sram code rsc (newest sort) brake hose shortening?

anyone offer any help, i want to shorten the hoses on both my rsc brake hoses – not by much just so many cm’s so i can get the routing better out front

what do i need to do this? can the hoses be unthreaded from the lever, cut and then threaded back in? the a re-bleed? so basically all i need is a bleed kit?

You’ll need a new barb and compression fitting you cant reuse em once you’ve unscrewed the cable. They’re called ‘stealthamajig’ and there are plenty of online shops that sell em.
Yes you will need a bleed too since you will introduce air. Maybe only a minor one though since all the work is at the lever end.
If it’s only a few cm do you really need to do it….. Fair enough if you have reams of cable flapping about the handle bars but might be too much hassle for a cm or 2

hmmm are the barb and compression things easily sourceable? i cant seem to find them on there own? only stealthamjig i can see is for reverbs?

yeh really do need to do it, my ocd level is doing my head in, and they are battering into each other

managed find a few barbs and olives on ebay, just bought a bleed kit, so should be all set to give it a whirl 🙂

wish me luck

Was just going to suggest ebay as you can buy small numbers of barbs and olives.  Did mine recently and the whole thing was simple as the screw connections and bleeding edge are a doddle to do.

I think I got some with my SRAM bleed kit ?

If you bought the brakes separately rather than coming on a build they will have come with the barb and olive as they sort of expect you to trim them from new. Thew newest SRAM use the bleeding edge syringes so hopefully you got them when you bought the bleed kit.

Just shortened hoses (very carefully) x2 on new G2 RSs using stealthamajig thingummyjigs and didn’t need to bleed. Dead easy.

ETA: Simply sharing because of a) my own disbelief and b) If you go carefully (no swinging the hose around above your head – keep it upright, keep the lever level, sharp blade and insert/screw new barb straight and gently) you may not need to bleed them at all.

@willjones

Define ‘carefully’ please 🙂

Would ideally prefer just shorten them at present without the faff of bleeding then save learning bleed for winter when I can’t be arsed go out

Sorry – yes think you caught me mid-edit. I’m once bitten twice shy with bleeding ‘Avid’ brakes, so called the local shop and they said I could come back in October or have a go myself because it’s easy and probably wouldn’t need a bleed. They were right. Then I thought I’d try the same on my reverb. lol.

SRAM nailed it with Bleeding Edge, is a 10 min job.

A world away from trying to open bleed nipple while pulling brake lever and topping up the reservoir all whilst tying not to cover everything in dot fluid (Hope monos, I’m looking at you).

Ps buy a hose cutter, a fiver and makes life much easier too.

thanks you two for the info – willjones – sounds like ill either get lucky or not! ive actually bled a reverb (newest one) a few times and got lucky 2 times out of 3 that i disconnected the hose, the first two times it worked like perfectly without the need of any bleeding, and the 3rd time i had to had to do it, it needed a full on bleed…no logic really…

i need to bite the bullet and learn properly to do it, bought a full kit from total bleed solutions so hopefully will be straight forward, few vids ive seen it does look as straight forward as a reverb bleed…..but hopefully this first time ill just get away with shortening the hose

Brakes are easier than the reverb to bleed as you don’t need to hold the lever end connection, it screws in, and the calliper end connection (the bleeding edge bit) is a firmer connection.

cheers – the sram and the ozzie guy vids on youtube look really easy! so fingers crossed it is the case

nice one 🙂

righty – kinda went pretty well, bleeding edge seems a very good idea for bleeding, process was easy

i couldnt just cut the hoses sadly, oil gushed out immediately so i had no choice

soooo, i manage to bleed the front pretty well, no bubbles, i pushed the pistons all the way in before bleeding, and put bleed block in

when i come to put my part worn pads back in after, it was very hard to align them without rubbing? something i didnt have a problem with before the bleed, and especially as they are partly worn id think it would be easier to align?

so does this mean there is too much oil in system? if so how do i sort it out??

You’ll need a new barb and compression fitting you cant reuse em once you’ve unscrewed the cable. They’re called ‘stealthamajig’ and there are plenty of online shops that sell em.

