Show me your saddle to bar height drop pictures.

I wouldn’t say it’s fashionable, in my case it’s unavoidable.

I have found hamstring stretching is a huge benefit in terms of getting happy leaning forward on the bike

My saddle drop is huge. This is not a planned thing but a consequence of really long legs and knees that are really only happy at road bike height
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bike[/url] by John Clinch[/url], on Flickr

I reckon my bars are about an inch or two higher than the saddle on my Trance.

Renton, your frame size sounds perfect for your height.

If you’re getting any sort of knee pain, go and speak to a bike shop – it could be caused by various things, including your saddle being too low.

Make sure your shock pressures are correct for your riding weight. If your rear suspension sags too much, with the lay-back on your seat post, you’ll be lurching your upper body forward on climbs which won’t be comfortable.

As everyone has said, it’s personal preference – my only advice is don’t lower your bars, and keep them at least level with the saddle, if not a tiny bit higher.

renton – Member
Where am I going wrong then and why doesn’t it feel “right”??

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move your seat forward 1cm and fit a 60mm stem and roll your bars back a bit (so the sweep is back rather than upwards) see how you go with that 😉

For some good no nonsense advice on fitting that doesn’t just try to squeeze you in to a formulaic box check out stevehoggbikefitting.com

Of course amount of saddle to bar drop is also very discipline dependent.

MTB

I’m comfy on this for hours

Track

I wouldn’t want to have to ride this for much more than about 45 minutes at a time.

Ryan Trebon’s cross bike

Adam hansen

Right just for starters I have moved the saddle forward a bit and put some more air in the shock as I have to much sag.

Riding to work shortly so will see how it goes.

Christ those Ridleys are gorgeous!

Don’t know why you’re obsessing over the details of what someone suggests is the ‘correct’ way to set a bike up.

I’ve never read anything that mentions elbows on saddle, finger on stem, knee over axle, etc.

Set it up so it feels right, if something feels odd, change it so it doesn’t.

FWIW, I wouldn’t have that long a stem, i’d run something shorter, with a wider bar rolled further back, as someone else mentioned, and (maybe due to the photo angle) put the nose of the saddle down just a fraction.

[/url]Salsa Horsethief by sandwicheater1[/url], on Flickr[/img]

image by Plus one2010[/url], on Flickr

I’m all legs

Untitled by Plus one2010[/url], on Flickr

I think it would help Renton if everyone only posted photos of mountain bikes, and with them side-on to the camera so there’s no perspective 😉

Renton – follow the instructions for air pressure/rider weight for your shock. For example, my ride weight is about 85kg (with full camelbak) and I set my RP23 to 200psi. I wasn’t suggesting you pump it up to keep the frame upright. Use the o-ring to measure sag – aim for about 20%.

Medium Frame (18″), 32″ inside leg. Seatpost is a an inch too high in this photo.

I deadlift 150kgs 3 times a week

lifting hookers into the boot doesn’t count as core work. (Unless you top one every night).

It’s surprisingly hard to find a pick of my bikes propped up against something immovable and square on…

Saddle has dropped a bit on the this one. I have also now added a longer (70mm) stem and Jones Bars.

This feels bang on to me. I have since added Bar ends too. They may or may not be staying.

Where did you buy the bike??

They should never have let you leave with it like that!

You have a whole bunch of spacers under a long stem that has a serious rise to it, add to this riser bars rotated up.

The good news is that you have plenty of room for improvement.

The bars need to be rotated so that the sweep is just that, a rearward sweep.

Then pop half of the spacers above the stem.

Then think about the saddle end of things.

You have a laid back seat post on there… that could be swapped to an inline, this will bring you forward an inch.

Start there and then go ride… not for 10 minutes but for 10 miles, do that 3 times and see how it feels.

Oh and don’t forget that suspension set up is important too. Get that wrong and you can end up with the geo being out. A soft rear shock with too much sag for example will tilt the seat tube backwards etc.

Mtb nut.

I bought the bike secondhand of the internet.

I have the saddle that far back as I was trying to get me knee over or slightly behind the pedal spacer.

Initally it did come with some spacers above the stem but I moved them in an eoffrt to get the bars higher. I have also added a higher rise bar. It does look as thought he rise is pointing up in the picture but in real life its pretty flat witht he sweep going backwards.

To me the bike feels great length wise but its trying to get the bars at the correct height/position for me.

I am going to try a shorter stem in a week or so.

Off road (100 mm stem, no less, 6 cm drop to the grips)

Road (8 cm drop)

What’s that stem called on the giant?

Warpcow as I mentioned before when I move the saddle forward a bit I get a bit of muscle pain just above the knee

Tight Quads?

These are mine, although I do have very long limbs for my height hence the somewhat extreme drop! Bike setup is very personal though, have a fiddle with everything and see what’s comfortable. Just because it works for one person doesn’t make it right for everyone.

http://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/2015-giant-trance-275-2

FFS, you are having a laugh.

b r Whats your point?

Thanks for the free advertising btw ! 🙄

Tandem (around 6cm):

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Singlespeed (about 8cm):

Race bike (around 8cm):

Road bikes (around 10cm):