[Closed] XR2 or XR3 in 2.2 for...

XR2

XR3

Both look like fun but I'd prefer to play in the XR2

Xr2 every time. Didn't it have the twin sequential carbs on?

XR3 if you want a bit of grip, grippier than a Ralph

Isn't that an XR3[b][u]i[/u][/b]?

RS1600?

XR2 was RWD, wasn't it?

If so, then the XR3 might be best as its FWD (I think)

Sigh...

XR4(x4) was the nice one, with turbo technics conversion. Iirc.

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Pahh to the above , a RS200 is what you really need.
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Hi Kryton.

You're from my neck of the woods so I'll give you a sensible answer.
I really like Bontrager tyres, they are the benchmark for easy tubeless mounting and are a nice balance of light weight and durability.

I've used most of the range so speak from experience.

xr1: Good small nobble tyre. No complaints, as good as any small nobble tyre. Use it for endurance Gorrick events in dry conditions.

Xr2: bought it as a front for loose Gorrick loam but despite a promising looking tread pattern proved disappointing in the real world.

Xr4: The secret that I'll share with you (and the rest of STW); Frickin awesome levels of grip combined with a pliant yet durable casing. Comes up large.

I use a 2.35 old pattern (the best)at 16 psi on my rigid 26'er for most Gorrick events now (place about 10th in Super Masters, have won Masters on this tyre in wet conditions). Also use a 2.35 new pattern on my Blue Pig when playing silly beggers in Wales. Great, great tyre.

Thanks 'doughnut. I have xr4's f&r for my SS and really like them for the reasons you describe.

You reckon they are good fir XC racing then? I'm entering Beastway which is rumoured to start again, at Hog Hill, so might try one of the xr4s on the front?

A bit heavy though.

Comes up large.

I've been looking for a realworld size guide. How wide are the 2.35 XR4s, if you don't mind getting your calipers out (if you have some)...?

Teasel mine is 59mm e2e of the tread inflated at 28 psi on a 21mm rim

I focus on Gorricks where I feel cornering trumps easy rolling hence using xr4 front as default. If it's any help, using any tyre combinations I place about the same. It's all about the legs. Enjoy!

I've started road racing, well mainly crits, this year. It appears that tactics and timing may well be as important as the legs, hallelujah!

Ha - you and me both - thanks for the tip I'll try it on the front next time out.

Anyone wan't a cheap 2.4 Rocket Ron, used twice 😕

59mm e2e of the tread inflated at 28 psi on a 21mm rim

Nice one, I'll measure up tomorrow.

How does that 2.4 Ron size up...?

The Ron is 62mm e2e by my measure. However that's not the whole story - is a much taller tire than the Bonty leaving about 4mm clearance under a mucky nuts fitted Sid fork brace as opposed to 6-7mm with the other. It's of snakeskin variety and although this effect doesn't get felt on my snakeskin Nics the Ron completely screws my rebound.

As you know teasel, this could be a fork issue also...

Why such massive tyres for racing? I can understand it on a rigid 26er but surely it's overkill on owt with suspension dahn sarf.

Anything over a 2.1 feels too big IME.

That's exactly what I want fatties for - rigid carbon set up.

I think the Rons will be too big for my frame, Kryton, so I'll leave them.

Nobby I bought that Ron out of desperation for a snakeskin Ron in the hope it would come up small. If I bought and xr3 it'd be in smaller width to match the 2.1 Ralph out back.

teasel - Member
That's exactly what I want fatties for - rigid carbon set up.

The Xr4's on my SS rigid are bloody awesome in a whole variety of conditions and surprisingly fast rolling. I'd thoroughly recommend them for your setup.

I'll have a measure in an hour or so and if all's good, I'll stick in an order.

I thought this thread was about those sh1ty cars Ford produced after the rear wheel drive RS range. I drove both these XR models and thought they were complete shite compared to the older models - FWIW. 🙂

Nope, you are all wrong the XR2 and 3 were front wheel drive. The XR2 had the old pushrod crossflow engine with a SINGLE twin choke Webber and the XR3 the CVH engine with similar carb before they went fuel injection.

Tyres, no idea…….. 😉

Nobby I bought that Ron out of desperation for a snakeskin Ron in the hope it would come up small

Wanna try a 2.25 snakeskin? Got a pair knocking around somewhere.

Nope, you are all wrong the XR2 and 3 were front wheel drive. The XR2 had the old pushrod crossflow engine with a SINGLE twin choke Webber and the XR3 the CVH engine with similar carb before they went fuel injection.

Except that is a mk2 XR2 and that has the CVH engine like the XR3. 😆

I thought they were ok put agreed that they just weren't close to the old RWD RS models. Shame.

