If you mean you’re having to regulate it by 2-3 mins every week, rather than just alter the time I’d be thinking about claiming on the warrantee.
Dunno what the seiko warranty actually says about regulation but seikos were, are and always will be accurate but poorly regulated out of the factory. I don’t know if their movements are particularly susceptible to position or what but they are almost famous for running 25+ seconds fast
If you are patient you can get them really well regulated (+1-3s aa day) and they seem to run very consistently when you do. They are fiddly to adjust though. A seemingly tiny movement of the adjuster sends them crazy.
When I say regulate I mean he’s taking the back off to adjust, getting it accurate then it’s going out of whack by 2—3 mins so having to do it again the following week. That suggests a fault to me. If it just needs the time correcting every week, then yeah, quite normal.
Christoper Ward Trident C60 bronze. Sellita automatic movement (ETA 2824 clone), CuSn6 Bronze 43 mm case, 600m water resistance. I’m loving the flat blue dial although the faux aged lumed markers are a bit too yellow (but kind of ok given the bronze), I quite like the logo at 9 but I know many don’t, So far I’m liking the nylon/rubber hybrid strap which is a surprise, I normally fund rubber straps sweaty by the end of the day. I’m also loving the bright pink Copper tin bronze, although I am researching forced patina’s and suspect I’ll have a play. bezel action is phenomenal, really strong click, crown is super smooth too, it seems a lot of watch for £850, good value like many microbrands. i picked this up pre owned though 🙂
oh and 600m WR but no HeEV…yeah….well i dont dive anyway
Yeah I read that the other day. I’ve been googling and found lots of blogs/articles on patinaring watches on sites like worn and wound, and I saw the milk then fix with red wine gave a faint but interesting iridescent patina.
The thing is, it’s chemistry, and results depend on the bronze (cusn 6 or 8 or 12, or cu Al) and the crystal size and surface finish and the patina agent concentrations, and temp and presence or not of catalysts and time and and and ! I would like something brightly coloured, a mix of green, blue, purple, red…. But I suspect I’ll end up with black or brown. So long as it adds character though I’ll like it. Probably.
Clearly some experts on this thread. I have many watches in a draw. 20+ year old Tag, something massive with a compass(!), Animal with a Ti Bezel (I think), Torgoen that I really liked but never wear. Mostly I wear my Fenix 6.
Anyway before I even think of wasting my money, any opinions on the brand. I did a few googles which seemed to suggest they were okay and not likely to fall apart in the first few months.
I’ve counted the clicks on my SKX007, it’s definitely 90 and not 120.
Well I’m not a diver, so it doesn’t really make much odds to me. It’s weird though, because I’ve popped it off today to change the insert, and the click spring isn’t a flat washer with a couple of pawls like the ones I’ve seen in photos, it’s a single wire spring which on vertical teeth.
As others have said, the SKX should have 120 clicks and they ‘should’ be even, but with manufacturing tolerances and wear they tend to be uneven.
If you’ve got 90 clicks and a bezel spring different to the one below then I’d question the authenticity.
If you’ve got 90 clicks and a bezel spring different to the one below then I’d question the authenticity.
It’s not that type at all! It’s a wire with a small 90 degree bend that sits in a single hole drilled in the body. It curves around inside the bezel and clicks against a vertical track on the inside the bezel. There’s a Vostok type retaining/tension spring in there too. I wish I’d taken a photo of it!
I’ve looked at a few YouTube clips on how to spot a fake, and absolutely everthing else looks legit though so I’m really not sure.
It’s not that type at all! It’s a wire with a small 90 degree bend that sits in a single hole drilled in the body. It curves around inside the bezel and clicks against a vertical track on the inside the bezel. There’s a Vostok type retaining/tension spring in there too. I wish I’d taken a photo of it!
That’s the same setup used on 80’s/90’s vintage Tag Heuer but with 60 clicks and it’s never been used on any Seiko to my knowledge.
