I hear there’s been a bit of bad weather around this week. Here’s a little tale to make you feel much better….

With a lot of complex stuff going on in my life recently, I decided that the time was right to take a couple of days off work and head away by myself for some pondering and reflecting time. For me, that always means heading north, and preferably as far north west as I can get. On this occasion, it also gave me the chance to try a track I’d walked a few years back and which, since then, has had me wondering what it would be like on a bike.

I’d originally thought about camping but the spate of foul weather we’d been having made me reconsider. A phone call to The Old Inn in Gairloch had me sorted for a couple of nights and Monday saw me heading off in the clag and rain. The weather got gradually colder as I drove north and the snowploughs and gritters had been clearing a foot or so of snow off the A9 at Drumochter. As I’d hoped, and on cue with the weather forecast, the farther north I travelled, the better the weather got. By the time I reached Gairloch, the skies had almost cleared, the wind had died down and everything was drying out. A light smattering of snow on the Torridon Mountains promised lovely views the next day.

Tuesday morning and I was up and dead keen to head off. Breakfast was consumed and a hearty packed lunch added to my stores for the day. A short drive to Poolewe and the Blur was unpacked, boots on and I was off. Yes – the Blur. That might be a bit of a surprise as I’ve been enthusing about the mmmbop so much recently. However, I reckoned that I’d appreciate the extra comfort of rear suspension and anyway, these sort of tracks were exactly why I’d built a lightweight FS.

Heading off along the short stretch of tarmac road, it wasn’t long before I came to the sign – “Cyclists are welcome on estate tracks only”. Oh – and the other one “Cyclists use the estate tracks at their own risk”. OK if you’re a walker on on horse-back then? Of course, I knew that these signs could be ignored from a legal perspective, but I so wanted to avoid any antagonism. Kernsary is the last habitation on the route and I passed through here un-noticed other than by a couple of yappy dogs safely held back in their kennels and pens. Up the hill, up the hill again over very broken, but dry, tracks and then the view started to open out. West to Loch Ewe, East to Fionn Loch and the mountains in the South…… err, hang on a mo….. a quick look at the map and a look around me confirmed it – I had missed the turn-off through the forest.

Loch Kernsary and Loch Ewe beyond by druidh_dubh, on Flickr

I back-tracked quickly, covering the ground with some speed. Just over 2km, but 160 metres of climbing I didn’t need. Seeing the gate into the forest, I really couldn’t work out how I’d missed it. This track proved to be a lot wetter but it gained a height a loss less rapidly so progress was fairly easy. Leaving the forest, I could see that I was now where I expected to be and the footpath shown on the map turned out to be very well constructed and well drained with a decent gravel surface interspersed with rocks and boulders. As an MTB route, I’d say it was just about perfect. Lots of water bars at one point had me cursing – Letterewe Forest on my own in November was no place to be experiencing multiple punctures or bent rims so quite a few were carried. A couple of soft spots also had me carrying for short distances, but overall I’d say the route was 95% rideable. The views were, quite frankly, stunning. As long as the sun was out, there was enough heat in the day to be comfortable but a cold breeze warned that any enforced stoppages would be punished.

Fisherfield Mountains by druidh_dubh, on Flickr

Reaching the causeway between the Fionn Loch and Dubh Loch, I literally laughed out loud. This feature, spotted on a map many years ago, has always held a fascination for me and I was so happy to be here for the second time. A quick look around, a huge doorstep of a sandwich and it was already time to head back. I’d have loved to sit and ponder here some more but it’s short days hereabouts and that wind was still blowing cold.

Deep in Letterewe by druidh_dubh, on Flickr

On the way back, I braved a few more of the water-bars, happy I was making good progress and when the track started downhill before the forest I was really motoring, the Blur living up to its name as we flicked and weaved our way along the track, between heather and up and over the various wee step-ups and mini-drops. Once again, I found myself high with the exhiliration of it all and was laughing out loud again as I re-entered the forest. All that was left now was the ride to Kernsary and then along the road to Poolewe, whereupon I saw the first human being I’d seen since setting out that morning.

A classic, classic route which could have been made for biking. Why this isn’t reglarly brought up as “the best ride in the UK” I’ll never know. Perhaps the locals are trying to keep it to themselves?

The Blur was also absolutely excellent btw. Even with the 120mm forks, it steers quickly and can be flicked around some of the more nadgery stuff in a way that the mmmbop can’t manage. Any doubts I’ve been harbouring about keeping it were thoroughly dissolved in the course of that one ride and I’m sooo looking forward to more of that stuff next year.

On the way back home the next day, I decided to take a little detour at Contin and walk some of the trails used for the Strathpuffer. I’d actually been harbouring a notion about entering the Puffer 2011, but got caught out when I an appointment with a lawyer co-incided with the entry process. This would give me an opportunity to see if I wanted to do some arm-twisting and so-on to try to get an entry.

For those that rather look down on the whole hill-walking thing, I really do suggest you give it a go. While I’d count myself as one of the two-wheeled ramblers, there’s still nothing quite so relaxing and de-stressing as a nice walk, especially on your own. Thoughts stream through your brain in a way that they just don’t when biking.