I did this – just this week. With care, bleeding wasn’t necessary – although I have shortened a lot of hoses and I take my time…

yeh didnt work for me sadly, mainly as the hose flopped down immediately ha!

I only have Code Rs, but is there a requirement to back off adjusters on an RSC like you need to with a Reverb?  If the answer is yes a quick rebleed with the adjusters in the right position should help.

EDIT: Here you go – For brakes with contact point adjustment, unwind the dial in the opposite direction of the arrow until it stops. First measure the distance between your lever blade and the grip and then adjust the lever blade until it is 75-80mm from the center of the grip. 

Pad alignment has always been a dark art regardless of what discs I have had (SRAM, Shimano, Formula, Hope).  I tend to hand/eye align the calipers these days rather than squeeze the lever and tighten up.  I never seem to get complete alignment though as rotors always end up with very slight warps which I can never fully get out.

razorrazoo – yep wound the dials opposite way of arrow and levers were already at about 75mm so no problems there

yeh maybe its just the way it is for the time being till its bedded in, i wondered if the lever end perhaps had excess fluid or something, but the pistons were fully retracted before bleeding – might try it again, as its good practice and lube up the pistons with the dot fluid see if they are maybe being lazy….i can get it spin dont get me wrong, its not coming to abrubt halt but its catching at some point no matter how much i try, and ive never had this issue on these before in 3 years ownership…always got the drag/catch free

guessing if take pads out now, open the bleed port slightly on the lever, and then depress all the pistons, a bit of excess oil may seep out of the lever port if thats the cause??

when i come to put my part worn pads back in after, it was very hard to align them without rubbing? something i didnt have a problem with before the bleed, and especially as they are partly worn id think it would be easier to align?

so does this mean there is too much oil in system? if so how do i sort it out??

Did you put the pads back in the same way? If not, a small amount of oblique pad wear will be amplified. Try swapping the pads round, but IME they’ll sort themselves out after a couple of rides.

If the bleed block you used was the right size for the caliper gap then shouldn’t be overbleeding. I presume if you put part-worn pads in, you had to pump the brake a few times to get the piston to self-adjust? If so then this is not a symptom of overbleeding.

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when i come to put my part worn pads back in after, it was very hard to align them without rubbing? something i didnt have a problem with before the bleed, and especially as they are partly worn id think it would be easier to align?

so does this mean there is too much oil in system? if so how do i sort it out??

Did you put the pads back in the same way? If not, a small amount of oblique pad wear will be amplified. Try swapping the pads round, but IME they’ll sort themselves out after a couple of rides.

If the bleed block you used was the right size for the caliper gap then shouldn’t be overbleeding. I presume if you put part-worn pads in, you had to pump the brake a few times to get the piston to self-adjust? If so then this is not a symptom of overbleeding.

hey, cheers

no thats a good point, i didnt make note of which was from which side, so fair point if theyve gone in the wrong way it would make some sense as to why its out now, i shall swap them around before trying anything else, guess it can only be one way or the other 🙂

as for bleed block, it didnt fit totally flush in, there was a bit of a gap but i put some thick tissue around to really secure it in place, when i took it out the pistons were still fully pushed back so nothing weird had happened that way

but yes when id finished it all, i had to pump the lever about 3 times before it bit to the pads (it was squishy the first 2 pulls and thought id failed ha!) so sounds like its not overbled then?

well got it sorted rub wise

i gave the pistons a good clean with silicone (hope stuff)and pushed in and out a few times get them moving – then one popped out LOL , so it did me a favour really, as i had to bleed it again

this time it worked straight away, when aligning pads back up loads more space to manouvre and play about with aligment, literally got it done within a minute to no rub, so not sure what happened 1st bleed i did but there was just no space at all, could have been sticky pistons or something to do with the bleed

back brake worked first time straight away, bled and aligned

very very very satisfying job, something ive never got around to learning and something thats fairly straight forward

the levers feel rock solid now, no squishy throw at all (front one hasnt been bled for way over a year plus)