Resin Bonded Driveways???

How tough are they?

Let me explain – Thinking of getting one done, but we ride motorbikes, which WILL be parked on the drive from time to time, for loading up, washing etc. Now, motorbike side and centre stands are small, and a lot of weight goes through them, and I have, more than once, had the stand sink into asphalt surfaces when parked up.

So a bonded drive is no good to me AT ALL if I can’t park a bike on it.

What says the STW hive mind?? 🙂

you will need planning permission if you use a non-porous surface.

could you not use some sort of cup under the stand on the occasions you park a bike on the drive?

I have no idea of the answer to your actual question 🙂

I had a resin bound driveway done last year (slightly different) and the installer did mention something about avoiding using a jack straight onto the surface if doing car repairs but suggested putting a section of plank beneath it first (not feasible with a motorbike stand I suppose). I’ll see if I can find a copy of the “aftercare” leaflet and see if there’s any mention. I’ve had extension ladders straight onto it a few times without issues though.

Depends what type you pick and if the sub-base is correct.

The shallow capping type should be fine if laid over concrete.

The deeper ‘proper’ stlye should also be fine but if it we’re a very hot and sunny day I’d use a piece of ply or similar under the foot just to be careful.

Of course both types should be laid with due care and attention.

Planning is not required if you’re overlaying an existing non-porous surface.

Hmmm mk1fan – the planning law[/url] applies to any paving over 5m2 whether it’s new or replacement. BUT the application of the law is down to the individual planning dpt and some are being stricter than others on replacements.

Other than that the advice above seems pretty good. Talk to a couple of suppliers about what aggregate to use as I reckon that could make a difference to how it stands up to point loads.

Bregante, thanks, most helpful.

Umming and ahhing so far….

Would a small hole be repairable, if done by accident? I imagine so.

Purist, we’ve emailed a couple and can’t get a straight answer

we’ve emailed a couple and can’t get a straight answer

which probably tells you all you need to know?

Would it be possible to include a small hardstanding area within the driveway (concrete slabs or similar) which you could rest the bike stands on ? Or would that look completely naff ? 🙂

We had someone in to give us a cpd the other day. You can get porous versions but they did say there may be issues with point loads on hot days. Probably wouldn’t matter with the bike stands but seeing as my axle stands go into tarmac I would say this issue would apply to this surface too.

Or would that look completely naff ?

Probably.
🙂

………………..

No need for everyone to drone on about planning permission though, stick to the question please! 🙂

stick to the question please

*checks to see if PP is new here*

I can’t answer your question as I economised on my drive and went for loose aggregate but my research led me to believe it was pretty tough.

Do you mean resin bound or bonded though? One is aggregate mixed in resin and laid like a 20mm screed the other a layer of resin with aggregate spread over it in a much thinner coat. In either case I think the base you put it on will make a big difference to durability.

If you find somewhere selling at a good price please let me know.

there may be issues with point loads on hot days

Treat it as asphalt then. About as I thought. cheers. 🙂

(I’ve probably forgotten more about asphalt than the whole of STW combined, by the way. “Tarmac” (spit!) is a trade name, BTW. I work for Hanson, so it’s asphalt to me, much like someone who works for Dyson will do the vacuuming, not the ‘Hoovering’! 😉 )

Found it!

“care should be taken with any metal objects such as motorbike stands, gardening machinery, waste skips etc which could cause damage if dropped on, or dragged across the surface.

Always use a wooden plank under car jacks to spread the load”

Not exactly clear I’m afraid.

Do you mean resin bound or bonded though?

Yes, sorry, slip up on the technicalites there! The hand trowelled, bound type looks like a better bet to me. I can see scatter coating stuff wearing out a bit quick! 🙂

Bragante, thanks, that’s the best answer I’ve had so far. Looks like we may have to be careful at least.

Many thanks!

Does it mention repairs if it gets damaged?

“care should be taken with any metal objects such as motorbike stands, gardening machinery, waste skips etc which could cause damage if dropped on, or dragged across the surface.

Always use a wooden plank under car jacks to spread the load”

That will be the resin bound, no good for a motorcycle then. Not only will the stand gouge a hole in it you will probably find your bike has fallen over too.

I went for the resin bound. A word of warning, it is a little slippy in the wet. A couple of times I’ve ridden onto it at the end of a wet commute and as I turn onto the driveway the bloody things skidded straight from underneath me!!

Looks lovely though. Mine has flecks of silver granite chip pings in which really shine on a bright day. Had loads of people knocking at the door asking what it is and who did it for us.

Does it mention repairs if it gets damaged?

The bloke who did mine made it clear that repairs can be done relatively easily. In time, I intend to knock a wall down at the front of the garden and was worried about damage to the driveway. Neil who did mine (highly reccomended btw in the NW of England) said repairs were quite straight forward.

http://Www.decorativestonedriveways.co.uk

you will need planning permission if you use a non-porous surface.

My parents didn’t need it when they re-did their drive as it was previously concrete.

FWIW I’d just buy a couple of 6″ square, 3mm thick bits of steel plate and use that to spread the load, rather than change my drive material/options based on the occasional use. 😆