Home Forums Bike Forum Reverb Stealth – how does the Connectamajig work?

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  • Reverb Stealth – how does the Connectamajig work?
  • DickBarton
    Full Member

    Hi,

    My Stealth post isn’t long enough (380mm with 125mm drop) and I’ve now got a 420mm replacement…I’m assuming the connectamajig can be disconnected from the existing post and swapped to the new post – but I’m really unsure how it works. I can’t find anything online that explains it and there isn’t anything in the way of a manual with the new version.

    Can someone please explain how I disconnect it and then reconnect it please? I’ll disconnect both and then plug the new post into the existing cabling and the existing post into the new cabling…and then sell the existing post.

    Thanks.

    bigjim
    Full Member
    benpinnick
    Full Member

    You need a 9mm and 6 mm spanner. Attach the 9mm to the flat slot at the base of the black knurled part, and the 6mm over the flat edge of the silver part (see pic). Then if you have the spanners as I do, use the 9 to hold the black part, and the 6 to unscrew the silver part. Once you break the lock, you can spin the black part off by hand and the hose will disconnect. To attach just do the opposite 🙂 Note though that ball valve inside the black part is sprung loaded and you will need push in the new (or rather old) hose before it will engage with the thread inside the black part.

    DickBarton
    Full Member

    Thanks…will give that a bash.

    Will also see what that Sram link is as I hadn’t found that, cheers.

    DickBarton
    Full Member

    Bottoms…of the widest order…’old’ one doesn’t have a connectamajig…so that was a whole load of cash wasted…best go get the new one up for sale. As everything is threaded through the frame, I’m not going to put it into a shop to rethread and bleed the brake and get the new seatpost fitted…eejit, I should have just left it as it is. Both 2015 posts…mildly annoying as it turns out it was rather easy to split the connectamajig setup.

    falkirk-mark
    Full Member

    I cut (shortened) my hose at the switch end without a rebleed, also for threading through frame can you not attach string to old hose and pull out then reattach to new hose and pull back through.

    DickBarton
    Full Member

    The attachment at the end of the seatpost is different – new post is the Connectamajig, the existing post isn’t…I was planning on swapping the post and leaving the hose in place to save hassle…so the new post can’t fit the existing attachment…and the thought of rethreading that and the brake hose (there are rubber ‘spacers’ for the frame to keep things tidy that will need to be replaced so the hose on the brake needs broken as well to get the rubber ‘spacers’ reseated…

    nickdavies
    Full Member

    Doesn’t the remote hose attach to the connectamjig the same way as it attaches to a regular seatpost, screwed in barb?

    Can you not cut the hose off the old and new posts, trim the cut bit down with a cable cutter and then refit the hoses to the respective posts? I’ve not done a connectamajig post but i’ve changed standard stealth hose and it’s not too bad a job.

    DickBarton
    Full Member

    Nope, not that I can tell…barb is different to the connectamajig…although I didn’t unscrew the barb so it may be similar but I doubt the barb has the ball valve bit.

    br
    Free Member

    Why not just remove the old post and install the new one?

    DickBarton
    Full Member

    Due to the faff level…would need to be retreated through a few internal tubes and spacers and the rear brake.would need done as well for the spacer to be fixed.
    All this to have extra tubing in my frame when it turns out it isn’t needed…so I’ll sell the one I bought to replace the one I was going to sell…

    nickdavies
    Full Member

    Nope, not that I can tell…barb is different to the connectamajig…although I didn’t unscrew the barb so it may be similar but I doubt the barb has the ball valve bit.

    The ball valve barb bit you would put onto your old hose in the frame. The 2 hoses look to be identical so I can’t see why this wouldn’t work? As long as you have enough hose left in the frame to cut 10mm off and rejoin it.

    br
    Free Member

    All this to have extra tubing in my frame when it turns out it isn’t needed…so I’ll sell the one I bought to replace the one I was going to sell…

    But I thought you’d bought a new one because the old one wasn’t long enough?

    Due to the faff level…would need to be retreated through a few internal tubes and spacers and the rear brake.would need done as well for the spacer to be fixed.

    Yep, that’s how I fitted mine – although unsure why the brake needs to be touched?

    DickBarton
    Full Member

    Yup, I didn’t think it was long enough…turns out it is…but I ordered the longer one at same time…
    I’ll put it into the lbs and get them to fit it…the connectamajig is handy to have when it needs to be returned!

    Brake needs redone as the brake and seatpost hose go through a rubber grommet…actually it won’t…the new hose will get threaded through…obviously hadn’t put on my thinking head for that!

    Looking at the service manual, the barb is actually slightly bigger so the hoses can’t be swapped…by the looks of things.

    stuartlangwilson
    Free Member

    This works, unscrew the whole connectamajig from poppet cover, screw non connectamajig hose on, bleed, sorted. There is no room for a connectamajig on my meta SX.

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