Sense check… keep or remove SRAM AXS Transmission from a new bike

Would you replace with a cable drivetrain from the off? On a low power eMTB.

I wasn’t looking for it but it’s included in the spec level I want for the other components.

I’ve test ridden it, it was ok but missed a few things about Shimano XT 12 speed. Lack of feedback, there’s minimal feel from the buttons and you don’t hear the noise of the chain moving. Also no feedback from the button that you’ve reached the top/bottom of the cassette. Doesn’t shift immediately, and particularly slow when say you want to shift 5 gears up/down in a short space of time. When things get a bit hectic on the trail those things mattered. But it does shift well and cleanly under load.

I’ll need to keep the battery charged (fine to do on routine with the bike’s own battery), and buy a spare for £45 in case I forget or it runs out in the car due to the motion detected activation. I should take the battery out and replace it with a supplied battery block when I wash my bike. I should carry a coin cell battery with me for the shifter or just replace it early every half year.

Maintenance – here it’s a plus as unfortunately the bike has headset cable routing, and the internal routing is clipped in the downtube rather than sleeved. One of the clips is part of the charging port internally so to change the housing you’d need to pull all that out, also needs a £50 tool to reach in to do it. Not that I replace housing often anyway. Maybe you could add your own sleeve in the clips, and put the cable through that rather than directly in the clips. Why do I choose such an awkward bike, well so many of the light eMTBs have it, I can’t make it a deal breaker.

Cost of running (GX) – cassettes are £200, chainrings £65, chains £45. All proprietary and no 3rd party options. The chainring in 32T only comes in aluminium, and the biggest cog on the cassette is also aluminium. God forbid I smash the derailleur it’s £360. There’s a cheaper S1000 range coming out (currently OEM only) which I could gradually move to as things wear out.

Cost to change – £225 for all the Shimano Deore 12spd parts, XT shifter, and the requisite freehub. Bike shop labour to do it with their skills, patience, and special tool. Call it £275. Then sell the removed bits, definitely more than breaks even.

On balance, I think I might keep it at least until the original cassette wears out. WWSTD?

Isn’t it meant to reduce drivetrain wear on e-bikes?

I accidentally bought a new (not eeb) bike with Transmission on it, in the CRC fire sale and had the same thoughts about atripping it off and selling it.

Kept it

Love it

We have it on our Turbo Levos and wouldn’t go back.

I have AXS on 3 bikes (an eMTB and 2 gravel bikes) and Ultegra di2 on the others 2 (road and eroad). I wouldn’t go back to cable shifting on any of them.

Shifter batteries last for ages and so do the rear mech batteries. TBH if you can’t keep on top of that, you shouldn’t really be buying an e-bike. If it’s going in the car just take the mech battery out when you load it in.
If you run a Garmin you can pair the bike and it will give you a read out of the gear you’re in. It will also give a beep to let you know you’ve ran out of gears, which is really depressing on a normal bike.

I’ve had a a for about 6 months and have a few thoughts on some of your points.

You get used to not being able to hear the clicks or feel the physical feedback on the top/bottom cog.

Living with batteries is okay, keep a spare shifter battery with your pump etc and check your derailleur battery after each ride and you should be fine unless you’re planning a big ride. I don’t bother taking the battery out to clean the bike but don’t use a jetwash, I would take it out if you’re driving more than 30 minutes or so though.

The main benefit I’ve found is that I don’t have to make any adjustments as the cable stretches which means every shift has been perfect so far.

Would you replace with a cable drivetrain from the off?

God no, it’s amazing stuff. The only issue I’ve had was when the charger got lost in the van on a trip away but that is my fault not the system.

Mates axs got stuck in 5th gear on final stage of pmba yesterday, no idea what caused it and obviously any drivetrain can fail but he wasn’t happy!

I’m not ready to switch to it yet but if it came on a bike I was buying, especially an e-bike that needs charging anyway, then I would definitely keep it.

Great to hear you all like it!

Isn’t it meant to reduce drivetrain wear on e-bikes?

It is, and I’m sure it does in most respects. However the aluminium 32T chainring and big cog on the cassette will still wear faster than steel.

Shifter batteries last for ages and so do the rear mech batteries. TBH if you can’t keep on top of that, you shouldn’t really be buying an e-bike. If it’s going in the car just take the mech battery out when you load it in.
If you run a Garmin you can pair the bike and it will give you a read out of the gear you’re in. It will also give a beep to let you know you’ve ran out of gears, which is really depressing on a normal bike.

I read 25 hours for the mech, and 2 years at 15 hours per week for the shifter. Should be plenty really. I’ll definitely be able to keep on top of it, just a few little habits to get on top of. That Garmin beep sounds great, unfortunately I run mine on silent to prevent all the incessant beeping.

Living with batteries is okay, keep a spare shifter battery with your pump etc and check your derailleur battery after each ride and you should be fine unless you’re planning a big ride. I don’t bother taking the battery out to clean the bike but don’t use a jetwash, I would take it out if you’re driving more than 30 minutes or so though.

