After 6 months deciding what bike i should get for my first sus, i finally picked up a T130rs a few weeks ago. No mods just yet although i found the standard Whyte grips way too soft for me so these were replaced for Ergon’s straight away. Loving the bike so far. i mainly use it for riding the local pennine bridleways etc and occasionally i will visit the trails, so far i have taken it to coed llandegla, Lee quarry, Gisburn forest. The bike has proven to be a perfect all-rounder for me. Very pleased with my choice!

20170714_145519 by Neil Hodgson – Flickr2BBcode LITE
2017rs..bought July 2016 from Wheelbase.
With regard to rascals post above regarding trail boss / vigilante tyre set up ..Im a fan ..tubeless they have never let me down on both trail centre ..Kielder / Hamsterley/ Whinlatter/ Glentress Ae.Natural.. Lakeland/ Dales/ NYM /N.Pennines/ Highlands / Cairngorms etc…through all seasons…
Will probably switch to Maxxis again at some stage to compare but rascal at least give them a go ..and tubeless at that ..
Hope you enjoy your bike ..I spent 10years on a gen1 Nomad..and couldn’t believe how much of a difference this bike made to my riding ..love it !

Cheers Neil – I think I will try them tubeless.
Only had a short local ride on Sunday and it made me smile 🙂
Changed grips for Easton lockons as I like to handle a wider girth…oh and put some shiny Shimano 540 pedals on.
Second outing Sat am beckons!

I picked up a new 2017 T130 S at my LBS for just under 2K 2 weeks ago as they were making room for the 2018 stock.
I’ve only ridden 33.5 miles (according to Strava) on it and today it has gone back to the LBS as the bottom bracket has started to go already!

Still love it to bits mind.

Hello chaps and lasses, just joined this forum so I thought I’d upload a pic of my 2017 130 RS. Absolutely love this bike to bits! It does everything.
Anyway, I’ve only done a few mods to it, such as Easton lock-ons, Bel Air ti saddle (stock saddle too unforgiving on my bony ass), Saint pedals, Raceface crank arm protectors and converted to tubeless.
I’m not sure how the rear Trail Boss is going to handle the gloop of our winters, as I find it spins out too easy when the going gets mucky. I’ll probably swap it out for a Vigilante in fast rolling guise. That’s if any of you guys can recommend anything else?

Superram – I’ve literally just put some Easton lockons on mine too.
How did you find the tubeless conversion? I’m sticking with these tyres too – just deflated front tyre to see if there are rim tapes in there…glad to see there are. Hoping it’s as easy take out tubes, put valves and Stans in, inflate and job done….please tell me it is that easy!

It really is as easy as that. Like you say, wheels are already rim taped up, so it’s just a case of fitting the valves, filling them with sealant and off you go. I did mine via a compressor and they seated within seconds. They haven’t lost any air too.

Nice one Super…will sort this week before a couple of rides next weekend.

Nice one Super…will sort this week before a couple of rides next weekend.

No probs mate, it really is a doddle.

Saw loads of these at BPW the other week, popular bike and seemed very capable….then I strayed into Go Outdoors in Swansea yesterday and was surprised by the similarity to the Bossnut…i suppose imitation is the sincerest form but I couldn’t decide if it cheapened the Whyte or gave Kudos to the Calibre?!
Anyway, the Bossnut was so well finished that if I’d had my credit card on me I’d have been walking out with one and sticking a 140mm Revelation on the front instead of the nasty Silver Sektor, other than that it was a great bike.

How have you got on with the WTB Trail Boss/Vigilante tyre combo?

Only tried 1 ride ….. it seems incredibly heavy for marginal grip .
As it happens I just stuck the vigilante on the rear (yesterday) as it seems to love loosing grip on corners… and I’m off to Cannop for 3 days uplift but I’m taking a spare tyre (a 2.4 RR as I have one) for the rear as I simply don’t trust the tyres…

In other news … yesterday I finally put in the 140mm airshaft in the new Pike… my 0W30 arrived mid week but I’ve yet to try it…

I tried the Pike last weekend @130mm and it felt different in terms of the bike balance/geometry to the Revelation… maybe the A/C is lower with Sag … but not bad.. just different… tried again on Saturday and starting to feel more normal then switched the airshaft Sunday

I now put on the 50mm stem from Patriot pro (cheers) and it got rid of the heavy and unsightly White Truvative …

Switching the airshaft was easy except that circlip …. at least I din’t want to risk scratching the 130mm airshaft and I think it took an hour using the crappy bike stand.(but sticking a cable tie end in when compressed was the way I got it off)Putting it back after ….. in the end I used a vice to hold it whilst I put it back in and after 30 minutes asked the OH for help… 2 people it was easy .. I just struggled pushing in the airshaft and compressing the circlip and pushing the circlip in….

TBH I wasn’t sure what you’re meant to do with the plastic tang the circlip goes around… (the MBR vid says push it aside or something but I wasn’t really sure what that means)

Wondering if anyone has fitted some form of downtube/bb area protection?
Rockguardz do these carbon wraps, but has anyone used similar/something else?

