Whyte 19 Steel

Hi Stw,

What are your opinions on the Whyte 19 Steel ? Clicky

Any major manufacturing/ reliability problems to consider? I know v.little about Whyte, though i've heard many good things about how they ride.

Also, has anyone got a 19 Steel to test ride, around Sheffield? In a medium or large?

cheers,
Rich

Rich,

I hopeful that we'll have one in a week or two on demo! Just waiting for the 2011 models….

Indeed, they do ride very well and geometry is where it should be!!

Drop us a line in a week or so and we'll let you know!

Cheers

Scott

thebiketree

Looks nice and clean.

Apparently the Whyte Steel 19 is reviewed in some UK bike magazine this month. Can't remember which though…[/url]

It was reviewed in issue 60 but the bit about the chain adjustment on the rear dropouts is utter tripe, why would it need a half link, the system gives about 20mm of chain adjustment, the same as most other systems 🙄

A guy I know had one but sold it – prefered his old alu Trek (I think) frame. He thought it was 'dead'. I think he preferred the stiffness and directness of the alu, but each to their own.

Here is a pic of my 2010 after being pressed into service at SSEC after the failure of my venerable retro Kona Explosif… I'd only had the Whyte a week at this point and the dropouts saved my weekend 😆

I really like this bike. It has the lovely feel of steel in spades and the geometry really is excellent for most stuff. The slack head angle makes it a high speed carver and hence it's great fun at speed. I used it at SSEC 2010 and a friend borrowed it for the 10 more at Moray; so it can do the racing thing yet it's comfy enough for all day rides. It cuises along nicely and whips up to speed fine, drop the saddle and it's a complete hooligan for slaughting trail centre type smooth jumpy pumpy trails and most forest singletrack stuff. The only time I've had it out of it's depth is in the big mountains and some of the dumber stuff I ride… but thats not really the bikes fault (Scottish Mountains when I really should have had my big bike but the Whyte was in the car and the weather was good… so I had to MTFU… it was still ace but I could feel me and the bike were beyond the sensible zone). I think the Reba SL's are one of the limiters and a better/beefier 120mm fork would help… I'd love to try it with a 120mm 36 Float as the Reba damping is a bit easy to phase and it's not as stiff as I would like.
I don't think a longer fork would work as the seat angle is perfect as is and the bottom bracket need be no higher; in fact I think I would prefer a slightly lower bottom bracket for low speed rock garden work but thats getting fussy.

The adjustable dropouts are cool – I've experimented quite a bit and settled on having them long – it makes the bike more stable with no real side effects… I think a slightly more stable bike can be hussled along and thrown about when needed, whereas a fidgity bike can turn into a ditch magnet and scare you silly. The Maxxis Aspen tyres are a hoot… not sure how they will handle pure winter but over the summer they have been ace even when it's been wet – very surprising when you see how unknobly they are..

Now for the downers. The seat quick release is shocking… but at least thats easy to change. It's a shame the seatpost is a 27.2 (brochure said 30.9 in 2010), and my post has scored badly making me think the frame finish is not that good.
The BB30 bottom bracket is a little tight and has been on all the three I have seen… why can they not get this right? It's just two bearings pushed into a frame FFS!
The SRAM X5 and X9 kit on my 2010 is a bit low rent for £1600.
I had a paint related issue with mine but Whyte and Alpine Bikes sorted that out so I can pass favourable comment on the customer service 8)

I'm just shy of 6ft and ride a medium – I've got about an inch to the min insertion on the seatpost.. which won't drop right into the frame because of the bottle mounts on the seat tube… but I keep having to remind myself that this is not my bike for the dumb stuff… despite it "almost" being capable enough.

Can you tell I like it 🙄

thank you for the updates guys! SigmaF, we'll come give you a call this week and arrange a trip down (just in Hilssbro). I've heard that their sizing can be a bit funny, so best to try before i think..

Changed the dropouts to the mid setting on yesterdays ride. I was slipping about in the mud and the shorter back end really helped…

Thanks for your review, found it really helpful! So much so, I’m now the proud new owner of the very same.

I’ve had no experience with single speed, whats the best thing to do? I’ve seen things like the “Gusset Double Six Single Speed Cassette Kit” but what do I do at the crank and chainring end?

Also, what chain should I go for? Half links? 1/8″? I’m guessing chain tension is adjusted via the dropouts?

Many thanks!!

Congratulations, they are a nice ride.

To run it as singlspeed you need will need something like the Gusset thing you mention for the back and ideally a chainring with no shifting ramps and pins (also short chainring bolts). Just use a normal 8 or 9 speed chain – lighter and tend to be better quality than many of the bigger chains. Yes to using the dropouts the adjust the chain tension.

Cassette kit
http://www.charliethebikemonger.com/gusset-double-six-16t-spacer-kit-223-p.asp
Short bolts
http://www.charliethebikemonger.com/bikemongers-cromo-chainring-bolts—single-speed-double-and-extra-large-128-p.asp
Non ramped chainring
http://www.charliethebikemonger.com/fsa-104bcd-chainring-92-p.asp

Is it a 2011 model you’ve gone for? Hopefully the Fox forks are better than the 2010 Reba SL’s which I have found a little wanting.

Thanks fella! Much appreciated…

Yep, 2011, I had Fox’s on a Orange Patriot 6 i used to have so forked out (no pun intended) for the ’11. Love it!

Any idea what gearing I should start of with? Looks like they only have a 40 and 42 chainring in….

Thanks again, I’m well up for trying it out but it’s a mine field if you dont know s***

Just looked and found they do other makes in 32t etc… Not sure if that helps?

32 x 16 is the standard for offroad – if you live where it’s hilly or are unfit go 18 on the back – if you live where it’s flat go 14/15 at the back or 34 at the front.

Great…

32 x 18 it is then. Not as fit as I should be!
If I also got a 16 would that still work ok? Would I just need to lose a link?

Thanks again
Bruce

Might not need to lose a link – just depends on the position of the adjustable dropouts – you might be able to set it up so you change between the 16 and the 18 without removing a link. Not something I’ve tried but it might be possible.

Great thing about the cable guides on this frame is that you can take the gears off and put them back on easy without requiring new cables or much messing around – mine are usually still indexed spot on when I put them back on – make a good mark where your front mech goes 🙄

Rich,
We’ve got a good deal on a large 2010 steel 19,if you’re interested.It’s on Rockshox+Sram,rather than Fox+Shimano,otherwise as near as dammit the same as the 2011.We don’t have an off-road demonstrator,unfortunately.
A large should be good if you’re 6’+,otherwise probably a medium would be best.
http://www.stanleyfearns.co.uk/sale.html
Andrew.

Thanks Messiah! Thats been a great help… I’ll make sure I leave a mark for the front mech! Sounds like a “learnt the hard way” bit of info 😉 I would have been to excited and gotten carried away with myself to even think about that!