Tripster ATR finally built up – lush!

evilsovereign: Don’t give up on hydraulics. Have a look at the Juin R1 or TRP Hy/RD. Similar approach – cable activated hyraulics but with great modulation.

Teasal: Its a bit early in the year for lamping. 😆

^^^^ looks good with the red forks

‘Ere it is at last… in roadie mode(y). Certainly a sprightly thing on my test rides up the road. Will give it a full commute tomorrow (if it ain’t raining!).

Ain’t she perty

Back brake squeals for some reason, apart from that everything seems great.

Nice – what size frame Dez?

I’ve just ordered a 28 hole Exposure dynamo hub (rebranded SP PD-8 basically) from CRC, to build into the stock kinesis rims.
This’ll power my B+M Lumix USB light thingy, as well as be a USB charger for longer trips away and big bike rides 🙂

Now I just need the time for a long trip away or big bike ride!

DrP

Looking very sweet, DezB. Time to get some miles in 🙂

I’m interested to know how you get on with the dynamo hub DrP – quite tempted here too. I know you know it, but it’s worth making the time for a trip; even just a 3 dayer. The memories stay long after…

Hit 7,500 miles on my Tripster this week; it never fails to impress and entertain. Happy days.

Initially I didn’t realise Exposure/SP made a 28 hole hub.
This way I can simply lace the new hub onto the Kinesis CX rims (So front and rear match…tart alert)!
I initially thought I’d only be able to find a 32 hole SP hub (Schmidt make a 28 hole hub – it’s over £200!) so to see one on CRC, order it this afternoon, and receive the shipping email just now, is pretty impressive!
And with BC membership, it was only £73.
I got the headlight from Rose MONTHS ago (!) for about £70ish too (gone up a bit now) so should have a pretty economic set up.

DrP

DezB: Nice build. Interested to hear how you get on with the Mavic wheels.

Nice – what size frame Dez?

54
Thank chaps. Its been quite an effort! Well the Shimano brakes/stis have. Right pigs, they are.
I love Mavics, they’re just so easy to live with. Will be getting the tubeless Allroads when they’re out in a few weeks. Email alerts in place with CRC and Evans!

Ah – I can see it on CRC now. The 28h does make for a nice option, especially as I’m so impressed with the CX wheels too… heads off to read up on dynamos.

Interesting review of the Mavic Allraod wheels:

https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=mavic+tubeless+all+roads&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&gws_rd=cr&ei=gajoVf_iIYmE7Qb58Z-IBQ

I might have a look at a set.

Anyone had problems with nipples failing on the stock Kinesis wheels? I’ve had two fail now, one on a long ride on holiday to Grasmere, it went 10 miles before the end so I managed to limp to my destination.

This doesn’t bode well for a commuter bike though, the bike deserves better, I’m thinking of rebuilding the same wheels with brass nipples.

Ooh, me brown (brahn I says) Ksyriums have arrived. Excited.
Pics later 😀

Anyone had problems with nipples failing on the stock Kinesis wheels?

Nope, I’ve been using mine for 4-6 months now, daily commute, use it on the rough stuff have also done a mini tour with a bit of weight over rough ground.

No problems, still true and running well.

Q re PDW mudguards

Yes, they look lovely but are they a pita to fit? Once on do they need to stay on for the Season or is it feasible to remove as and when required?

Thanks. 🙂

CG.. ive ordered some too.
They’ve got to be easier to fit that chromospastics thats for sure as they bolt in through the QR skewer and one of the eyelets. I think you also need the extra long stay for the rear guard..

PDW mudguards are a 5 minute job to fit/remove, as such i fit/remove them as weather dictates.

I’m thinking of getting some PDW mudguards, just wondered if anyone had seen any good deals, I think they were half price a couple of months ago but seem to have gone back up recently. Anyone using them with lyra’s any issues with fitting?

Thanks very much somafunk and cloudnine. 8)

I got my PDW mudguards from Charlie the Bikemonger, and they were very easy to fit. I needed to get the extra-long stays which were an extra £8 as the rear mudguard was too close to the tyre at the back. Might have been a peculiarity of my frame design, but there is a simple solution if yours end up being too close too.

