Anyone ridden the Mojo Nicolai yet?

Having spent 24 hours trying to do a deal on a seemingly cheap private 2nd hand one, and emailing chainline with infinate inane questions I will be going for a new one.

Just arranging a days riding with Chainline to get a feel for the bike. His passion and knowledge for this stuff is infectious. A true credit to the industry (that he does for the love of it)

Really like the reviews this bike is getting, but the only thing I think it lacks is space for a water bottle. Is there room or mounts?

rotton, its one of the reasons some people still go for a Helius, to fit a bottle. You could fit mounts below as a custom option. I think on the current Longest there would be room to fit one on the bottom of the top tube, not sure how that would work though. No room on the long/longer.

BiGMAN Ill ask about the argon

Chainline - Member

At least, within reason you can retrofit changes to a Nic and replace with new parts e.g. axle standards, dropouts, levers and rear end. or even front triangle in some cases.

You can't retrofit a 27.5 rear end to a 26" though, unfortunately

(Unless you know different...in which case I'd be interested to hear about it)

@Chainline - I asked them directly this am and it seems it might be a future thing and to go back to them in April.

Either that or it's a custom thing.

Chainline - Member

Thanks digga The Ion15 was my baby, joint design with me and Marcel. and I agree, still one of my favourite bikes.

Here's mine BTW:

[img] [/img]

@Digga I do love the semi yellow and red finish. Yes, that's me.

There's a medium on eBay.

There is Mugboo. a young man who changes his bikes rather regularly I think, makes me look like an amateur!

I've now ridden the longest version of this, admittedly only up the car park and back but at least it's something. I was surprised how normal it felt, I was expecting it to feel really odd especially as that's the biggest one they make and I'm only 5.10ish but I could see me getting on with it just fine.

That's exactly how I felt on one. I went to the demo and timed several runs, then went back on my current bike; mojo was consistently faster, felt more stable and confidence inspiring.

That's exactly how I felt on one. I went to the demo and timed several runs, then went back on my current bike; mojo was consistently faster, felt more stable and confidence inspiring.

Taking speed and timing out of the equation, if big brands started doing similar geo bikes it's not as if it's a wild difference for people to get used to. It's just a pity I don't have the cash and there's nothing particularly similar at lower prices

Anyone know the weight of the frames? I'm not a weight weenie but I'll be looking for a new bike in the near future and the Geometron is on my list. It ticks all the boxes I'm looking for: Very slack, long front, no silly short seat stays and no fancy suspension system.

I'm currently on an Orange Alpine (26) and not sure whether to get another newer one, something with less travel like a Five or the Geometron. Just trying to decide what sort of riding I'll be doing for them next 3-5 years after I buy it.

Tom KP.

He didn't tell us the weight and pointed out that heavier bikes have better sprung to unsprung mass ratios explaining how in the past he's filled some frames with lead weights and had better results with them than lighter ones.

Also considering it's much longer than a lot of frames it's not going to be light is it because it's simply got more material in it.

Having said that, it felt lighter than my 32lbs hardtail but I didn't have it to hand to do a proper comparison.

Was that the longest he had there on Friday then?

I think so, it was his bike so whatever he rides, said it should suit people 5.11 to 6.3 but he's thinking of doing a fourth size even longer however Nicolai are reluctant to make the chainstays any longer so it'd be a bit of a compromise at the back end.

I'm not too bothered about weight (within reason), current bike is 35lbs and I like how it doesn't seem to get deflected offline compared to some lighter bikes I've ridden. But it's more about having to winch a heavy bike up long climbs.

He says the steepness of the seat angle and the seat position make it climb better than most bikes and as before, it'll not be a lightweight frame as its simply got more material in it than most.

Standard 2013 Nicolai Ion 16 frame is 7.08lbs/3.2 kg (Size M, black anodize, w/o shock [url= http://www.pinkbike.com/news/Nicolai-Ion-16-review-2013.html ]http://www.pinkbike.com/news/Nicolai-Ion-16-review-2013.html[/url]...

Cheers. Like I said, weight isn't the decider, but no matter how well designed a bike is if it's a proper porker it'll effect climbing on a long ascent. 3.2(ish) plus shock doesn't sound too bad to me for a long travel frame so it's still in the running (not much more than a Transition Covert). As I said, I don't tend to race up climbs, they're mainly there to get me to the top for the fun stuff.