No pic but https://www.rockguardz.com/rockguardz/whyte-t130-429.html

https://www.rockguardz.com/rockguardz/whyte-t130.html

Electrical insulation tape 🙂

My large frame T130 RS with upgraded Debonair Plus RC3 is going to be up for sale in the next couple of weeks once I have swapped over the parts onto my new Aeris.

The carbon T130 has a rubber protector at the bottom of the downtube/bottom bracket area…anyone know off Whyte sell them aftermarket? Mate has one on his Works version – I wouldn’t mind one of mine. Had its 2nd and 3rd outings this weekend – what a bloody great bike! (2017 T130RS).

Evening bump…

You never see Whyte parts listed anywhere, but a Whyte dealer should be able to order you one in I’d have thought. They are able to get the cable grommets and other various bits I’ve asked about previously.

Alternatively, you could try this: https://www.tritoncycles.co.uk/frames-forks-c6/frame-fork-spares-c152/remedy-29-2014-carbon-armour-kit-p12605

I know the Transition boys use them on both carbon and alloy frames, should fit pretty much anything…

In the meantime here’s yet another T130 picture… This time at the top of Win Hill in the Peak District (Ladybower in the background)

Protection. I had the invisframe kit fitted to my frame, and in fairness it is pretty much invisible against the T130s bright orange. For a recent trip to alps used old innertubes wrapped like roadie bar tape on downtube, drive side chain stay, and lower fork legs. This was both to protect the bike on the rack for the trip from rubbing against other bikes, but also from rock strikes etc. On my return I decided I had done a neat enough job to leave the fork and chainstay protection in place, and just took the down tube wrap off. A single 29’r innertube does the whole down tube neatly and completely.

Just a question, I saw some people had fitted 140mm forks, I’m toying with the idea of upgrading the Yari to a Pike and increasing the travel / running more sag. Anyone done this?

I’ve never ran my T130 at 130mm, upped it to 140 on day one. I have the boost Pike from my bike in the ‘must get around to selling’ pile if you are interested? I’ve got both 130 and 140mm travel springs.

I changed mine from 130 to 140, only because I run then at 50psi to get the right sag and then they sit 10mm into their travel. Not the usual sag issues as I found anything over 60psi and they don’t sag when unweighted. Its an issue I find with most single air Rockshox.

Chaps

There seems to be a lot of you swapping the stock wheels. Forgive my ignorance but can i ask why this would be necessary?

I am currently running on the standard wheels and tyres but due to replace both tyres soon and i’m wondering if i would benefit from replacing the wheels whilst i’m at it?

I mostly ride local bridleway paths etc with the odd visit to a trail centre

If i decide to keep my standard wheels, what tyres would you recommend please?

I changed the wheels on my 2017 C RS as the stock Raceface/Whyte wheels were bloody heavy by my standards, just over 2kg bare and I really loathe carrying around wheels that heavy! I swapped to a Pro4/Arch Mk3 hadn built set that come in just 1.7kg for the pair and the bike feels much, much better. Just feels so much livelier. I’d like to go even lighter really, but then you’re carbon realms and I’d struggle to justify it as I’d do it properly, DT have some super nice XMC 1200’s for 2018 that use a 30mm ID carbon rim and weigh just over 1.4kg but they are silly money. I don’t think it helps that the bikes are fairly portly anyway, stock mine was well over 30lbs without pedals and even now with ligher wheels and a carbon bar it’s still just over 30lbs with pedals fitted. Maybe the carbon front end is overbuilt and the I’m sure the alloy back end doesn’t help, but while it feels solid stiffness wise I’ve ridden others that feel just as solid but are substantially lighter. If they could trim a bit more weight from the frame and wheels as stock they’d make a sensationally good bike even better!

I’ve emailed Whyte twice in the last week about potentially buying a rubber downtube/bb protector – no response whatsoever – sure they say they’ll be back within a couple of days. No tel number either. Not exactly important in the big scheme of things but pretty naff from them. Hope they’re not this slack if I ever have a proper bike issue with them 😕

Chaps

There seems to be a lot of you swapping the stock wheels. Forgive my ignorance but can i ask why this would be necessary?

I am currently running on the standard wheels and tyres but due to replace both tyres soon and i’m wondering if i would benefit from replacing the wheels whilst i’m at it?

I mostly ride local bridleway paths etc with the odd visit to a trail centre

If i decide to keep my standard wheels, what tyres would you recommend please?

The stock wheels were damned heavy….. and feel it …
However I don’t know if that’s going to bother you riding local bridleways .. but then is the T-130 the right bike for that… I suppose to depends on you’re bridleways… mine I would take a hard tail but yours might be a different grade…

rascal – Member
I’ve emailed Whyte twice in the last week about potentially buying a rubber downtube/bb protector – no response whatsoever – sure they say they’ll be back within a couple of days. No tel number either. Not exactly important in the big scheme of things but pretty naff from them. Hope they’re not this slack if I ever have a proper bike issue with them

They couldn’t be arsed replying to the 3 emails I sent them either…

I now put on the 50mm stem from Patriot pro (cheers)

You’re very welcome, appreciate the swift and easy transaction, good comms too. cheers.