What about the XR8?
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http://www.pistonheads.com/news/default.asp?storyId=29829

Like an XR4i but with a V8 😀

The Mk2 oh that one! 😉

At least with the MK1 you could do interesting things with the engine, basically it's the same as the guys were using in their Mexicos on the TV the other night. It would be a bit skippy/lively being front wheel drive though!

Have you ever heard of the Gartrack Escort? A company 'Gartrack' took a new XR3 and put a 2.8i Capri engine in it. Modded everything and made a rear wheel drive monster! I did have a brochure for it some where.

Nobby - Member
Nobby I bought that Ron out of desperation for a snakeskin Ron in the hope it would come up small
Wanna try a 2.25 snakeskin? Got a pair knocking around somewhere.

Oh, yes please - as long as its not the god aweful TLR...

What? They made old xr's in rwd?! Pics please! While I'm sure the tyres are interesting, can we have a separate thread on old crappy fords please?

Fiesta xr all front drive they made a rear drive xr3 shaped escort think it was called the rs1700.

They did, only 18 so the internet says as rally development cars.

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Oh, yes please - as long as its not the god aweful TLR...

Sorry, they're TLRs.

...loose over hardpack XC racing? Which makes the best front? It'll be paired with a RRalph on the rear.

XR2 and XR3 and kind of "nothing" tyres IME. They don't really do anything particularly well. XR1 and XR4 are great but neither is ideal as a general, fast front tyre for firmer conditions. At the risk of asking a daft question, what is wrong with a Ralph front and rear or even Ralph front, Burt rear? I am constantly amazed by how Ralph's perform in a range of conditions. I don't really get on with Ron's like most people do but love Ralphs for a bit of everything when you expect the trails to be mostly dry which seems to be the conditions you describe in the original post...

My first car was an XR3 with an XR3i engine in it. Two completely different shades of red. Cost me £375. Insurance was £650. For six months. Good times!

DanW - at the risk of a flaming - if I'm honest I've just been too nervous to rye a Ralph up front. Plus I'm really fed up of trying to seat TLR schwalbes tubeless, which is putting me off buying a new one.

Same for me. Got fed up with Shwalbe inconsistency. Bonty's ALWAYS seat with a few pumps; they don't even need soap/water or indeed any sealant to get them inflated. They will hold pressure completely dry for 24hrs. Plus they are slightly tougher and £15 cheaper.

The non Tlrs go up with a track pump. The Tlrs cost me a co2 cartridge.

I do have a new TLR nic in the shed - maybe I should try that first.... I'm not sure I have the will power....

Can't say I've had any more problems seating schwalbe than any other tyre really. Mind you, I do cheat these days & use the Nobbyflator VII. 🙂

I've still got non TLR (and TLR) Ralphs if you do want to try another one? I don't get how you can be 'too nervous' to put one on the front, they've got more aggressive tread on the shoulders than a Ron!

Thanks for the offer - but are any snakeskin?

Definitely give the Ralphs a go! You'll surprise yourself 😀

I can't say anything bad about getting Schwalbe tyres to seat. If you have a decent technique to setting up tubeless then they are no harder than anything else. Never had one I couldn't get on with a track pump.

Conversely, the Bonty tyres I've had in the past go on reasonably well but seem to lose the integrity of the bead (it seems to stretch somehow and go a bit floppy) which means they start becoming a liability for popping off before the tread has come to the end of its life. I guess different rims might factor in here but that is just my experience. Yes, they tend to have thicker sidewalls but with considerable weight gain over the equivalent Schwalbe. Given how cheap Schwalbe are in the German stores price isn't a factor anymore either.

I would really give the Ralphs a try. If it is dry to mostly dry then you can ride anywhere with more than enough grip, certainly Gorrick style terrain. I rode a couple of hours last night in Cotswold slop on RR front and rear and despite a few interesting moments (I wouldn't normally using them for such wet trail but was too lazy to swap tyres) the Ralphs are remarkably capable. A Nobby Nic won't add anything over a Ralph besides weight and maybe some mental relief 😉 Snakeskin is also unnecessary as most people tend to get cuts to the tread area where both types of carcass are identical. The normal casing might get scuffed up quicker than a Bonty tyre but you'd be very unlikely to have a catastrophic failure.

Normal Ralph is the way to go! 😀

If you really can't mentally get around the idea of a Ralph then a cut Bonty Mud-X is a very left field option although it will be quite a bit slower rolling than the Ralph, even with the central knobs trimmed...

Ralph snakeskin £29 on bikediscount.de

Hmmmm...

£28 on R2-Bike and they'll even pick the lightest tyre from stock for you for free... break out the inner weenie! 😀

10euro shipping!

Buy another tyre or some other Weightweenie bling to bring the basket above EUR50, then free shipping. I can always find stuff to buy on R2-Bike 😀