Transition Covert owners…

Hi guys – just a quick question. Only had my covert a couple of months, and was cleaning it last night after a chicksands/aston session over the weekend and noticed the start of a decent bit of cable rub where the internal rear cable enters the chainstay just by the cranks.

I’m guessing this is perfectly normal and nothing to be concerned about with getting progressively worse with continued usage? I assume as the back moves up and down the cable is constantly moving against this entry point causing rub.

It’s already through the paint, and I can start to see a bit of bare aluminium.

The paint on these is nano-thin and I got cable rub on that lower pivot point very soon. It’s the only thing I can criticise the bike for. Not done anything about it yet, was going to cut up a rubber patch to stick over the contact point.

Ultimately I wanted he bike in the same yellow they do the carbon covert in or the green they do the Transam hardtail in, but those colours were not available for the 29, so in a couple of years I’ll get the frame re sprayed anyway.

Not been an issue in four years, but there is a tiny hole you can zip tie the cable to the swingarm not sure if you are already using it.

But I would say the paint is much the same as any other bike manufacturer, not been a problem for me.

Helitape, should be used on every frame

I’ve got the cable zip tied behind the chain ring to keep it from fouling – and that works fine. It’s just where the cable then enters the internal routing hole it seems to be rubbing down to the alloy.

Not fussed about the paint – I just don’t want it to potentially damage the aluminium too much.

Banks – I had a small bit of helitape on that point, but the constant movement has dislodged it. It’s also a very small opening so quite hard to get a piece in there.

it’s bound to rub through as it will move back and forth a little bit, you cant stop it, but mine hasn’t caused any problems.
if you look at a lot of Orange 5’s where the cables go through the swingarm and then through the downtube, you see a lot of alloy exposed, but it’s not harming the bike that much, you could possibly slide one of those rubber cable covers over it, and that could help as ideally the cable woud then only rub through that.

I really don’t think it will do damage, though if its rubbing its still worth addressing either by trying to do something with the cable itself or by using a helitape patch. I actually prefer these rubbery adhesive pads you can get and cut those up to suit.

Try using a couple of pieces or something on the cable perhaps.

Keep an eye on it to make sure it doesn’t get worse and if needed put a frame protection patch or some heli tape.

I use the zip tie to hold the cable in place. I also use a 24 tooth granny. The zip tie lasted about 4 rides, the cable outer has been cut to shreds. I also get more chain suck with this bike than any other I’ve owned. However, the cable itself is fine, shifts fine. I have also lost a bit of paint from the chain stay. I have put all the damage down to the chain suck moments. I am now very well practiced in hearing the tell tale pre-chain suck moment and manage to avoid. I will be using my supplied touch up paint and probably go 1 x 10 next full service.

Jef have you tried a clutch mech, they will help avoid a lot of chainsuck, they are brilliant

Hi Sancho,

A clutch mech is on the upgrade list for when I go 1 x 10 (currently 2 x 9). All my previous full sussers have been single pivot SC’s with a high swing arm so never had chain suck before now. I am learning. Thanks.

Anyone used the touch up paint that came with the bike? I’ve tried to us it but it’s so thin and watery it just runs off and drips. It needs thickening up.

Yes, the Covert is short, but that’s how it was described to me by Adam at Plush Hill. I’ve got used to it and it makes the bike more controllable when messing around as you’re not so stretched out and you can really move the bike beneath you and makes it easier to get out of the saddle. This is at the slight expense of longer distance cross country efficiency, but if that’s what you want then the Covert isn’t for you. A mate of mine is getting a Rhune, will be good to compare.

I have found the paint rubs through quite easily (including on one rough van uplift in Alps), but its a mountain bike and it’s designed to be ridden and crashed …

Yes the touch up paint is very thin for me too. You want build up the paint using many thin layers rather than one heavy layer.

Touch up paint (on the 2013 pewter model) is quite nice and thick – well mine is anyway.

Look stop talking about touch up paint or I’ll have to call the LBS to ask where the f*ck mine is (2012 frame)

Raw frame 2011 – where’s mine 😀

Ive had mine for 3 years of hard riding – I found the paint to be fine. Ive got some protection in place where you would expect and elsewhere its fine. I dont get cable rub where the OP metioned – I to use the little hole and cable tie to sort that. Make sure the cable can move a bit where its attached to the frame, then any movement is not all concentrated in one area.

Only once got a hint of chainsuck – with a very very worn front ring (Im running 1×10) Chainsuck is caused by worn chainrings, not the bike. Ive also never suffered any chain slap – I run a short cage mech and its not a clutch one, just a cheap Sram X7. Chain is as short as it can be with my 1×10 set up, my chainstay protector is pretty redundant to be honest.

Jef if your getting chain suck have a close look at your mech/chain/cassette and rings, something must not be set up right or worn out.

Here’s a pic. It’s not much, but just don’t want it to get any worse if possible. Not sure more helitape would stay on there to be honest. Also, not sure how that knick got there at the bottom of the opening, doesn’t look like chain suck – is it likely it could have caught the chain ring at full compression? I’m only running a 34t.