Cheers, Rich

somafunk is the font of all Tripster knowledge. I checked back through his posts and for these he recommended a 10mm spacer front lower disc side mount, as well as the longer rear stay.

I rode mine home 50/50 offroad on Tues. Was lovely, even across those bumpy ol cow fields.
Tubeless is the way.

“Anyone had problems with nipples failing on the stock Kinesis wheels?”

Not quite but….The nipples on my Crosslights seemed to corrode and seize. I discovered this when re trueing and the nipples crumbled away. Bit of a bind I thought so I took them to the LBS for a rebuild with new nips. Then things got more interesting when the mechanic said the job was a no go after he discovered the rims had circumferential cracks in them between eyelets!

99% used for road commuting duty so nothing unusual in use.

Overall, nice and light for the cash but utterly shoddy (IMO).

Re the kinesis wheels
One of my front spokes sheared at the nipple and
I took my back wheel in to the lbs to be trued after less than a year old with only moderate use and he said 3 or 4 of the nipples were siezed.
Bit disappointing given the cost of the wheels.

Here’s pictures of mine. Had a few issues at first. My partner put the bottom bracket in by hand for a few minutes while he checked how many spacers were required, but then couldn’t get it out without a tool. When it came out, the threads of the bb were stripped and aluminium left in the bb shell. Had to take it to a specialist to get the threads chased. Also, they sent the wrong end cap with my wheels, so had to wait for that too. It’s finally built up and have done a few rides on it.

Anyone had problems with nipples failing on the stock Kinesis wheels? I’ve had two fail now, one on a long ride on holiday to Grasmere, it went 10 miles before the end so I managed to limp to my destination

I have been replacing about half of them,with stainless ones, on my front wheel. They keep on failing on after the other, and like you it is mostly computing.
As well, the dish on the rear wheel is slightly off.

I am pretty disappointed too.

My partner put the bottom bracket in by hand for a few minutes while he checked how many spacers were required, but then couldn’t get it out without a tool. When it came out, the threads of the bb were stripped and aluminium left in the bb shell.

I’m intrigued. I can’t picture what would have been wrong with the frame to cause that issue.

I’m intrigued. I can’t picture what would have been wrong with the frame to cause that issue.

We’ve no idea. The only thing the shop we took it to could suggest was that he might have crossed the threads when he put the bb in, but he’s replaced enough bottom brackets and done enough bike maintenance to know if he’d done that. It was a cheap sram bb, so don’t know if there was a quality issue with that. It was only one side, the other one was fine.

Did the SDW a few weeks back. Here’s a couple from the phone cam. Tripster was brilliant. One descent on day 2 had me wishing for some travel up front, but for 99% of the route it was perfect. Could’ve done with more than 36/28 though.

Poor thing took a spill on Graffam Common at the end of day one. It started to rain and I went down hard on the slick chalk. The rear mech and hanger got mangled, but I limped to my over-night in Bury, and managed to manhandle things straight enough to carry on the next day.

I have some more pics on the camera still to go through later. Should get a chance soon, as this is the current status. 🙁

Came off on my commute and broke my scaphoid.

Has anyone managed to fit full-length mudguards and an 11-speed Shimano groupset (e.g., 5800) to a Tripster ATR?

I’ve heard that the arm of the front mech gets in the way of the mudguard and severely limits its clearance. I was looking at the Croix de Fer Stainless as an alternative, but apparently it suffers from this problem:

(Image borrwed from this thread)

I think the tyre/seat tube clearance is a bit better on the Tripster than on the CdF, and the wider seat tube will move the mech outward, which should help. Can anyone confirm that it’s possible to fit guards with this front mech (ideally with 35c tyres)?

I’m intrigued. I can’t picture what would have been wrong with the frame to cause that issue.

the threads on mine were a bit ‘dirty’ and I had to clear them out by screwing in the bb a bit, then removing, then screwing in a bit more, until eventually it was all nice and smooth.

Threads were fine though, it seemed.

I would imagine that I would have had problems if I had put the BB fully in to start with.

