- Whyte T130 show and tell
Now with Pike 140mm goodness and the short but matching stem…. still with the rear Whyte/WTB wheel with the supplied front tyre on the back… and still with the short hoses I need to think about changing t route internally at some point…
Almost new (a few rides at FOD but not really pedalling) Nano-X pedal failed already… after a max 2-3 miles of actual pedalling!!! Pulled it apart last night and the inside was dirty .. not really bad but the grease was going black… so not sure if the seal was fitted badly or the end cap wasn’t fully fitted and let in water/mud … but I pulled the axle it and cleaned it and put it back together…. I might strip it again before riding and take the seal and give it a proper clean and redo.Posted 6 months ago
Thanks for advise on the wheels. For now i am going to stick with the heavy wheels and maybe look to upgrade a few bits for next summer to lighten the load. I will be taking a trip to Dalby Forest for the first time next weekend, i imagine it is going to be a wet one. What tyres would you suggest for Dalby and for use over the winter months please?
I don’t know Dalby but it doesn’t seem specifically sharp rocks …
Rear tyres are if anything more contentious than front… in that its the compromise between fast rolling and grip … and even how much grip .. some people like the back to slide more …
That said I can say I’m actually pretty happy with the front Trail Boss 2.25 as supplied on the back… except it does feel a bit heavy… and the Hans Dampf on the front which is an OK general tyre… (not astounding at anything but pretty good at most)
This is a pretty cheap way to try … you only need buy one tyre… and you can always switch back the rear tyre if it feels too draggy on long rides…
Most of that will be what you ride…. how fast you want to ride it etc.
Personally I’ll ride a bit slower overall if it means more grip on places I’m likey to break something
(We just did 3 days uplift at FOD and ideally I’d have stuck a really big tyre on and put the Hans Dampf on the back … that said I’d ordered some big (2.5) tyres for Jnr … that didn’t arrive in time and he ended up on his Rocket Rons which were OK) but we rode swinley yesterday and he wasn’t even for trying the DH tyres 😀 (smart move I’d say)
For now i am going to stick with the heavy wheels and maybe look to upgrade a few bits for next summer to lighten the load.
I’d try and stick the money away so you can pounce on any deals….
My Superstar Rims/Hubs are way better than the supplied wheels… and I paid the same as a couple of tyres for them… (£100 New Year Sale)
Retrospectively what I should have done was pay about the extra £40 or £50 they were doing on the Stans on the New Years deal… but hey we live and learn….but either way there often seems to be good deals on upper-mid-range wheels from various places and you just need to have decided what you are keeping an eye out for… I reckon with the current resurge of 29ers there could be a few stock adjustments and hence bargains on 27.5 …Posted 6 months agooakesy2001ukMember
Im really impressed with the stx, way better than the monarch in every way. Very composed without losing the playful feel.Posted 6 months ago
Small adjustment range – all setting you can actually use, the middle is the reccomendation for weight and rising style ( anpretty much spot on).
I dont feel the need for a climb switch with it, its still nicely plush witha but of lsc dialled in.
I believe the climb switch controlls the hsc threshhold, but also moves the lsc. It feels plenty firm anyway. Not a lock out – like the ccdb but without the slow rebound I’d say.
Had another great ride on mine at the weekend on the super steep trails at the Wrekin. Still such a fun bike and capable on pretty much any terrain.
Oakesy – I like the lockout/climb switch not to stop pedal bob, but to prop the back end up on steep climbs. Makes it more comfortable and keeps the front end down a bit. I guess I run the rear shock quite soft so you get a lot of sag from weight transfer when it goes up steep. The CCDB and Monarch both seem to prop up quite well, sounds like the Ohlins does similar?Posted 6 months ago
Just back from a big weekend in the Lakes on the T130..
Nan Bield on Friday in torrential rain and 40mph winds
Helvellyn on Saturday (up Dollywagon and down Sticks) in thick cloud and high winds
A bit more of a gentle one over Boredale Hause Pass on the Sunday morning.
Happy to report the T130 was brilliant throughout. For a short travel, capable climber it absolutely blasts down the rocky descents with massive confidence and was great fun everywhere!Posted 5 months agocogglepinSubscriber
Just a quick one Guys, while I was cleaning my T130 c-rs 2018 model I turned it upside down and noticed that the plastic cable guide that holds the brake and rear mech cable was causing some nasty cable rub.Posted 5 months ago
I’ve only ridden it three times so its gone quite quickly. Took the guide off and cable tied it.
jayx2a – Member
Watching a large T130s on ebay with interest! Don’t see many coming up for sale and do love the T130s!
There’s one or two on the Whyte Facebook group up for sale – the last I saw was stoke-on-trent.
I don’t know the seller/no affiliation etc but if you want me to put you in touch just let me know.Posted 5 months ago
Just a quick one Guys, while I was cleaning my T130 c-rs 2018 model I turned it upside down and noticed that the plastic cable guide that holds the brake and rear mech cable was causing some nasty cable rub.
I’ve only ridden it three times so its gone quite quickly. Took the guide off and cable tied it.
