As a Solaris owner I’m just interested to know really. (Slow, boring day at work!)

If so, what set up do you have? Or did you change anything, etc?

Thanks in advance.

Yep! When I had mine – a couple of stage races, 12 and 24hrs too. American Classic wheels and other pimpy bits got it to about 20lbs.

My A Quick Release team mates have just ridden theirs at the World 24hr Solo champs. Both have 100mm forks and reasonably light builds. They can be a bit harsh after many hours in the saddle but as long as wheels and seat post aren’t too stiff then they’ve been great.

I rode several xc races and a 12 hour night race on mine. Wouldn’t be my first choice if I was properly competitive, but it was fun and comfortable

I could probably manage top ten in a ten man race, but I’m not a racer, but marathons, all day rides yet the solaris is great.

to about 20lbs

Really??
Mine’s an XL, but struggling to see how I could shed 6-7lbs.
In any race where the bike weight will make an appreciable difference, then no, it’s not for racing. For long events, trail riding and a big grin – it’s in the breakaway I reckon.

I put the lightest bits I can on scavenge together on mine. Based on the aforementioned aqr lot, it can go a lot lighter!

If you’re going to do it, it’s all in the details. Starting off with a 5lb frame is never going to be the best place to start from to make a lightweight XC bike (I asked a similar question about my own bike months ago, with a 4lb frameset)… But crucially as the frame is dead weight, then it’s one of the least important areas to lose weight overall.

Wheels and Tyres will make the single biggest difference to how the bike rides. Borrowed a pair of 1600g wheels shod with super light Maxxis Ikon’s when I did 24/12 solo last year. They saved almost 1kg of rotating weight compared to the wheels and tyres I was running at the time! Look at something like the Light Bikes carbon rims built into DT swiss 240 hubs or the like, with very light spokes, and you should be coming in at around 1500g but still plenty stiff. Then just pick the light, fast rubber of your choice and don’t forget to run tubeless.

Beyond that… Don’t get hung up on things like lightweight saddles and grips. If you’re spending lots of time on the bike, comfortable contact points that you know you can rely on make all the difference.

Drivetrain wise, you can save plenty of weight by going to 1x 9/10/11. But… You need to know you can get the hearing right to suit, and if you can’t get a 1x setup to go low enough for your own requirements, then it would have a detrimental effect on your performance far more than the weight saving would otherwise realise.

If you really want to compete, you’ll find a way to throw money at carbon or titanium for everything on the bike. Otherwise just make sure you’ve got some light/fast wheels and tyres, and don’t worry too much about everything else. Enjoy it for what it is, a test of your own personal abilities, not so much those of the bike.

Thanks to all who contributed to the thread.

I’m not a serious racer by a long shot but gave thought about some kind of event with my son. He is super fit and I have to rely on years of technique to keep the balance! But we have thought of doing some kind of ‘big’ (endurance) event together. He has my old 29er, a Spesh Carve Expert.

My Solaris build isn’t too bad. 100mm forks, 1×10 XT with Hope N/W, xt brakes, Hope tech xc pro 2 wheels, etc.

@sok – any online info on the team bike builds, etc?

Yep! When I had mine – a couple of stage races, 12 and 24hrs too. American Classic wheels and other pimpy bits got it to about 20lbs.

You sure? I’ve got sram xx1, Reynolds carbon wheels and a rigid decent carbon fork in the front of my alloy kenesis and its 23lbs.

I think the aqr builds are along the lines of what mboy said- light wheels and tyres and then save other weight where possible with carbon bars etc.

Yeah can’t see a 5lb frame getting to be a 20lb build without rigid SS and some very pimpy bits. It would be a sub 17lb build on a light carbon frame!

As said though, you can make any bike acceptable in a race situation with some light bits, may not be the best tool for the job, but it’ll be adequate. FWIW I’ve got Light Bicycle rims with American Classic hubs and Revolutions, and they’re 1370g.

Echo what everyone says, if you’re there just to survive & have fun then steel ht’s are more than adequate, make sure contact points are as comfortable as possible and well trusted, 15 hours down the line you’ll not want to be worrying about a new creak (beyond your knees!). In the end though it’s down to positive mental attitude and riding away the demons 😈