[Closed] Torque wrench no longer 'clicking' when at torque

You have been turning it to the lowest settings after each use and in storage ?

You have never used it to loosen a bolt ?

You have not dropped it ?

If you answer no to either of tem - bin it and get a new one and treat it better 🙂

If you have not mistreated it. Then its probaly just bad luck . The cost of repair outstrips the cost of replacement imafraid - usually a 25 quid flat fee to have them calibrated round here before needing parts.

Followed instructions exactly and yes to all the above, well except the mechanic in the shop took time to explain how to use it carefully and said it should be loosened so it doesn't feel engaged when storing, i.e. just below the lowest. Instructions are dodgy translation and bit confusing, but just says not to turn it below lowest but I think that means when using it. It's not been a problem otherwise for some 4 years I used them. I have been turning to lowest after each use prior to next thing I torque however.

Anyway, indeed seems like bin it and new one given the costs. Shame as has been a decent tool. Wonder if anywhere recycles these things.

Turn it right back down then up again after each bolt?

Yes. I undo the lock, turn it right down, then back up and lock it for the next. That's what the guy in the shop said to do.

Instructions though just says it resets after releasing after it clicks.

You have to do that stuff? Oh dear....

I admit though when I do a load of the same torque like rotor bolts I don't adjust it, I just do them alternating until each clicks and then double check they all click then wrench. Did do that the other day, then set to lowest before doing calliper bolts which were fine, then set to lowest to store and then another set of calliper bolts yesterday and it stopped working.

You don't have to reset it after every bolt, just when storing should you remove the tension. Also don't double click you will be applying additional torque. Does the wrench still break but not click?

Break?

It always just did the 'click-click' sound when hitting torque and I'd stop then.

And this is why the "oh you must use a torque wrench" brigade on here annoy me. Torque wrenches should be analysed before each use. Without that they are as useful as any other ratchet handle, but makes a click, at any random torque value. For an amateur in the garage on a bike there is no need.

I do stem bolts, for example, tighten gradually in sequence til they all click, then check each one. I don't wind it out then in again for each go.

The ratchet head should move slightly or 'break'.

Torque wrneches don't need to be analysed before each use, periodic calibration is enough. And for bike applications applying similar levels of torque to bolts on a faceplate for instance is desirable especially for the ham fisted.

Well how do you know you are getting the right torque?
The ham fisted will drop and treat their torque wrench incorrectly, meaning it won't give the accurate torque loading.

Because you get it calibrated yearly. Otherwise you don't really know what your getting, even then calibration is only good at the moment it's done, having a torque tester is handy (but not really something for the home mechanic)

And you absolutely do not have to reset it for each bolt.

Where would you suggest you get them calibrated anyway?

Given most are in the £30 to £50 range (add premium for Park Tools name of course), I'd assume calibration is not worth it and may as well buy a new one.

I'd assume they are simply not worth it. Great when it can be checked. I recommend sitting with a ratchet handle and torque analyser and getting a feel of it.

Also remember that having loctite or any grime on the thread throws you torque setting out of the window.

Not actually sure where you could get kit calibrated, I've only done it commercially (we get a LOT of stuff calibrated). You've also got to make the assumption that it comes calibrated from the factory...

Norbar make and calibrate torque wrenches.
They can calibrate other makes of torque wrenches, and other manufacturers do get wrenches tested by them.

http://www.norbar.com/sales-service/calibration-services.aspx

http://www.norbar.com/news/our-latest-news/15-march-2013.aspx

deadkenny, have a look through yellow pages or whatever and see if any local engineering firms have a tester, they aren't that uncommon. If its out by a significant margin I wouldn't bother getting it calibrated but just buy a new one.

I should add if u=you are concerned, I still maintain achieving an equal torque is more inposrtant than the difference between 3 and 4nm or 25 and 27.

Can the square drive be pushed through the torque wrench ?

I've seen that before when you are basically turning it the wrong way. There should be an arrow to tell you which way to turn it.

Hard to explain...

YoKaiser - Member
I should add if u=you are concerned, I still maintain achieving an equal torque is more inposrtant than the difference between 3 and 4nm or 25 and 27.

That's kind of what I work on. I'm not so fussed on the actual figure, but if I do a brake caliper or rotor bolt and each time I do one it measures the same then that will do, so long as I'm happy that what it says is tight enough for me, even if it's not accurate.

Mainly I use it to reassure myself it's consistent.

Anyway, the problem is the thing isn't clicking at all. I was going up to what I felt was 10 to 15Nm and it hadn't clicked, when I'd set to 5Nm. 5Nm is gentle hand tight. I tested it on a high torque bolt and it wasn't clicking with a low or medium setting.

Fixed it.

Not sure how, but loosened off and then pulled out the retaining pin at the top which let the top bit slide out. Nothing seemed to be out of place, still nicely greased inside. So just put it back together and tested it. Seems fine now.