The track through the forest at Contin was lovely, but it felt like there was something missing. It’s like there’s no history, no connection to the land. It made me consider the difference between purpose-built MTB trails and some of the long-established long-distance routes. Travel some of the old drove roads or coffin roads and you can feel the history as you go. There’s a connection between you, the land and the folk who have used them for generations, sometimes centuries. It’s as if the old trails are steak and the MTB centres are just soya burgers. No matter how much cheese and relish you add to the meal, they’ll always be a somewhat ersatz experience.

View from Contin Forest by druidh_dubh, on Flickr

As for the Puffer, well I came to realise, as I walked, that I’d no real incentive for doing it, that for me, it would all be about credibility and bragging rights – “look at how hard I am” – but that was it. I realised that I didn’t need need that sort of affirmation when there are other, more interesting rides to do. Hats off to those that do it though – you’ll always have my admiration.

My route…

Carnmore by druidh_dubh, on Flickr

So that’s what you wanted holidays for.

Looking good up there, hope you sorted out what you needed to sort.

(p.s. jimmy n me are perhaps riding sunday – you back?)

I’m not reading all that.

(Looks great, very jealous!)

Nice one Colin, that trail is a brilliant ride and reasonably ‘all-weather’ (until it’s buried in snow). Myself & 13thfloor also missed that gate back in May…. it may be using some primitive cloaking device when ‘um townies’ come by…

Nice stuff Druidh.

Nice writing, thanks for making the effort. Hope the head is in a better place now.

Enjoyed reading that – thanks!

Would it be possible to continue to the north east towards An Teallach? How good is the path?

Looks and sounds perfect, thanks for sharing

Well thats just about the best piece of mtb journalism I’ve read for a while. Sign him up Singletrack!

To use your food metaphor and give you a cryptic one back…oven cooked salmon with pesto and a light coating of parmesan on top.

Most cycling stuff I read these days is a cheese fondue of emotional psycho babble or a hardcore mixed grill of techno talk.

This is a ride I’d like to do in the future but more importanntly the type of journalism I want to read.

Another nice story and pics, druidh. Thanks for sharing, hope all’s well.

ETA: Yeah, what couldgetacarforthat said too!!!

good story thanks, i want to get back up that way soon!

Nice report and good pics. Well done.

You don’t do the Puffer for the route. It’s dark most of the time anyway. You do it because it seems better in retrospect than it actually was when you were doing it.

Beautiful Colin, great photos!

And yes, now I don’t feel so silly for leading me and Rob straight past that turning.

TJ, heading north east from the Causeway/Carnmore is a good track but very steep initially. Once you’re up its great, a relatively flat traverse with the fisherfields coming and going as you drop in and out of little dips. Eventually you reach a fantastic viewpoint of Beinn Dearg, and a very steep, rocky, switchbacky descent donw to Strath na Sealga. Once you’ve forded your way across that you reach Shenavall and have a choice of routes back to the Destitution Road, both good.

Good report! Looks like a nice ride & extra points for use of the word ‘ersatz’.

ta

I have walked in to fisherfield from the north many years ago

Good read – thanks

p.s. also enjoying the 1-glove tribute to a certain Mr. Jackson…?

Proper mountainbiking!, and great writing Colin…
i agree on the riding or walking through time on old routes full of history…a great wee read 😮

I think this might be a good use of the forum, at least it was one of the best things I’ve read on here for a long time.

Thanks – druidh a great report. Only making me jealous of a proper bit of soul riding 😀

Most enjoyable thread. Thank you. 😀

Lovely stuff – I think you’ve captured exactly how I feel about trail centres and 24h racing too.

Good write up.

BTW the ‘Puffer is not about the trail, it’s about the conditions which turn the track into something else altogether. It’s a completely different prospect at 3am in a howling wind with sleet or buried in snow.

Been years since I lived at home in Scotland (although frequent trips home to stock up on patter and tattie scones), even longer since I’ve been proper biking up there.

That was a great article, and the piccies make me homesick. Alps are nice n’all, but ye cannae beat a guid scottish view to get the chest swelling.

Kev

I really enjoyed that post, Druidh.
Thanks.

That looks like a great place to be. Not my kind of ride by the looks of things, but it’s nice to see folk out in the real wilds.

Lovely write up – ’tis stunning up there

Well done Druidh , always enjoy reading your trail reports and stories. Hope you are well .

Enjoyed that, and some good pics too

Thanks for all the nice responses. If nothing else, it’ll have provided a few moments lunchtime distraction for some folk.

TJ – as 13fm says, the track carries on over the shoulder of A’ Mhaighdean and on to Shenavall. You then have an often difficult river crossing. A nearby alternative is to do a loop from Corrie Hallie, past Loch a ‘Bhraoin and back along the Detsitution Road.

😀 that’s all i’ve got to say on the matter.

Wonderful!

Dead Jealous.

That looks cracking.
You seem to have a knack of spotting things on the map(the causeway) which form the basis for some exploring.
Have to head up there now!
Think it was you who started a thread a couple of years ago about this bridge under Loch Loyne which I then had to check out.

Keep them coming!

That bridge has been on my list for a while now as well! 😀

Well thats just about the best piece of mtb journalism I’ve read for a while

+1

That’s the sort of thing that reminds me why we go riding. Fantastic photos too.

Good stuff

Great read that’s the stuff its all about, thanks for sharing

Nice, hope you got lots of pondering and reflecting time in there too.

good to read,

work firewall means i will be back tonight to see the pics.

:mleh: