Why does my chainsaw always cut to the left ?

It’s a Stihl MS210 with a 14″ bar.
I sharpen it by hand using a file guide and stay as close to the angle markers as I can.
If I just use the last 2-3″ of the bar, it cuts OK.
If I try to use the full length of the bar, it’s as if it’s hit something solid. As soon as I angle it a bit to the left, it cuts again, but not for long as the bar then starts to jam in the curved cut.

I suspect I’m not filing both sets of teeth evenly because I’m right handed and one side is cutting better than the other.
Is there a technique to sharpening a chain to keep it even ?

Is it the Derek Zoolander of the chainsaw world?

I suspect I’m not filing both sets of teeth evenly because I’m right handed and one side is cutting better than the other.

That is the commonly held view, but I have heard that you’d have to be quite a way out (like 10 degrees), and consistency so, from one side to the other to make it wander.

Is there a technique to sharpening a chain to keep it even ?

Maybe have it reground, so it’s nominally ‘perfect’, and try filing again?

Bent bar?

Probably sharpening one side more than the other? slightly bent bar? or just not holding the saw straight?

Sharpen all the teeth the same angles recommended for the chain and find the smallest and sharpen all to the same size also guide teeth might want filing and you are letting the saw do the work and not pushing down hard when cutting?

The bar doesn’t look bent, although I could turn it over to see if cuts to the right instead.
I don’t like to hear the engine struggling, so I don’t push too hard.

It’s not a case of me not holding the saw straight.
If I hold it straight, it doesn’t cut.
I have to deliberately angle it to the left to get it to cut at all.

If I take a 2″ slice straight down the nearest face of the log using just the end of the bar, it cuts OK.
I can then take further 2″ slices until I’m through.
If I try to cut down from the top using the full length of the bar, it cuts to about 3″ depth, then feels like it’s hit something solid.
As soon as I angle the saw to the left, it starts cutting again.

I have to deliberately angle it to the left to get it to cut at all.

A new chain and bar or file the burs of the bar to see if that works. Something is not right if you have to angle the saw to make it cut.

Check the condition of the rubber dampers, if these are too worn it can have the effect of twisting the bar in respect to the handle, resulting in you having to compensate all the time.

Bent bar probably won’t throw the cut off to one side but it is quite common for one rail to wear down more than the other so the chain doesn’t sit flat. Usual cause is not cleaning out the oil hole through the bar, so one side get starved of oil and wears more. If its not too bad most dealers can grind the rails off level.

Does putting the bar on the other way up cure the problem? That would indicate that it is the source of the trouble, provided its not uneven both sides. Just re read the OP, cutting OK with the tip but not the near part does sound very much like the bar is the problem.

Other possible causes:

Underside of the chain is worn more one side than the other – same cause as the above, only answer is a new chain but DON’T put it on before getting the bar trued up.

Depth gauges [raker things on front of the cutters] higher one side than the other – you can get filing guides / gauges to check that.

You can get gauges to measure the teeth and check the angles are the same each side, if they aren’t either correct it by sharpening or take it into a shop to get it ground on a machine. Also check the vertical angle you hold the file [usually should be level or handle end 5 degs down. Holding it higher one side than the other will also throw things out. However minor discrepancies won’t make a massive difference.

Try cutting with the top of the bar in an upwards direction, i bet it cut straight.

Yeah, I should have mentioned that, it cuts OK upwards.
I just took the bar and chain off. I can’t find my set square at the moment, but by holding a straight edge across the narrow edge of the bar where the chain sits, it doesn’t look to be at right angles to the face.
I file the burrs off occasionally, but I never thought about it wearing unevenly like that. Thanks for the tip. The chain wear looks pretty even.
How important is it to get the bar ground by a dealer ?
Isn’t it something I could do myself with a file as long as I check it along its length with a set square ?

What swamp boy says. I was taught that you had to swap your bar over regularly and using a flat file, run down the bar guides as they can wear unevenly.
Ive not done mine for years and it pulls to the left as well!

I have done it, it depends how handy you are with a file, best to use a long [12″] one, as its easier to hold it level and single cut ones work better than those cut two ways to make a diamond pattern. The bar needs to be in a bench vice, workmates are a bit lightweight, but make sure its clamped on the middle of the bar, if you pinch the rails in you really will have a problem.

Swarf needs to be cleared out of the groove before you fire it up again.

Thanks for all the replies.
Looks like I’ll be taking the bar to work tomorrow to make use of the vice and air line then.

Filing the bar is pretty simple and you are shown to do it on a basic course.

Yeah it could be the bar which also needs to be maintained and filed. It doesn’t matter how evenly the teeth are sharpened, if the bar isn’t right she won’t cut right.

do you tend to stand like a teapot whilst using it? if so that is your error.

Er, if you mean chainsaw in one hand, other hand on hip, then no. 😕

I just tried it with the bar turned over and it cuts dead straight. 🙂
I’ll take it in to work and file the other side anyway so it’s ready to turn back again when needed.
Thanks for the advice. I was convinced it was something to do with the way I was filing the chain and wouldn’t have guessed it was the bar on my own.

If you turn the bar over regularly this will be prevented.