Just don't make a mistake mate, especially if it's going to take a while for you to save up. If you do like it, can you afford to get more rides on one or know anyone who has got one so you can ride on varied terrain for a few more days? A day isn't enough to know in my experience.

Mondrakers with the forward geometry go all the time on ebay, but you can pick up frames new for about 1300, so a lot less than the Nicolai. They are longer than anything bar the Nicolai by a long shot and you can always stick an angleset in to knock 2 degrees off the head angle at a later date.

I'm not trying to belittle anyone, I'm just trying to offer counterpoints before people jump on a potential bandwagon and make a 2200 quid plus mistake.

Mum, get off the Internet, you're embarrassing me

So much great advice on this thread from people who haven't ridden the bike.

Tom_W1987 - Member

Only if that anology involves going over the bars.

I wipe out a lot more on downhill bikes and go down sideways. I also tend to go faster, so when I do crash I crash in a bigger, more painful fashion. You're also more likely to case them on jumps and drops when you're tired as they physically take more to correctly jump and drop on - not just because of the weight but because of the geometry. I find the front wheel will drop away from you much more quickly - they are much less tolerant of poor airbourne technique than a 6 inch bike. Except of course if you manage to stay on, then the extra cushion helps.

If I'm going to have a 62 degree head angled bike with dual ply minions, I'd rather just put a wide range cassette, a dropper post, carbon wheels, and an airshock with a lockout function on a carbon downhill bike. It will be the same weight, it will do the same thing, it will also have full DH travel and proper dual crowns. Save for theseatube it would be pretty close to the nicolai, someone should produce a DH bike with a steep seatube.

Not sure there's enough ink in my red pen to correct all the wrong in that.

I'm looking forward to trying one, they seem to have been built with me in mind. I love the bike I'm currently on, but would like it a little longer as my style has changed since I bought it in 2012. Slack bikes just need a bit of technique change. My Alpine currently has a 64* head angle, 1200mm wheelbase and fairly long chain stays and it's great going up and down.

I've heard the Geometron is good on wet roots

Can you convert the GPI to chain when the belt fails?

Just ride the bike with the same technique as you would on a motocross bike. The attack position (elbows up).
Also weighting the front wheel really isn't difficult due to your riding position.

So glad I'm on a dinky little smart phone I can't even be bothered to call out all the weapons grade BS being spouted.

For the record I'm a downhiller with a frustrating lack of access to mountains so I want to try a Geometron and cause maximum erosion on the poor little trails.

Geometron e-bike please, I would like to be greeted with maximum hostility everywhere I go.

Not sure there's enough ink in my red pen to correct all the wrong in that.

Not only can I feel that whilst riding bikes with similar geometry - it's basic physics that if you put a front wheel with some mass further out in front of you then it's going to drop away from you more easily if you use poor technique. It's also blatantly obvious that the further you put a wheel out in front of you, the more effort you have to put into loading the front tyre.

Keep up with the bandwagons guys and the idea that something that suits world cup racers will automatically suit you as well.

Even if you do ride it once, on one day at Bike Park Wales, the whole psychology of "oooooh shiney new thing that rides a bit differently...must have" will mean that you will love it regardless. After one month of riding it in terrain outside of downhill track like trails - the story might be different.

Maybe I'm just a massive cynic though.

I don't think it's being pitched at people who can't ride tbh

Meh, it just strikes me that it will get boring/tiring fast on long rides. I've seen a few reviews on the German sites that have said similar things about the Mondrakers, that you have to rag the utter crap out of them all the time to get them to work. That would also be my experience of them - I just can't be arsed...I want to eat pork pies, banter and dick about on the side of the trail. Not hit everything in full gnarr racer mode.

My Reign takes enough effort as it is.

I'm finding myself ambivalent and somewhat confused in regards to the logic of the whole thing. The long reach is for climbing right or is just a side effect of the steep seat angle? Great - but apparently this wears you out quicker on the downs. If I can't keep the end down it's usually just faster to walk anyway. Orange and a few other manufacturers with long reaches build their DH bikes with shorter reaches than their enduro bikes? Am I going to see people ride these things in half lids? If I do, I think I might get the urge to kill someone.

Overthinking this - will pay to have a go on one to see if it's better than the mondrakers as I'm a jaded dick.

I'd quite happily have a bike where you 'need to rag the utter crap' out of it. That's sort of the point of why I go riding.

It's been said that these bikes aren't for everyone. But they do seem to go pretty fast.

Tom KP

As some one who has ridden this bike twice now. once at the forest of dean on trails I've ridden on quite a few different bikes Ive owned. Then once on some trails I rode with paul from mojo, trails I've never ridden.