Mine was rubbing through the outer pretty badly, so i taped it up with electrical tape.Posted 5 months ago
How are people getting on with the WTB tyres?Posted 5 months ago
Managed to put holes in the sidewall of my rear Trailboss in the Lakes this weekend – looking to change it anyway as not sure it’ll be much good doing the winter months. Strange position to get a puncture as right next to the rim – bunged an anchovy in but not holding up too well, then found air coming out of other side of tyre (not directly opposite) – was descending on slate at time. What have you changed to if you’re not running these tyres anymore?
Ok fellow T130ers…a few questions:
Have you swapped out your Whyte stem and if so what did you go for?
Mudguards (rear) – Mudhuggers seem to be the popular choice amongst bikers in general. Anyone fitted one to a T130? All good and worth it?
Fitting bottle to frame…can only get a small bottle in, then someone I ride with suggested getting a side entry cage/holder….anyone done this and can you run a full 750ml bottle ok?
PS Still absolutely loving the RS 🙂Posted 4 months ago
Yep, running a 50mm Chromag Ranger stem because its nice and matches the bars.
Mudguards? MTFU. A front is acceptable, a rear is just wrong. Buy Waterproof clothing.
Running a side entry Syncros Carbon cage on my Large T130C RS and can easily run a 750ml Camelback bottle.Posted 4 months ago
Interesting comment about the mudguard. I don’t like them either but they do stop crap getting everywhere…back of top, all over Camelbak, all Reverb.Posted 4 months ago
Can get a nice Thomson stem at a good price but no NEED to change it…it’s just very nice and i think I can live with the fact it isn’t the same brand as the RF Atlas bars 😉windysurferMember
Had my 2015 T130 for 3 year now and it’s covered nearly 5000 miles.
It’s had the bars, grips and stem changed and pikes extended to 140mm but other than that it still in standard form.
I run a mudhugger, front all year and a rear during the winter.Looks crap but keeps me dry.
Cracking bike.Posted 4 months ago
Quick update…. I found an almost unused ML3 tune and stuck it on… (took the aircan off to clean before I mounted and it was spotless inside) … its no lockout but doesn’t seem to suffer and small bump sensitivity is better.
I’m planning on perhaps trying a couple of volume reducers though I was doing some fairly big (for me) jumps yesterday (@UK Bike Skills) and didn’t quite bottom out …
I did however find my bearings need changing and the main pivot came loose. Got a weekend @FOD with uplift booked so I’ll get that out of the way 1st…Posted 2 months ago
I did my bearings last night for the first time, i’m amazed they’ve lasted almost 2 years!
I just used a mix of appropriately sized sockets and a bolt through the middle to press the old bearings out, and sockets and a vice the press the new ones in. Same as any other frame really. I did pop the seals and fill the new bearings with xhp222 before fitting.Posted 2 months ago
Cheers Bacon ….
I’ve never replaced linkage bearings before so its a bit of a unknown as to how easy/hard to get out… less worried about out as if you don’t mind wrecking the bearings one way or another they come out 😀
I’d imagined using some washers/sockets as an improvised press and being able to get away without completely dismantling the rear triangle… ??
(The ML3 is very nice…. btw)Posted 2 months agohighpeakriderSubscriber
Must admit I like 130mm but i’m not great on technical down hills, I’ve got lots of muscle scaring from a back op and have a fear of going over the bars and knackering my back.
I tend to increase the compression on the technical downs to give the fork a bit more support, you might also gain 10mm back if you increased the fork pressure reducing sag a little.
I’ve got the new Revalation fork so I could replace the spring if required.Posted 2 months ago
How are folks who have upgraded to 140mm forks finding the ride? I’m toying with the idea as I’ve always had bikes with mismatched travel and find I’m lacking confidence in the front end of the T130, thinking an extra 10mm of cush might be the way forward!
I’m loving it!Posted 2 months ago
At £30 its something you can just try … presuming you do your own lower leg services and don’t have to buy oil specially… and have some good circlip pliers (mine were rubbish and getting the ciclip on/off was 90% of the time) and if its not suited then put the old shaft back.
May be of interest…
There’s a guy on FB Whyte Owners Group selling a 2016 never-ridden large T130 carbon works.Posted 2 months ago
Bought new at Edinburgh bike shop – injured hence not used.
He wants £2500 for it…was £4500. A mate of mine has that bike…it’s bloody lovely.
A bargain beckons for someone.
It’s a closed group but I can pass on details if you’re not on there.
Been through a right service/warranty journey with my Monarch RT3 off the T130, but hopefully the end is in sight after 4 weeks without a bike and I’ll have a shiny new Monarch Plus in ML tune in hands later today. How have folks who’ve changed to this shock been finding it? Presuming it’s a bit more supple than the standard Monarch? I am bit concerned it’ll affect climbing performance, has anyone noticed an increase in pedal bob when they changed over?Posted 1 month ago
I run a Monarch Plus on mine, they also swapped my broken OEM RT3 for a Plus RC3 (SRAM said they aren’t making the RT3 in 216×63 anymore hence all swaps will get a new Plus RC3).
You might find the ML tune a bit over damped on compression still, the T130 as standard uses an ML3 tune, i.e. medium rebound, low-3 compression tune (around 25% less compression damping compared to a low tune from what I can tell). I bought an ML3 tune assembly (main piston with the correct shim stack attached) for about £20 and swapped it out myself.
I really like the Monarch Plus overall though, very supple and the 3 position lever is great, not a complete lockout but very useable on off-road climbs. Middle position can give you a bit more platform on smoother trails too.Posted 1 month ago
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