Sram X1 rear mech, gone slack?

After a gritty ride today I noticed that my chain was really slack, almost like the chain is too long. Once I got home I cleaned everything up to look for some damage, I can’t find anything else wrong. The spring is still springy and nothing looks bent.

Even if I fully tighten the B screw it’s still slightly slack. The bike is about a hundred miles old, is it goosed?

[/url]IMG_3247 by wagendeal[/url], on Flickr[/img]

What the hell?

I’ve only recently gone 1×11 but I can’t see the problem either?

Almost like someone’s added some links to your chain on the sly? Lol

Check the B screw is actually pushing against the tab. Sometimes your mech will come a bit loose and the B screw will slip off it so it isn’t pushing against anything

Defiantly got me baffled, the B screw does work, just not enough to completely tighten the chain. Thanks wiggles I will have a look at that tab tomorrow. Poopscoop- or someones shortened my chain stays lol.

Yah,wiggles comment is about all I can think of, it would make sense.

Or someone took a hack saw and araldite to your chainstays as you say! 😀

Doesn’t look like it’s the B screw tab ❓
[/url]IMG_3260 by wagendeal[/url], on Flickr[/img]

Do you have a picture of the chain when in the largest rear sprocket?

The b screw on sram mechs ride on the mech tab itself, is the mech tab actually in place against the hanger tab correctly?

Sir HC…

[/url]IMG_3252 by wagendeal[/url], on Flickr[/img]

Poopscoop- it looks like it’s all located correctly, but I’ve not pulled it apart yet. I have an X01 mech on my other bike so I will try swapping it tomorrow.

All I can say is it looks like the mech isn’t as stretched/ straight as mine on the 42t. Probably not relevant though.

More I think about it, it must be the mech tab not against the dropout tab correctly as someone mentioned above?

I’ll keep an eye on this thread as it’ll be handy for me to know the answer one day no doubt.

Oh, slightly relating to an issue I had when I first fitted me mech.

The mech isn’t actually fouling against itself? The cage specifically, against the round cable roller assembly…. When your in the 10t? ?

Poopscoop- No, not fouling at all. I really think the mech is faulty, but will have a look at the tab and or try swapping it tomorrow

Whatever you do DON’T try to tighten the clutch as per some guides online, Sram do not say you are supposed to do this and have started fitting a little peg which will start to rip the plastic off your mech if you turn the bolt so they know you have messed with it and voided your warranty…

To me it looks like the chain is too long.

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I like your workstand

I had a look at the location tabs, it isn’t really possible to get them wrong, convinced that the mech must be faulty so I swapped it with the X0 one on my Capra.[/url]IMG_3270 by wagendeal[/url], on Flickr[/img]

I also tried the the Capra one on the Marin…..just to be sure
[/url]IMG_3271 by wagendeal[/url], on Flickr[/img]

Chains too long isn’t it? The bike has been PDI’d by Tredz, assembled by myself, ridden around Hamsterely Forrest 3 times and done one lap of Dalbeattie without any dramas. Now the chains hanging off and I can’t tell why. Poopscoop’s theory now seems the most plausible

Chain device moved at all?

You have very clean bikes.

Hi Ben, it’s a good idea but there’s not enough adjustment on the chain device to improve things.

So both mechs “work” on Capra from the look of it?

Yet both exhibit same issue on the (rather nice by the way) Marin?

If it had just been built up it would for all the world look like the chain is too long.

Just didn’t make sense though given that the bikes been ridden a number of times since its been built.

Don’t suppose you have a pic of the bike prior to the last ride when you noticed the problem? You know, when it’s finally built and you just take a quick snap on your mobile just for the hell of it or whatever?

For comparisons sake basically.

Most odd, eh?

The replaceable mech hanger/dropout part of the frame- is there anyway that could have moved? Was it angled back somehow when the bike was setup and has since twisted forward? I’m not familiar with your dropout arrangement so I could be talking nonsense.

That’s a good shout busta, I will pull it apart tonight, see if it’s bent/moved. The only pics I have Poopscoop are in the wrong gear, I will try to take a picture of it tonight in the same gear as this photo [/url]IMG_3034 by wagendeal[/url], on Flickr[/img]

I guess maybe the OP hasn’t ridden anywhere, in those few rides, that required the use of the top few cogs where the issue would be evident?

[/quote] frogstomp
I guess maybe the OP hasn’t ridden anywhere, in those few rides, that required the use of the top few cogs where the issue would be evident?

Guess is got to be possible.

Shame there isn’t a pic of her in the 10t wagenwheel. Interesting post though either way.

Looking forward to seeing what the eventual cause was.

This photo shows how the chain is now(top), vs when the bike was new, I think it confirms that for some reason the chain was always slack 😳

Tredz have agreed to pay my local bikeshop to check and adjust it accordingly.

[/url]IMG_3288 by wagendeal[/url], on Flickr[/img]

I have exactly the same issue with my XX1 rear mech. My Chain length seems correct – based on the instructions you get. The only thing I can think of is there is a problem with the Mech, and as mine is 2.5 years old, I’ve not looked at changing it (yet).

I will be interested to see what your local shop says!

Looks like the chain is too long to me.

Glad it’s kind of sorted wagenwheel.

As Tredz are paying, make sure lbs use a new chain link. I’ve reused mine a few times but as your not paying (and it’s good practice/ cheap part) anyway…. 😉

Double check the mech is screwed in properly…I had a similar issue with mine…indexing was shot and mech seemed to be spinning round far too far…tightened up the mech and it was back to sorted…the b-screw didn’t do anything as the mech was rotating as it wasn’t tight against the frame.

Looks like your chain device could do with adjusting as well, the top guide should be a lot closer to the chainring. With a clutch mech, there is no need for a bottom roller.

This photo shows how the chain is now(top), vs when the bike was new, I think it confirms that for some reason the chain was always slack

Errm theres an obvious difference in the angle of the rear mech taking up the chain slack in those photos? Top one is having to take up more slack.

Bike shop took a link out, set the B screw, and now it’s all good 🙂

With a clutch mech, there is no need for a bottom roller.

I guess Marin thought it was necessary.

Glad you got it all sorted mate!