I've got no reason to hate or love this bike. But what surprised me was that when riding a trail that had ups and downs, along flats. I never once felt that it was a struggle. no more than any other bike I've ridden anyway. Don't get me wrong it took a slightly different approach to get the most out of it, ie needing to get your weight over the front of it. But that's no different than riding any other type of bike, all be if that's a santa cruz trc, an alpine 160, a road bike or motocross bike. They are all different, so will have a slightly different approach.

If you find that its takes different muscles in the body to ride it, then so be it. get out on it and those muscles will develop.

Oh and also anyone who says it wont go round corners, to big to jump and play about on. you sir are a muppet.

Haha tomw you make me laugh you obviously have no clue! Next time your st coed y brenin let me know ill bring my one for you to ride!

I'd love a go to see what it's like but it's well outside my purchasing power, and Skill level.

From reading about it and looking through the info from Mojo it strikes me as a bike to get if you know exactly what you want and need, and are a very competent rider? It's set up to really come into its own at the ragged edge? I'm not sure I'd get the most out of it over an off the shelf bike.

Thing is you could easily spend just as much on an off the shelf bike and that wouldn't come with 2 sets of wheels, personalised suspension setup, choice of contact and control points, tailored gearing and rear travel... etc, etc but this bike does.

While the geo is quite progressive I think a huge chunk of its performance comes from all the added extras so if you don't want to ride "on the ragged edge" then you wouldn't get them to set it up like that.

Thing is you could easily spend just as much on an off the shelf bike and that wouldn't come with 2 sets of wheels, personalised suspension setup, choice of contact and control points, tailored gearing and rear travel... etc, etc but this bike does.

Whilst I'm completely ambivalent to it as a bike, that doesn't really stack up to me.

You could quite easily spend a hell of a lot less on a 'better' spec bike that's just as capable & a shed load lighter (in the real world, rather than some make believe numbers) & still get the suspension worked over to the same sort of degree & save yourself a couple of grand.

But, the choice is a good thing I guess. Can't escape the fact it's a minging, ugly thing though.

I'm not sure you'd get better spec, lighter, more capable, custom tuned suspension and 2k cheaper but even if you can you can't deny you get a lot when stacked against everyone else at the same price.

I was just trying to suggest that saying you / I / someone wouldn't buy this bike that comes with loads of custom features because it probably isn't right for them doesn't make sense as part of the package is making it right for you.

Closest you might get to geometron geo for a lot cheaper might be to get an Airdrop Edit and put a -2 degree angleset on it (that is if it'll take one).

Anyhow, I don't think at any point was anyone under the illusion that this was a cheap option, similar to mass produced bikes.

I'm not questioning the price, top end bikes are now getting all around that price with boutique frames etc.

My point was is! That clearly this is a big old bike 170mm travel it's not a trail centre or woods type bike it's for riding fast and tough trails flat out. So I think watering it dien wouldn't do it justice as it's not what it's designed for? So I I rocked up at Mojo said here 6k I ride trail centre blues and occasionally Whites Level, they'd struggle to get it any better than say a Stumpy or anthem, with properly set up shocks?

I think you'd need to be a certain skill level to push the bike for it to come into its own enough for the changes to shine through, and wonder if you aren't pushing it it may be a bit meh?

Cool concept and customisation though.

Tbh its the setup rides at cwmcarn with Mojo that sound more I retesting to me, not necessarily with the geometron, but I think loads of bikes and riders would benefit from this

Tom_W1987 you havent ridden one, stop spouting bullshit! hacking anglesets on other bikes just doesn't come close to making it the same. I have some friends who've tried it. You just can't replicate the position it places the rider on on the bike that way, especially with shorter chainstays. Ignore what you think the HA does for you. It's not for stability, it doesnt need that. It changes the way it steers and corners compared to a steeper bike.

There could be a possibility of a demo in Scotland, would likely have to be be nearer the borders to make it practical, much further North than Pitlochry, and its getting towards a long weekend I suspect..preferably nearer 'Tress/Inners.

Travel is 155mm/165mm in stock. Can be easily set to be lower at the rear or run 160mm at the front. It is not 'clearly' a big old bike anymore than a Nomad is. You have to ride it to get that. It's a very capable trail bike that can be ridden on daft stuff with confidence.

You don't need to be a certain skill level.