Yes I’ll get into the habit of checking and removing, but also get a spare to keep in the car.

I’m not ready to switch to it yet but if it came on a bike I was buying, especially an e-bike that needs charging anyway, then I would definitely keep it.

Indeed. The benefits are supposedly more worth it, and there’s a natural trigger to charge it.

+1 on never going back to cable. I got my 1st AXS groupset when it first came out in 2019, still haven’t needed to change a shifter battery.

Being on an ebike means being in the wrong gear isn’t as much of an issue as on a regular one.

pretty sure aftermarket chainrings are available for transmission now too.

the motion sensor works on G forces, so unless you drive to the trail always at full throttle or hard on the brakes, it’s not an issue. I don’t take the batteries of of mine and have never had an issue.

One of the pogo pins for battery connection died at the weekend, leaving me stuck in 3rd for 30km.

Still wouldn’t go back to cables though.

I test rode a bike with AXS GX. I really didn’t like it and would have striped and sold the bits for Shimano mechanical. The price of the rear mech alone would make me say nope.

pretty sure aftermarket chainrings are available for transmission now too.

Yes, although all the ones I’ve seen are of a plain design i.e. not the special profile as found on the official one. I’ll definitely try one when due for replacement.

so unless you drive to the trail always at full throttle or hard on the brakes, it’s not an issue. I don’t take the batteries of of mine and have never had an issue.

Interesting. I see you can check the precise battery level using the app, so I could check that to see if driving consumes any amount worth worrying about. You’d think that being on consumes relatively little vs. actuating shifts.

I don’t like transmission for some of the reasons you outlined in your OP but I don’t dislike it enough to switch.  That’s be double if the bike had headset routing for cables.

I also ride a lot more than 25 hours plus drive to / from the trail head without issue.  I suspect it depends a bit on terrain – I’m a lot of winch / plummet so not much shifting. If you are XC racing then things might be different….

On the battery discharging when in/on car, I have found that if the bike is lying flat inside the car it doesn’t deplete at all, however if upright on towbar rack it can lose half its charge in an hour or 2 driving,

I test rode a bike with AXS GX. I really didn’t like it and would have striped and sold the bits for Shimano mechanical. The price of the rear mech alone would make me say nope.

If it wasn’t for the frame design being hostile to cables, I almost certainly would do that.

That’s be double if the bike had headset routing for cables.

Was this trend all SRAM’s idea all along!

So it’s not a direct mount chain ring? What is it then?

Doh its an ebike

Had GX AXS on my mtb for I guess three years now, still on the original mech battery. Can’t say I noticed shifting being slow on the trail. Had a small branch run through the mech which had to be prised out and bent the cage slightly, hit it many times on many things, still works perfectly. Would never go back to cables.

Also, if you put it in the 52t and whip the mech battery out no thieving douchebag can ride it any faster than about 5kph if they try to steal it while you’re waiting on post ride chips.

Good tip!

onegearnoidea

Free Member

Also, if you put it in the 52t and whip the mech battery out no thieving douchebag can ride it any faster than about 5kph if they try to steal it while you’re waiting on post ride chips.

User name checks out….

Are you remembering to refit the battery afterwards?

I’ve ridden for a good few hours with my Garmin warning me my battery was low on axs, didn’t stop it shifting. My shifter was low battery for 6 months changed it at the weekend.

You can set them up to shift more gears on a long hold. 3 at a time is spot on, whole block is silly fast and also I think voids warranty if done on ebikes.

My axs XO was bashed off some big rocks in Andorra and still works perfectly. My GX also still going strong. My user error is I’ve set them up to shift up and down on different buttons. Which shouldn’t work but I can’t undo it because it works. (Upshift is top button on one bike and lower button on the other)

Also axs dropper, oh my God normal reverb lever is so stiff after that.

iaincFull Member
On the battery discharging when in/on car, I have found that if the bike is lying flat inside the car it doesn’t deplete at all, however if upright on towbar rack it can lose half its charge in an hour or 2 driving,

How is 2 hours in the car using 12h worth of battery?

I do find this interesting.  to me the idea of electronic shifting marks a big split in cycling between those for whom its a simple machine and want to keep i tthat way and those who want every latest gadget.

For me its a deal breaker in that I will not buy a bike with it.  I believe in KISS Its an expensive complex solution in search of a problem

How is 2 hours in the car using 12h worth of battery?

no idea, but it happens.  I have heard of folks arriving at event with flat AXS batteries after a few hrs drive too.  I think the car movement must keep it jogging position or something.

I think the car movement must keep it jogging position or something.

more than riding?

I’ve had to rearrange bikes where something has shifted and pressed one of the shifter buttons so the mech is constantly trying to shift, guess that could be it.

I believe in KISS Its an expensive complex solution

For the user, it really couldnt be any simpler. Bolt on, pair, ride.

defo remove it.

and sell the mech, cassette and shifter to me for £50.

Much love.

My shifter was low battery for 6 months changed it at the weekend.

