Wheel wobble

I have a hope pro 2 hub with a Macleod light going unto it. When it's done up tightly there is some side to side play in the wheel . Could this be the bearings? Or something else and if it is is it easy to fix
cheers

Hey. How old is the hub and how much use have the bearings had?

Probably bearings. Easy fix if you have the right size drift. Front much easier than rear. My rear has just collapsed and made a right mess 🙁

had these hubs for 2 years a lot of use and i havent touched them in all that time 😆

easy to fix – http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9sKcq9ChVEE

bearings are cheap as chips from an agricultural dealer or motor factors. OK OK they may not be te 2RS type with double seals but at £1.50 each who gives a sh1t.

6804 (2RS)

Ringo.
Top of the range performance bearing kit same tolerances as SKF imported by INA the same manufacturer HOPE use for them ceramic BB's all the old grease taken out and fully 100% pregreased with a grease suitable for hubs. £19.99 plus postage of £2.50 these kits will last years and will save you a lot of time and hassle in servicing or costs associated with it.

Upto you but I have the bearing in stock ready to go.

Cheers but I got some hope ines

Pot luck really what kind of bearings you get. Even if they are from hope they still won't be upto much in terms of their weather proofing. My bearings are gauranteed performance bearings and are 100% pregreased so last a good bit longer than standard hope ones.

100% pregreased? How is that different to the grease that they come from the manufacturers with? Are theirs only 50% pregreased? Does the wheel rotate smooth-as-a-smooth thing half way around and then scrape the other half?

There is of course one draw back to the hope direct replacement bearings. They are of course only partially water proof and will last half the time mine will.

The again if they last half the time you buy twice as many sets, so all good if your hope or one of their distributors.

One brand new hope pro 2 hub dismantled with the bearing seals removed to reveal very little grease or as I like to call it weather proofing.

Close up of bearings for a better view.

when those bearings burn out in a year or two at the most due to rust from moisture. Give me as shout and I'll sell you some that will last a good bit longer.

Ridefree!

So have you equivalent pictures of your "super bearings"?

I may be missing the point but why not buy some cheap bearings, flip the seals off and grease yourself – that's what I do and your only argument seems to be yours have more grease in?

how do we know you haven't wiped the grease out of the supposedly substandard hope ones?

actually, looking at the hope ones I can't see much space without grease in it, so yeah, lets see a comparison with yours please

Firstly cheapo bearings will burn out quicker so more maintenance time rather than saddle time. They're also about 5 to 10% less efficient which is why the race tuning companies use performance bearings. As for wiping the grease out! first I would have to put it in, when ringo gets his bearings we can see what they run. Maybe they will be full to the brim with Mobil XHP 222 grease which is of course what hope run in their hub bearings. It costs about £2 for 400grams and is cheap and nasty 220 viscosity so it's an intermediate level grease.

As for my super bearings they're off getting measured up for their capes and tights will post the photos once that’s done!

Nick get your eyes checked of the 5 bearings only 2 have grease the other 3 have it coming through from the other side slightly, that's called a 30% grease fill which is what most standard bearings have!

Those bearings like the rest of the industries are not really designed for outdoor use!

Like I said good luck running them, given a heads up you choose to argue rather than look into it?

I agree with FBK whatever the bearing just check the grease after peeling the seal off, put a bit in , run, put more in , run it and there you have it – greased – not rocket science 🙂

foxyrider what about the old/original grease?

if you push grease through the outside then run the bearing it will mix the 2 up – if you do that several time the original (if any) will be diluted – either that or just degrease them and pack them again?

Hallelujah I have seen the light. You are better of changing your bearings three times in the same period of time rather than changing them once.

I'll get on the phone to all the car manufacturers who are running SKF FAG INA bearings and explain the cheepo bearings / change them all the time theory.

hey kaesae – your bearings are off getting measured for their capes??? I thought you said they were in stock??

Kaesae there are longstanding arguments on here about the rights and wrongs of taking seals off to put more grease in (I'm "pro", others think the seals won't work as well afterwards)

kaesae – Member
foxyrider what about the old/original grease?

What about it?

If I get another 2 years out of these I'll be happy and besides they were cheap cheers anyway

Super duper bearings for fannytastic people measurements being taken, performance bearings in stock!

okay – so can you take some pictures of the performance ones? It might help your sales!!

Ringo, sounds like bearings to me, I just had the same with a hope xc hub. replacement was easy. Best tip I got given was to pour a kettle of boiling watr over the hub before drifting the bearings out. the hub expands and the bearings come out with a gentle tap then, virtually no risk of bearings collapsing and leaving the outer race behind. Put hte new bearings in the freezer over night and they drift in more easily too.

getting someone else to do the selling might be a better bet….

Not a chance allthegear my sales of the best bearing kit's you can get your hands on for the money are going fine and I didn't do two years of research for people like you to get their grubby hands on them!

One last point before I go as it's relevant I think. You're better of using as the riders on here are saying budget bearings that you pregrease yourselves.

Kona run S+S and enduro bearings OK but at 75 pounds for a bushing / bearing kit I know where they can stick their mech hanger and bits and bobs.

Giant run JNK japan and TPI taiwan as do specialized and in my opinion their not much better than generic bearings. Most of the industry run rubbish so buy off the shelf and pregrease.

As for damaging the seals on the 2rs that's the whole point of rubber seals so you can open them up and recondition them. So anyone saying you shouldn't do it is missing the whole point of the design DOH!!!

Gotta go! fight amongst yourselves until I get back!! should keep you happy!!!

Then you can have another go at me!!!!!!!!

I've got rather nicely manicured hands, thank you very much. 😉

Just interested as to what to look out for in a performance bearing – snake oil?

Bet you have you stroppy madam!!

As for damaging the seals on the 2rs that's the whole point of rubber seals so you can open them up and recondition them. So anyone saying you shouldn't do it is missing the whole point of the design DOH!!!

– the only part of that post that I understood.

What a load of old tosh. Anyone that thinks its worth stripping a tiny bearing like a 61802 to recondition it once its full of crap and rust is off their head. These bearings are throwaway items. I work in the engineering and we use some pretty big bearings, sometimes costing thousands and they too are throwaway items once they're done. Once a bearing is rusty its buggered. When a bearing starts to fail material is gradually ripped from the races and elements and its had its day.
Flick RS seals out at your peril the bearing will probably never seal properly again.
Use open bearings or ZZ's in your hubs and you are asking for an early failure.
Use crappy 2RS bearings and you'll probably do OK, however I find new Hope hubs last about 12 months, my last one needed a dry bearing replacing after a month.
I only use SKF bearings now. They're expensive but that are without any doubt the best. I'd also use NTN, FAG or NSK at a push.

im not being funny but it takes literally 15 minutes to change the bearings in a hope pro 2 front hub. I can get 2rs bearings at £1.95 each and they last 12 months – 24 months in general. Why would anyone pay either £20 for a set that may last a year longer if you are lucky. It beggars belief. Plus what else are you going to do on those long wet winter nights besides get your bike sorted for the clocks changing?

Snake oil.

I get them cheap 😉