The Rock Climbing Thread

Jimmy – it really was a perfect day for it – felt like there was no rush at all. Was that Crowberry Ridge indirect you were on? Recommended?

does it have to be sport climbing? The bouldering in Torridon is ace

Hmmm. I’m very much a circuit boulderer rather than projects, so need loads of easy stuff to get in the zone, then gradually build it up from there. So I love Brimham, and ‘bleau, but never really got much from other places, Torridon included.  I think a few routes would work better.

Have you climbed at Moy? It’s right on your way and there are some great routes but it’s not everyone’s cup of tea.

Mmm. TBH I’m not expecting amazing lines etc. for most UK crags there’s usually a damn good reason why it was never developed pre-sport era. So I’m not expecting much. I only rope climb maybe 5 days in a year, so don’t have the confidence to be doing big serious trad on HellsLum or anything. Just want to get som e mileage in. If you know something with mellow non serious Sev to HVS then tell me that..

Looks like I’ve got a week free to go climbing towards the end of October. Most likely Yorkshire if the weather plays ball.

Shout if you fancy meeting up in the Peak for a day.

Come to think of it, a trip to Almscliffev for a bit of GW and OHG would equally be amazing…. Been a long time.

If you know something with mellow non serious Sev to HVS then tell me that..

Huntley’s Cave, closer to Aviemore.

If it’s good over in Torridon then there are a few options. Stone Valley has lots of decent routes in that bracket.

Huntley’s Cave, closer to Aviemore

I tried a search, but all that comes up on UKC are loads of pictures of the Gunks 🙂

It’s just north of Granton on Spey, you’ll find it on the “find a crag” map.

@aldo56 – it was the indirect route, aye. Yeah I’d recommend it – would like to solo it for the experience as it’s fairly exposed climbing out of the gully onto the ridge proper. Would also like to do the Direct route.

Has an STW climbing meet been suggested? I’m really keen to do more climbing but struggle for partners who want to climb beyond Diff grades – not that I’m looking to push grades, but up to HVS kinda territory would be great.

Where you based Jimmy?

I’m in Manchester

Back to this weekend. Any views on the Nose of Sgurr s Choereachan  ( sp,)

(Would be a group of three)

Edinburgh.

My other issue is time and planning, but given notice it’s usually fine.

Looks good @jimmy, I’m Edinburgh based but not doing much climbing these days, I’ve started bouldering again with my Nephew at Eden Rock.
I was always happy cruising and enjoying the movement outside (up to about HVS) but inside pushing it.

Back to this weekend. Any views on the Nose of Sgurr s Choereachan ( sp,)

(Would be a group of three)

It’s superb and highly scenic. All pretty steady and reasonable pro. Could be busy (by Scottish standards) if the weather is good. There’s still a lot of ground to cover up the ridge after the Severe bit including some sections some might want to pitch.

@thegeneralist where did you end up then?

I’m pretty sure I saw a photo of sunset and a barbecue on Sgurr na Ciche in one of the other threads, so assume he did The Nose or a parallel route. (Not really stalking, as such)

Ey up.

Great weekend. Did Cairngorm/MacDui on Thursday.

Friday we did Sword of Gideon from Beallach na Ba.

Couldn’t do the nose as we only had about 3 hours.

Awesome camp on the pass.

Then Torridon Lollipop,

with another late finish

Supposed to do Seanna a Mhallaen(sp) on Sunday but with an eight hour drive on the cards I decided Moy would be more sensible.

Really enjoyed it. Lead 5 routes, which is ok as a three. Tried a lovely 6b+ up the middle of one of the walls. Lovely. Took a few big lobs trying to get the chain.

Anyway, excellent weekend. Not quite as hectic as my weekends used to be, but damn good.

Also quite special as my son is now almost the same age as I was last time I attempted Sword of Gideon 30 years ago. Really great to share these adventures with him.

Nice one. How good is Sword of Gideon?

Not changed very much in 32 years, judging by my old photo…

I recall it being steep, exposed and juggy. Brilliant.

I always had it in my head that I’d like to solo SoG because Patey soloed the FA. Turned up one day with a bunch of mates who were pitching it and just went for it, perhaps slightly emboldened by the fact that they could always rescue me if I bottled it. I obviously had the good head on because I came back down and soloed the direct start. That sort of stuff seems a long way away now!

Show us yer boards!

Anyone want to buy an Alfine wheel? 😉

35deg garden board from when we just built it in June. Now has plenty of wood holds on, some new, some used from a friend and some I made. Also lots more small screw-ons for feet to keep feet off the woods. Some resin slopers added too.

