rom what I’ve seen the choice is a bit limited…
Theres almost nothing there – which is a charm when you start to get your head round it. I went twice on work, with time planned both trips for a bit of R&R and found it really difficult to know what to do with myself the first time. It has some odd qualities, as you travel around you get to a dot on the map that should be a village but although there are houses they never seem to coagulate into a place – just a bunch of buildings floating around ignoring each other and the road. Houses don’t look like homes, they’re just scattered around the landscape with no real sense of belonging to them – no boundaries or gardens or possesion- just houses plonked on the turf – the abandoned crofts have more sense ownership to them than the inhabited homes. You can find yourself travelling around and not stopping because you never seem to have arrived anywhere and you’re never quite out of sight of where you’ve just been.
I couldn’t get to grips with the place at all and wasn’t really looking forward to going back.
Second time round I loved it. Just stop anywhere and wander, there seems to be very little elevation but trudge up the slightest hill and this amazing liquid landscape reveals itself
Its like a big doily of black and silver bodies of water, non of which you can see as you travel by road. So if you see a lay-by and a path just follow it.
Its such a barren environment you start to tune in to different stuff on a much smaller scale too, tiny little things grab your attention instead of the whole view.