Oh so there’s a warning?

those for whom its a simple machine and want to keep i tthat way and those who want every latest gadget.

And those who are the former but end up with it anyway because all but the most basic spec levels include it!

For me its a deal breaker in that I will not buy a bike with it.

I went into this thinking it and headset cable routing would be deal breakers. It’s just so prevalent on some classes of bike, I’d have had to rule out a lot of the already few options.

For the user, it really couldnt be any simpler. Bolt on, pair, ride.

Its really not – read the thread with folk having issues and also a load of electronics, batteries and servos is not simpler than a cable.

The aim of KISS is to reduce failure points.  You have less failure points in a cable than in the electronics.  I don’t think I have ever had issues with cable shifting that could be solved by electronic shifting.

As I say its a split in cycling about how you view things.

tjagainFull Member
I do find this interesting.  to me the idea of electronic shifting marks a big split in cycling between those for whom its a simple machine and want to keep i tthat way and those who want every latest gadget.

For me its a deal breaker in that I will not buy a bike with it.  I believe in KISS Its an expensive complex solution in search of a problem

I agree with the philosophy, but we’ve all seen the explosions in a spaghetti factory that were your e-bike conversions ?

Have to say…no matter how many my rear end has been, the shifting is precise ever single time. I’ve not had that on a cable system…not an every day occurrence, but the fact it never needs tweaking is brilliant.

I agree with the philosophy, but we’ve all seen the explosions in a spaghetti factory that were your e-bike conversions ?

You are thinking of someone else – mine were neat and tidy  🙂

Can’t remember when I last had to tweak a mech.

I have no real issue with electric shifting – its just not for me.

I do find this interesting.  to me the idea of electronic shifting marks a big split in cycling between those for whom its a simple machine and want to keep i tthat way and those who want every latest gadget.

For me its a deal breaker in that I will not buy a bike with it.  I believe in KISS Its an expensive complex solution in search of a problem

Yes and No I reckon, definitely a gadget fans option, but also you do get  better, faster, more precise shifting. You could argue that AXS meets the KISS principle as you just bolt parts on and no longer need to trouble yourself with the old Bowden cables.

The problem for me comes with product life and plain old price, it’s not cheap stuff (it may become cheaper of course) but I just don’t trust either of the big S’s not to us leccy shifting to drive forced Obsolescence or incompatibility (Shimano sort of already did it once with Ultegra Di2 6770 to 6870) via firmware and/or just not supporting compatible spares for more than a few years at a time…

The problem for me comes with product life and plain old price, it’s not cheap stuff (it may become cheaper of course) but I just don’t trust either of the big S’s not to us leccy shifting to drive forced Obsolescence or incompatibility (Shimano sort of already did it once with Ultegra Di2 6770 to 6870) via firmware and/or just not supporting compatible spares for more than a few years at a time…

That’s my gripe with it. Surely there’s nothing really to stop them being compatible, even if it needs a little widget box for the interface.  Especially the 11-12 speed compatibility. Sure they could have said the old stuff won’t work on 11-34 or something, but they could at least have patched the firmware with 12 clicks!

Hence why I like the L-Twoo setup. In principle the same system can work with any cassette because you can input the number of steps and the spacing. Anything from 12s Transmission, to 13s Ekar, to an old 8s retro build on the same kit.

There’s a few niggles like reviewers bricking mechs doing clumsy maintenance, and they had to remove the auto-trim feature. but on the other the whole groupset is cheaper than some mechs and it seems to ‘just work’ just as well as the big brands. And it takes AAA batteries!

My only real issue with AXS is the cost – there is a lot of technology and bits in there and they do cost money, but the price to the consumer is huge. The price of AXS is high (although it does tend to last well) and is a definite barrier. However, maybe that is good as I’m not sure how much of it is recycleable when it does finally fail.

Like everything ‘new’ plenty people won’t be keen on the idea of having to recharge a battery every 4-7 weeks – many seem to manage to plug their phone in to recharge every night, but this seems a whole new level of inconvenience. If you are even slightly curious I’d suggest you try it and see how you get on with it.

The new T-Type isn’t something I’ve got and to be honest, I don’t think I’d be keen on it – I like the rapid gear change and I rarely do more than 2 shifts at a time and I don’t tend to do it under load…so the advantages of T-Type aren’t as good for me, but non-T-Type is utterly brilliant for my use, just wish it was cheaper. I’ve not managed to write-off a rear mech since I went to AXS, which I’m thankful for as it is going to sting massively if that does happen.

 I just don’t trust either of the big S’s not to us leccy shifting to drive forced Obsolescence or incompatibility

This is my main worry about it also

You could argue that AXS meets the KISS principle as you just bolt parts on and no longer need to trouble yourself with the old Bowden cables.

It really does not.  You are replacing two components with many and introducing more failure points

I think you can view KISS on this from 2 different perspectives which are both correct, but conflict.

From an installation, setup and mechanical failure  (or degregation) point of view, AXS is simpler.

From a battery charging and potential for electonics failure perspective. Cables are simpler