Turning FS into "Semi" hardtail (Mechanical fudging content)

To set the scene – I can’t afford new hard tail as already building new alpine bike. But I fancy trying a hardtail as I’ve never had one – maybe I’ll learn something about my riding.

Just wondered, what if I up the pressure in my shock to effectively reduce sensitivity to all but major impacts. Do I effectively get an “almost” hardtail. (Would also max out the compression damping if it had that adjustment but it doesn’t (Fox RP3).

Yes, I know that it won’t be the same as a proper hardtail but I’m not asking for perfection – it’s just an experiment in mechanical fudgery.

Anyone tried this ? Any advice ?

You probably want to have a little movement left – I’ve heard of people breaking frames by fitting a rigid link instead of a shock, the frame isn’t designed to be completely rigid there.

Never tried it but pretty sure it wouldn’t work… pick up a second hand frame for 40 or 50 quid then sell on if you don’t like it…
I have however seen a full susser giant trance with a metal rod instead of a shock…

Ben, good point about the “designed for use” issue. I’m guessing that as hard as you tried you’d always have some movement.

But I fancy trying a hardtail as I’ve never had one

😯

Not sure you’d be able to pump the shock up hard enough to replicate a hardtail without damaging the shock. Does it not have a lockout function or propedal? Try turning that up?

you’ll also find you full sus is designed to ride “in” it’s travel so pumping the shock up will jack it up, raise the bb and centre of gravity and make it ride like a dog

Damn you sssimon and your greater knowledge !! 😀

A point I hadn’t even considered. 😳

This project would appear doomed to failure 🙄

Tom, pro pedal but no lockout. Yes really, I’ve never had a hardtail MTB ! 😥

Just try it! I rode my fsr with shock running 200psi which virtually locked it out. Rode fine! Had no option as damper failed and any less pressure resulted in pogo stick type behaviour! Commuted with slicks and rear locked out for around a year. Was fine 🙂

The air cans can hold quite a bit of pressure! Think max pressure is something like 300 psi for fox rp23.

Hire one for a day?

Slight hijack here…. is it possible to make a FOX rp2 lockout by flicking the blue lever instead of turning pro-pedal on?

Could you borrow a shock with a lockout from someone to try? I’ve got a RP23, where do you live?

Replace the shock with a piece of metal cut to the correct length to allow for sag.

Someone (topeak?) used to do a bike pump that would double as an emergency/fake shock.

http://www.topeak.com/products/Pumps/PropShock

Remote rob, yeah I could but, I was just really looking to see if I could get my FS to pull double duty for when I felt like it.

Andrewh – I’m in the Chilterns near Thame. Didn’t know RP23 had lockout.

Scottroutes – never seen that before – clever.

ignoring all the above, its gonna be a heavy hardtail.

and expensive when all the bearings seize having not moved all winter.

I think you’ll end up with a locked out full suspension bike, not a hardtail. There’s a big difference in how the back end rides, ime.

Topeak shockprop..[/url] though I’d just get a cheap secondhand frame and build that, cos it won’t really be the same and if you’ve never rode a HT before, a period of adjustment is required to get into it,.
And one of the nice things about a hardtail is a 2-4lb weight reduction for a like for like build, which is nice on the climbs with a rigid back end as well..

Gents, all points well made.

Yet another “brilliant” idea bites the dust.

http://www.pinkbike.com/buysell/1430433/

I’d sell this frame for £50 posted now if you are interested?

Trying a £50 hardtail frame with the same BB, headset type/ seatpost size etc to your current bike is the simplest way to go. Keeping these things consistent should mean no extra expenses and very quick rebuild time.