PS – be sure to get an updated pic of the bike up when you can

Just a question, I saw some people had fitted 140mm forks, I’m toying with the idea of upgrading the Yari to a Pike and increasing the travel / running more sag. Anyone done this?

I swapped the Revelation 130’s to Pike 130’s and it felt a bit weird (not sure how to describe that) .. but after upgrading the Pikes to 140mm it then stopped being weird and just felt like more travel, stiffer and plusher…

I didn’t actually bother checking the numbers like the A/C as I figured .. they stick Pike on anyway… but to my mind it feels better at 140mm than 130mm…
3 Days at FOD on the uplift and I’m loving the upgrade and pedalling round Swinley and Summer Lightning since it hasn’t affected the climbing … if anything it might be slightly better as the LSC feels much better.

PS – be sure to get an updated pic of the bike up when you can

Will do but trying to avoid back garden shots 😀 (especially in the rain)
Also considering putting the carbon wheels back on… I ran FOD with the stock rear but using the stock front tyre and a Hans Dampf on the front… so I’m considering pulling them off and sticking them on the Carbon wheels which barely get used on the XC bike…

I’m thinking I’ll pull the shock off and do a service as well and also considering going back to 1×10 as the 42T cassette just acts like a 10 speed at the moment as I never use the 42T and I just gave my 34T N/W to the kid.. maybe if I stick a decent back tyre on I’ll find a use for the 42T but currently traction gives out first and I don’t want a longer stem again 😀

Thanks for advise on the wheels. For now i am going to stick with the heavy wheels and maybe look to upgrade a few bits for next summer to lighten the load. I will be taking a trip to Dalby Forest for the first time next weekend, i imagine it is going to be a wet one. What tyres would you suggest for Dalby and for use over the winter months please?

rascal – Member
I’ve emailed Whyte twice in the last week about potentially buying a rubber downtube/bb protector – no response whatsoever – sure they say they’ll be back within a couple of days. No tel number either. Not exactly important in the big scheme of things but pretty naff from them. Hope they’re not this slack if I ever have a proper bike issue with them

Lots of similar experience if the user on Whyte Owners FB group are anything to go by. Lots of success contacting Whyte through FB tho apparently.

Cheers pp – have FBd them – let’s count the days til I get a response!

Called ATB Sales and spoke to Russ there who was very helpful.
Answered straight away and called back with an answer having spoken to one of the design team.
They offered a protector for the carbon works up to the alu RS and shape very different so a no-go there.
Good phone response – shite web response is wot I lernt today 😉

I have a 2015 T-130 Works with the ROAM40 wheelset which are light, narrow and have terrible bearings!

My current issue with them is a freewheel that no longer clicks when free wheeling and has failed to engage i.e. no drive when pedalling. I’ve stripped it down and cleaned it, added a small amount of grease but still no click. I’m guessing it’s either totally knackered pawls (they look fine) or that the drive ring is worn although it doesn’t look terrible. Anyone had a similar experience pr have any ideas about where the click has gone?

Rascal – look at the Remedy one I linked earlier. It should be ok from my guess.

Anyone put frame protection on? Someone mentioned invisiframe earlier? Is the 2017 frame shape as the 2018?

I invisiframe’d my 2017 C-RS.

Very fiddly, plan on a whole evening and don’t rush it. Put some music on and grab a beer. First few were extremely frustrating, but after getting into the hang of it (and probably the beer) it got easier and more relaxing.

The kit and coverage is very good though. As far as I know the 2018 frame should be the same.

I emailed Invisiframe and they said the 17 and 18 frames are the same.

I bought a 2×1′ sheet from Shackwrap for £32 posted.
Made templates from paper that covered the key areas which took ages, then used those to cut the matte film out. Looks pretty good tbh but when you factor in the time it’s prob worth paying the £72 and knowing you get the coverage with a bespoke kit. Use a squirty bottle with water and baby shampoo and keep everything wet, including your fingers and frame. Float the pieces on the mist on the bike and when you’re happy with the position just squeegee the water out with a credit card. You need to be patient on curves etc but worth it.

I know rear shock upgrades that fit are a hot topic… j-tech have supplied me a stx-22 tuned for the frame – is amazing, and rven better fits with no issues.

Really economical with its travel, nice and sensitive and shrugs of big hits and landings well.

<img src=”https://thumb.ibb.co/jpeA4F/IMG_4436.jpg&#8221; alt=”IMG_4436″ border=”0″> <img src=”https://thumb.ibb.co/gDnKya/IMG_4437.jpg&#8221; alt=”IMG_4437″ border=”0″>" alt="" title="" class="bbcode-image" />