Get a pic up of the front and case back if you can. It might not be 100% fake but I know for certain the bezel isn’t a genuine SKX.
They have a very good rep as far as I’ve seen. Well built, good service and the designs aren’t generally straight copies. It’s pretty hard to create an original diver style these days but some of their dial texture, colour & layering combos are interesting.
If I was buying a diver now it would probably be between an NTH, Halios (if I could find the pale green Seaforth anywhere), Crepas or Doxa.
Though there are a tonne of micro’s putting out decent looking, well built divers under £800 at the moment.
Unlike Cavalier Malvern I love “extravagant” watches, original and out of the ordinary. On the other hand I must say in all honesty that I love the watch that you have posted on the photo, it is a sporty watch but I find it not simplistic at all. Personally my favourites are the technological watches.
Which watch? Is there a photo there that isn’t loading for me?
Urwerk and MB&F make really interesting watches. If I had the money I’d definitely have a few even just to stick on a stand as a piece of functional art.
I like slight twists on more traditional styles & some of the classics for wearing normally but there is definitely a place for far more innovative timepieces.
Qwerty – you already own the perfect watch. Anything else is just affectation, and I speak as a watch geek (although my geekery is inexpensive, quirky watches, rarely more than £40).
Update – the ETA on my M-Force was 24/2 but the flight from Singapore got diverted to Germany because of bad weather and as a result of which I’ve just received it now.
After wearing my trident again yesterday I found the usual sweaty irritation from the rubber strap by the end of the day, so started looking at sail cloth or canvas. It seems all sail cloth have a leather lining which is surely pointless on a sports/dive watch? Canvas options from the likes of Barton straps look reasonable. It’s just a shame that, as far as I can see, the buckle is intended to be removed from the CW strap so I’ll not have a bronze buckle on the canvas. Could go rose gold coloured… But I guess it won’t patina like the head. Hmmm.
Feiko? What do you reckon then? Sorry about the big images, but these were taken with SWMBO’s iPhone, so should be able to zoom into the details. The bezel insert and movement are the originals which came with the watch. I’ve looked at photo’s of the case back on Google Images, I don’t think the wave is stamped to a good enough quality. edit – it doesn’t really show on the last photo, but the lume pip on the insert is definitely inset and not printed on or raised.
The constant need to regulate can be a sign that it needs de-magnetising.
As to the originality of the watch, the logo on the back does change from time to time. As mentioned the lume on the face looks off. The placement of the serial number, and it looks lasered not stamped/engraved. That doesn’t match any seiko I’ve seen.
Having said that, the case, bezel and movement look about right. The 7s26b is a later movement iirc.
I have a bit of trouble believing it’s worth taking a seiko, they aren’t insanely expensive, and parts can be had relatively cheaply.
More likely I’d have thought, is it’s been modded. Plenty of that around.
I think the most noticeable difference, (apart from the quality of the photography) is the stamping of the sea below the big wave, and that the Seiko doesn’t line up above the big wave.
How annoying. 😥
Edit – bezel is defiantly not right, see my comments above. Also, there are fakes of everything. I also like a Vostok, and there are Chinese copies of those, even though the originals are about 40 quid from Russia!
Just to add, the movement is a genuine Seiko 7S26 but the rest is fake as pointed out above.
I have a bit of trouble believing it’s worth taking a seiko, they aren’t insanely expensive, and parts can be had relatively cheaply.
There’s a ton of fake Seiko’s on Wish. You’re right that they’re not expensive to us, but there are countries in Asia where Seiko are an aspirational brand and the average wage is a fraction of what we earn in the UK. A SKX might be a months wage if you’ve got a good job in Vietnam, so if you can fake them and knock them out for a weeks wage there will be demand.
See also the Casio F91W. Less than £10 for a new one but it’s also one of the most faked watches in the world.
Edit to add: Just looked on Wish and a fake SKX is less than £20 direct from the factory in China.
Posted 3 years ago
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