Show me you new style SLX cranks, preferably 1x setup

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Just incase anyone else was toying with the idea, here’s mine that I bought last week.

Double post

Oscillate Wildly – Member
kayak – i fitted mine last night too,

What size ring?

So I am running an SLX double and am toying with the idea of going 1×10, narrow/wide and clutch. I don’t want the hassle of swapping out my SLX cranks.

Based on the above thread it seems that 32T is a challenge, however possible with spacers run to offset the ring so the chain misses the tabs (effectively mimicking what RF have done with their 30T).

Has anyone done this and if so what thickness spacers are required?

Also has anyone tried a 33T without spacing (an who makes a 33T narrow/wide ring)?

Finally who aside from RF makes a narrow/wide?

Thanks.

33T is not possible with a thick/thin chain ring….think about it!

😆

I blame the kids for getting me up early 😳

Update. Bit the bullet and went with a 32t RF narrow wide. Set it up tonight with 1.2mm spacers on my SLX double to counteract chain rub on the ring and all seems fine on a round the block spin. Spacers are so narrow that you can’t notice any real aesthetic difference and shifted up and down the cassette without issue. Used the chainring bolts that were already on. Conclusion, it can be done with a 32t on an SLX double with no modification to the spider.

Razorrazoo

Did you encounter any issues in the long term with this. Ready to build bike and came across this issue tonight.

Using 32t rf nw and slx double.

Really interested in this too.

Going 1×10 with XT and RF and wondering if I can do it with double m670 too ?

Scandal – no problems so far.

Matter01, I assume you mean the latest SLX double specific crank? If so yes but for 32t ring you will either need to file the tabs slightly to give clearance or use 1.2 mm spacers between the tabs and chainring which is what I am doing with no problems. If going 30t he raceface ring has spacing machined into it.

This guy has a 32T on an SLX double. He ground/filed the inside of the tabs slightly, I spaced mine, but pic shows it can be done.

Topic here

For spacers I used these. I used 2 x 0.6mm per bolt as was not sure what spacing I would need. So if you are buying you will be fine with 1.2mm. I used the bolts that came with the chainset.

Possible stupid question.

I thought that the new slx/deore all had removable spiders. If you want to run a single ring, can you not run a guide ring or similar?

Not sure, but the narrow wide rings need a 104 BCD so the spider is required, whole point of a narrow wide is to remove the need for a guide.

I thought that the new slx/deore all had removable spiders.

I think they just look like that. Anyone able to confirm?

By the way I recommend using double chainring bolts if spacing the ring from the SLX double spider.. I used the bolts that came with the chainset first off and they worked loose really quickly. The longer double bolts fit fine with the spacers and the extra thickness of the narrow wide ring.

Not SLX, but LX, so two out of three ain’t bad 😆

Pic of spacing to fit 32t on SLX double chainset

Quick update on this with the SLX double cranks. The 1.2mm spacing of the 32T ring shown in the pic above has been increased to 2mm as I found on a particularly wet ride that mud was gathering on the tabs and interfering. 2mm gives much better space for mud clearance, at the same time I decided to slightly bevel the tops of the tabs with a file (on the inside edge) to make sure. No issues since and running nice and quiet. Still not dropped a chain yet either.

Hope I am posting in the right thread… I am currently running an XT rear clutch mech in a 1×10 setup with an SLX M675 crank and narrow-wide 34T chainring:

Rear Derailleur: Shimano XT M786
Crankset: Shimano SLX M675
Cassette: Shimano SLX 11-36
Chainring: Rapide 34T narrow-wide

Everything works fine, I love the 1×10 setup. Am not getting any chainslap on the chainstay although it does swing side-to-side a bit on bumps, though so far that doesn’t seem to be an issue.

I don’t know if I’m just being paranoid, but the completely exposed chainring concerns me in terms of protecting it from knocks, and protecting me from it, so I was thinking of adding a bashguard of some type.

I’ve read this whole thread and others and am still totally confused as to what bashguard will be compatible with this crank and chainring setup. Would something like this Blackspire Defender work? Would you run a 36T bash for a 34T chainring?

Should I be looking at some kind of chain device as well, or is it not really needed with the NW chain and clutch mech combo?

Will appreciate if someone can kindly enlighten me…

That looks nice. Never ran a bash with a double or single. I guess you only need a bash and guide if you’re doing lots of rocky places?

That looks nice. Never ran a bash with a double or single. I guess you only need a bash and guide if you’re doing lots of rocky places?

I suspect a bash may may be overkill, but I’d like to have some protection just in case…

This is a 1×10 with a Zee clutch mech and it’s been impeccable. I’ve been down some really bone-shaking trails but no hint of a dropped chain.

Will the old M665 double take a 32T?

Yes (I run one with a 32T & 22 double and bash set up, the tabs are just the same as the triple version. i know they came with a 36T as standard but the only difference between the actual cranks is the steel pedal thread inserts on the double & bash version)

[/url]Solaris on the bridge by 55b7bb821ed24e40ecaad9db375d2e57[/url], on Flickr[/img]

Heres mine with XT chainrings fitted.

Thats great, thanks steel4real.

Well I went ahead and got the 36T Blackspire Defender bashguard…. Installation was very easy indeed, it comes with a whole set of new bolts. And the 36T is perfect size for my 34T chainring. It’s a nice bit of kit.

And don’t forget that as well as protecting your chain & ring, the bash also helps protect you from injury.

Anyone know if the new m670 m675 cranks are lighter than the older ones ?

SLX cranks with Race Face NW and WolfTooth bolts