Wookster - Member

My point was is! That clearly this is a big old bike 170mm travel it's not a trail centre or woods type bike

It's 155mm at the back. And my standard 160 Ion is plenty playful and is no bother round the woods

@HobNob, not sure I'd agree that 33lbs all up with pedals is a big fat tank. A guide friend of mine did an experiment the other year because various guests were all turning up with talk of their "28lb' AM/Trail bikes as per manufacturers weights or just what they thought. So he rigged a bike scale up and weighed each one before loading into the the trailer in front of the group...most of them were 33lb to 35lbs.
No one's holiday was ruined 🙂
My 2010 Helius AM was 32lb, it kept finding its way into the DIrt 100..

Tom_W1987 considers his next response...
[img] [/img]

There could be a possibility of a demo in Scotland.....preferably nearer 'Tress/Inners

Make this happen!

There could be a possibility of a demo in Scotland, would likely have to be be nearer the borders to make it practical, much further North than Pitlochry, and its getting towards a long weekend I suspect..preferably nearer 'Tress/Inners.

Thanks - think that would be a popular option even for some of us northerly folk.

Ok. I'll look at that. Can any of you Northern folk/Very Northern folk drop me a line on my profile email. so I can get an idea of Numbers. Maybe the best option could be a full demo weekend with Mojo, the only question could be timing.

I don't mind doing it, just need to see how many/what size bikes we'd be looking at.

I had a quick look at the MBR article. The GPI, built properly is nothing like 18kg, and the gearbox isn't 2.7kg either.
The 18spd gearbox is but not the 12 or the 9 which are 2.35kg and 2.2kg respectively. The bike can be specified with any of them. The 9sp has a slightly larger range than typical XX1 but runs in what feels like 2 gear step changes compare to XX1.

And in answer to an earlier question, if the belt broke can you convert the bike to chain drive, yes. But I'd suggest its easier to just replace the belt.

Just like to say I rode the long Nicolai Ion GPI at the FoD demo day and I liked it.......... I liked it a lot.

Thanks

Jes

P.S. When I get one I shall probably ride it occasionally along canal tow paths 😀

Innerleithen'd be the perfect place to testdrive one of these I reckon, especially if you can do it on an uplift day. I'd love a go but I can't afford one so it'd be taking the piss 😆

Just watched the GPI video review. I'll weigh the demo once its built. Pretty sure it wont be near 18kg!

Where's that review, Chainline?

As for 18kg Nicolai are quoting 16.3kg for the full build.

Its here, it kind of goes against what a lot of other Pinion users have said

[url= http://www.mbr.co.uk/videos/bikes-and-equipment/is-the-nicolai-ion-gpi-the-most-radical-mountain-bike-ever-created-video ]http://www.mbr.co.uk/videos/bikes-and-equipment/is-the-nicolai-ion-gpi-the-most-radical-mountain-bike-ever-created-video[/url]

It basically lists all the problems and skims over the plus points... and I think they said it weighed 2.5kg when pinion say it weighs 2.35 (not much difference but lets be accurate) and has a bigger range than a 2 x 10

Thought it was fairly balanced... 36lb (probably without pedals too) is a fair old heft for a trail centre bike.

Maybe it was his ultra monotone voice that make me think it was a bit negative and I suppose 36lb is a bit portly for a trail centre bike but does the weight increase counteract the other benefits?

Good review IMO.

does the weight increase counteract the other benefits?

Sounded like a clear "yes" to me.

Can't really get my head round having to stop pedaling to change gears either. How's that gonna work if you're racing from a standing start?

Changing up under load is no problem.

Changing down to a lower gear whilst under full load going up a hill won't work, you need to back off for a fraction of a second, easiest at bottom of stroke, however at that point you can change either 1 or as many gears as you like almost instantaneously.

Don't know about you, but if I'm in the wrong gear under full standup load on a steep climb, say after a blind corner or unknown trail, I can't change easily with my derailleur, if you don't back off the load a bit it sounds like you are going to tear your drivetrain apart and is a good recipe for snapping a chain.

It's a hard stop on the Pinion though, if there is too much load changing down, it just wont shift, but an imperceptible pause and its an instant change...it's an adaption.

of course the amount it slows you down could be minimal compared to snapping a chain or ripping off a derailleur in the same race.

I'm not trying to defend how the gearbox works, some people will hate it, some will be unconcerned and adapt very easily, thats fine.

My intention is to show it can be a sensible weight, 33lbs or lower. Typically we reckon its 800g -1kg heaver than a 1x11 equipped equivalently specced bike.

If I lived somewhere with lots of steep rocky gnarly trails and drivetrain eating grit I'd definitely be booking a test ride on both the Geometron and GPI.

I've never considered bike weight a big issue and I'm fairly convinced of the benefits of such a radical design - I'm sure if you went back a decade and asked people if my current 140mm bike with a head angle approaching 65 deg was a good idea they'd say it was downright silly!