Tom KP

With such a slack head angle, how would putting on a high rise handlebar affect the riding postion?

Like many have said here , climbs nicely and amazing at high speed on the way down,
did not have much time to get used to it but found tight turns a bit weird though.

Pinion gerbox was not to my liking either, pity as I had wanted one for ages..

Bit OT, but has anyone tried short-shocking a Helius CC with a 190x50?

nice or nasty?

He didn't tell us the weight and pointed out that heavier bikes have better sprung to unsprung mass ratios explaining how in the past he's filled some frames with lead weights and had better results with them than lighter ones.

iffoverload - Pinion gerbox was not to my liking either, pity as I had wanted one for ages..

I'd like to try a pinion but I think I prefer the effigar (especially now they have a proper trigger shifter) and you have to accept that gearboxes are different so will fell to standard gears

Stevet1 - I'm sorry but isn't that a load of bollocks?

Nope, its well documented that within reason a heavier bike will hold its line better, also a larger sprung mass provides more resistance against the unsprung so if you hit a bump the frame and the rider are more likely to stay where they are while the wheels mover over the bump.

I would have thought it would have been improved performance on descents rather than climbing (depending on the weight). I know our old TR450 ride better than any other bike I've ever ridden (DH bike) even compared to newer, lighter bikes as that had all the weight low down and central.

I can't imagine a much heavier bike climbing better. Might be more stable and planted, but on a long slog you're still going to be expending more energy compared to the same frame without the extra weight.

I personally think that a bike around 30lbs is light for what I need, but I wouldn't want anything over 35lbs for general trail riding/enduro/all mountain (current bike is 35lbs and it rides as I want it). But going for a new bike I'd want to stay around about 32lbs without compromising the strength of the components and frame.

Tom KP.

I think the issue there is the Geometron has a really steep seat tube so that counteracts any minor weight gain and as said further up, I'd estimate the largest size weighing less than my 32.5lbs bike.

Its not so much that heavy bikes climb poorly, more that poorly climbing bikes tend to be heavy.

@zero cool Mine is 31lbs currently. Frame is 3.4kg with hardware without shock.

I'm running CK hubs, magic Mary and minion, alloy bar and x2 shock, hope cranks so light but not the lightest stuff I have.

I can be a weight weenie. I have made it lighter using my crossmax XL pro wheels I run with dean easy in the rear and Ardent race rear, xtr cranks, renthal carbon bar.

You could run it with a much lighter rear shock, a current rp23 evol would still work well saving another 200g. Using an xx1 cassette helps too.

For Trail duties basically you can run it a hair under 30lbs without any real compromise on durability.

Nicolai are sending a GPI over in the M/Longer size the next month for us to build up and make available as a demo bike, I'll be the custodian and make it available to test either at Mojo or on home trails with me. The same applies to the std bike so back to back tests will be possible. This is happening now.

There is still expected to be a trigger shifter available for the pinion box in the first quarter of next year. If not, Marcel at Nicolai has said to me that they will produce one for it. The grip shift is fine in reality but I too would probably prefer a trigger...I'd probably prefer a Di2 style electric shifter but that might be a stretch, although there is plenty of room in the gearbox housing.

You can also increase or decrease front or rear travel if that suits you rear 140-175mm I recollect. Min at the front is 160 really.

And within sensible parameters I.e. Not 10lbs difference, bike weight makes little difference to actual energy expended climbing, far less so than tyre width/pressures/compound.

Typically 3 lb on a bike with a typical 80kg/175lb rider on a 2hr 300m climb you'd expend an additional 80kcals. Which is quite surprising isn't it. Of course if you have to carry it it's a bugger.

But increasing weight by 3 out of 175lb is a small percentage.

If not, Marcel at Nicolai has said to me that they will produce one for it.

That's a bold statement, if Pinion haven't managed to make one themselves, I'd assume that its because it cannot be done.

Nope, its well documented that within reason a heavier bike will hold its line better, also a larger sprung mass provides more resistance against the unsprung so if you hit a bump the frame and the rider are more likely to stay where they are while the wheels mover over the bump.

Carbon swingarms and air sprung forks decrease unsprung mass.
How much difference do you need?
Also what is this wotnot and is it SRAM or Shimano compatible?

Yeah, decreasing unsprung is the same as increasing sprung (sort of) plus the whole point of this bike is that the designer is telling all those downhill teams something... Their geometry can be adapted successfully for trail riding.