Board is 2.5 full size ply boards + small kickboard on a treated softwood frame. 3 full boards was just too tall for the location, but 2.5 still gives enough board space.

Nice. How practical is that being outdoors? I’m probably a bit further north than you but I know there would be plenty of nights in the winter I wouldn’t fancy doing an outside session.

The board is weatherproofed on the back and there’s a drip on the top edge so water doesn’t run/track onto the climbing face, so it’s always dry. But the landing /mat area will get wet. So dry days only really. Faces W so evening sun.

No space indoors, so only option was the garden. An indoor board would be amazing though. Son is asking for a campus board too, so might have to rebuild the pull up bar bit to the R to have a campus board.

You look you have some good height there for your indoor set up . Looks good.

Yeah, it works for me. It’s been through a few incarnations. Although I probably had the room for a proper board I didn’t think it would have worked much better other than being less boring to train on. I now just take the laptop out and watch something between sets so it’s not too soul crushing!

I’m likely to be floating around the North York Moors mon-wed or Thursday if anyone is about. Seems to be the only place with a decent looking forecast!

Got a rack and ropes but most likely to be soloing/bouldering.

I finally got my boys along to Eden rock. Eldest is pretty timid about trying new things but once he got into it he was flying, never stopped ran from problem to problem. Must have ticked off all the 1 grades in the front room about 5 times? his wee pal has been to clip and climb at ratho a few times so that’s our next trip. Youngest tried but he’s only 3 1/2 so didn’t really get it. He liked climbing the dinosaur holds but that soon lost it’s appeal, he did get to practice recognising his numbers though.

My nephew is facing his fear of heights and trying routes as well so all is good there.

Is that Eden Rock Edinburgh? I ended up there on Wednesday as it was too wet even to think about riding in the Borders!

Yeah.  Just along the road.

We did Glentress on the Tuesday, eden rock on Thursday. Youngest loves the green loop.

Sounds like we crossed paths! We did GT Thursday.

Was in the Lakes last week, took my daughter on her first “multi-pitch” – The Bell, a grade 1 scramble. She loved it, which is encouraging.

Bit of bouldering afterwards.

Was also speaking with a guy in the Climbers Shop who brought my attention to Centurion on Ben Nevis, which I think is now my target for 2025 (anyone?).

Was also speaking with a guy in the Climbers Shop who brought my attention to Centurion on Ben Nevis, which I think is now my target for 2025 (anyone?)

It’s an excellent route. Let me know if you’ve got a weekend but are short a partner, it’s only about an hour and a half drive for me.

Looks ace that @jimmy. I’ve been back climbing a couple of times in the last week or so, indoors but better than nothing. Determined to get back out regularly and get E1 ticked next year. I was getting towards it last this time last year.

Great stuff Jimmy.  Scrambling with our kids was the standout awesome adventure from when they were young. We nearly always did Whitsun week in the lakes and did some utterly amazing gyl scrambles.  The kids weren’t into actual rock climbing but the combination of swimming, jumping and climbing was perfect.

Wetsuit, buoyo, helmet and harness ….

The Esk Gorge must be one of the best scrambles of its type in the world. A kilometre or two of pools, traverses, falls, swims, jumps etc with everything apart from the last fall soloable. Really is outstanding.

Church Ghyll in Coniston is also good, but harder and colder.

Junior on his first via ferrata on Triglav, Slovenia. The Chickenman high on Carn Dearg essentially reversing a section of Bullroarer as part of a harder route. Carn Dearg is fantastic, get an early start on the routes to catch the sun.

@thegeneralist that sounds like the dream! I think we’ll get there with Ghyll scrambling but have a water-fearing worrisome mum to contend with too.

@spin if you fancy it I can put a date on it soon, just need to work around soon to be confirmed cub camp date.

… Centurion on Ben Nevis

That puts me in mind of The Bat and the Wicked

As a self confessed weirdo, can I say how much I relate to that piece of writing above, written by one of Scotland’s most famous climbing weirdos Robin Smith and featuring Dougal Haston, very much his match in this capacity:)

@jimmy sure, let me know.

Funny, the same guy who brought Centurion to my attention also talked about The Bat. Need to check that out.

Most folk reckon Torro is the route to go for there at E2 as the climbing is consistantly of a higher quality than The Bat although it doesn’t climb any eye catching features in the way The Bat does. if you want top notch Robin Smith then head to the Coe for Big Top, Yo-Yo, Shiboleth or the Gorms for Needle.

I was a bit underwhelmed by Torro but it was wet when I did it.