Matts.. Im suprised they havent set your thumb in the cast to stop any movement.

Its a **** of a bone to break… hope it heals fast (its got a very bad blood supply) and you get back riding before christmas

zakalwe – Member
Has anyone managed to fit full-length mudguards and an 11-speed Shimano groupset (e.g., 5800) to a Tripster ATR

Wont a front 10 speed mech work OK with 11 spd?

Has anyone managed to fit full-length mudguards and an 11-speed Shimano groupset (e.g., 5800) to a Tripster ATR?

Yep, but… it was with road wheel and 25C tyre – a perfect fit for a Crud Racerguard. 🙂

zakalwe,

Dunno if this will help or just confuse the matter further but this pic shows the clearance i have with 40mm On-One Gravel Road tyres and PDW full metal fenders, I am running 10spd though. I can get my finger in the gap between the mudguard and the mech so there’s at least 10mm of space.

PS : On-One are doing the 40mm gravel road tyres for £14.99 at the moment – all tripster owners should buy them! – easy to set up tubeless and very fast rolling on tarmac with loads of grip off road – an absolute bargain at that price.

Wont a front 10 speed mech work OK with 11 spd?

Different cable pull between them, so no 🙁 I was hoping for hydraulic brakes, which rules out 10 speed altogether. Stupid Shimano.

Dunno if this will help or just confuse the matter further but this pic shows the clearance i have with 40mm On-One Gravel Road tyres and PDW full metal fenders, I am running 10spd though. I can get my finger in the gap between the mudguard and the mech so there’s at least 10mm of space.

Thanks, that does look promising! As long as I can fit 35mm tyres under mudguards, I’ll be happy. Still, it’s difficult to tell whether the 5800 mech will get in the way…

Apparently Shand have the same problem with their bikes, to the point that they’ve had to revert to 5700/6700 mechs on the Stoater to keep it fully ‘guard-compatible. It seems to be a fundamental design flaw in Shimano’s 11-speed front mechs.

Still, it’s difficult to tell whether the 5800 mech will get in the way..

Depends on the guard – the Cruds have a large scoop which protects the front mech from er, crud and my 5800 mech was just shy of it. If it had fouled it, I would’ve just modded the guard (chopped a bit out of it). It’s only a mudguard after all 🙂
(That XTR mech looks so much neater than the roadie ones)

PDW mudguards are a 5 minute job to fit/remove, as such i fit/remove them as weather dictates.

I’m calling bullshit on that one. They are much easier than SKS Chromos but 5 minutes? Even for this evangelical thread that is over-egging the pudding!

Mine come off in less than 5 mins but with my set up I only undo 7 Allen bolts in total

I’m calling bullshit on that one.

Really?, you do know how to hold/operate hand tools such as a torx/hex socket and driver don’t you?…….lefty loosey….righty tighty etc…etc.

4 bolts to hold on the rear mudguard – two T25 torx bolts on the lower seat stays, one T25 bolt on the chain stay bridge and one T25 bolt on the seat stay bridge.

Bike upside down – rear wheel out – 4 torx bolts removed with spinner driver and mudguard off in less than 3 mins with wheel refitted.

Bike still upside down – remove son dynamo hub spade terminals with quick pull (easy as i have reinforced the cable with layers of heat shrink over the spade ends) and wheel out, at fork crown remove one 8mm nyloc nut that secures mudguard onto the excess thread of the bolt that holds Son Edelux light onto fork crown, remove two torx bolts that secure lower mudguard stays to fork leg, wheel refit and attach Dynamo cable – 2 mins.

Pow!……… 😉

Hi all. Please tell me tube diameters and axle to crown tripster fork. Very interest this frame. Thanks 😀
See picture with sizes needs here ->

tripsteratr-bike-side by Artem[/url], on Flickr

Removal in 5 mins as described above would be possible. I’m willing to bet that it takes more than 5 to get them back on again. That’s why I just set them up and left them. All by myself! And not on a Tripster!

Anyway I’ve long thought that this thread is a cult, and that Tom Cruise clip above is yet more proof!