Also what has going in a straight line got to do with anything? No one ever said "my bike is too heavy, it wont go round corners"

How much difference do you need?

Also what has going in a straight line got to do with anything? No one ever said "my bike is too heavy, it wont go round corners"

Please cite me any example in MTB racing where someone has added weights to there bike solely for the purpose of increasing the sprung mass.

35lb bike does not feel heavy till you ride a sub 30lb bike 😉

5lbs is not a lot of weight but it is a 14% weight difference

if you want stability dual ply tyres are your answer.

5lbs is not a 14% difference is the weight of the overall object being propelled. Only the bike, which in itself is only abut 17% of your average, fit , 6ft rider.

Its also weight saved usually in the least important part, the frame. as mentioned reducing unsprung mass gives the most benefits.
and the example is CP adding lead to some DH bikes experimenting with increases in sprung mass and the effect on suspension performance.

Kinda off topic here anyways...just for a change....if you want a carbon framed, lighter bike and think thats important to your riding enjoyment, or are bothered by a 30lb bike. look elsewhere. simples. The choice is there.

Which I guess is where you (or CP) are saying any potential benefits might come from in holding a line

As in holding a horizontal line, not as in turning corners. ie not getting thrown all over the shop.

if you want a carbon framed, lighter bike and think thats important to your riding enjoyment, or are bothered by a 30lb bike. look elsewhere. simples. The choice is there.

This, this and more this. if you perceive benefits are to be had through the reduction of weight, buy a bike designed around that. If you perceive benefits are to be had through progressive geometry, then buy a bike designed around that.

Having spent 2 hours with Chris Porter answering all sorts of questions, his arguments are very convincing. More convincing to me than putting an already good rider on a bike and showing me DH results sheets.

The proof of the pudding is in the riding with this bike. Not everyone will like it, thats for sure. A lot of people will love it.

Chris, and finally Nicolai, has realised this which is why he wanted to offer these demo's. I'm passionate about bike design anyway and in particular this direction, have been for a few years. Which is why I'm trying to answer questions objectively and to get the bikes around the country to ride with interested people on their home trails or where they want to ride, helping with set up and explaining the differences etc. letting them ride back to back different sizes if they aren't sure and with their own bikes if they want that comparison.

I'm off to Hebden to do just that this weekend in fact. Should be fun.

As I said, for a 160(ish) bike I consider 32lbs to be a light bike and sub-30 to be lighter than I'll ever need. I was mainly asking about the weight because no one has really mentioned it appart from saying it's heavier than most bikes but still rides well and you don't notice it. Normally when people say things like this without giving numbers the bike turns out to be a complete anchor

factoring the rider into the weight of a bike is kinda strange IMO. 😕

the rider is a dynamic active component and the same rider on a different weight bike will notice a difference of a few lbs... or to use numbers.. of nearly 1/5 of the bikes weight.

and I'd say riding enjoyment does not depend on anything other than the rider, if you need a weighty bike to have fun though thats fine 😉

Please cite me any example in MTB racing where someone has added weights to there bike solely for the purpose of increasing the sprung mass

if you perceive benefits are to be had through the reduction of weight, buy a bike designed around that. If you perceive benefits are to be had through progressive geometry, then buy a bike designed around that.

Having spent 2 hours with Chris Porter answering all sorts of questions, his arguments are very convincing. More convincing to me than putting an already good rider on a bike and showing me DH results sheets.

Steve1, Chris did add lead weights near to the BB to the team DH bikes he was supporting, experimenting with the effect on suspension and performance.
Quote from Paul Aston' Pinkbike Geometron review "Mojo Suspension and Chris Porter have a history of ruffling feathers: Remember the PVC style skinsuits that popped up at the Fort William World Cup in 2008? Technology taken from ski racing that gave two team riders their best results ever? What about strapping lead weights to his racer's bikes to improve the sprung - unsprung mass ratio?"

I do not believe a heavier bike is better. I do however believe a bike can be too light for descending duties to be 'settled'

I'm off to Hebden to do just that this weekend in fact. Should be fun.

Have you seen the forecast 🙂

Stevet1 - Member
I'm still following this thread as I am honestly interested in how the longer TT /slacker head angle stuff works out.

don't forget the longer chainstays.

everyone always forgets the longer chainstays...

...and the steep seat angle. I was bored of typing by that point.