Pinnacle Arkose Three (jameso to the forum please)

I do, the one that Evans sold me is 146.5 in length. I can’t seem to find one on the website with a 125mm length.

Hi James, just popped you some mail about replacement freehub body on an arkose 4 2015. Could you help at all? Thanks!

td, seems Evans don’t stock them, sorry. Just checked.

cgr, just replied, will look them up.

What is the rear axle on the arkose? I’m thinking of getting one as a trailer puller, just found out an x12 axle conversion to make my mtb compatible with a Thule trailer is £60 😯

It’s a QR on all models Richard.

No worries James, thanks for checking. Maybe they should get some stock in. I’ve just managed to find one that will deliver tomorrow which is when I need it for.

I love the arkose, this is my second one now but the Evans team (not all of them I know) just don’t seem to have product knowledge when it comes to things like this, which could put future purchases of the brand at risk, which is a shame especially after the hard work your putting in.

TD, agreed on the axle, not sure why it’s not listed. Will point it out or just get axles on the next drop, will raise the rrp a bit though.
Product knowledge is a tricky one. A lot to keep up with to be fair. You’d see me looking blank if asked about Scott e mtbs or zwift compatibility trainers : ) On Pinnacle or Hoy product I’d hope we’re easily found for anything not answerable on the spot.

Jameso & others- whats the largest tyres I can fit with some mud clearance?

40C but that can get close up front with claggy mud.

Big thanks to Jameso, Pinnacle Bikes and Evans Gateshead for great customer service and support with my Arkose recently.

Looking forward to riding again this weekend.

Quick request if anyone can help.

Picked up a 2015 Arkose 2 back in April 2016. I’ve only put about 150 miles on it since.

When it went in for its 6 week service (after about 8 weeks due to crap weather and not being able to get out on it), they had to bleed the front brake as it was catching on the rotor.

Since then (again I’ve only been out a handful of times because of a foot injury so I’ve had to stick to my MTB), I’ve noticed that when I use the rear brake, there’s a horrendous shudder through the frame. It had been there before, but I’d put it down to the Kryptonite lock mount – however after a 20 miler without the lock, it’s clearly something else.

It’s worse when you use the front brake at the same time. It’s quite easy to lock and skid the rear wheel so there’s obviously enough bite there, but the judder is putting me off riding the bike.

It’s a shame because I stuck some cheap M353 hydraulics on my MTB and TBH they’re 10 times better then the brakes on this Arkose – I’d gone for the Arkose because I wanted hydraulics on a roadie/CX type bike.

Rang the Gateshead store and they advised to bring it in, but am I likely to be charged for it being looked at, given that it’s past it’s 6 week check period, or do they come with some sort of warranty?

Any pointers/help gratefully received.

Hard to diagnose remotely but the shop wouldn’t charge for simply having an initial look, beyond that it’ll depend on what the assesment is. Possibly some misalignment. Possibly contaminated pads or rotors, oil residue will make them howl and lose bite but other contaminants can have other effects. If there’s no noise from the brake only a vibration of sorts I’d start by looking at alignment and mounting in that area, checking over the hub, rotor and disc fixings.

Jameso – thank you for the reply. I’ll report back with how it goes.

There’s not a squeal and the only noise is the rumble/judder, the bike only gets used in the dry (the MTB is for rubbish weather duty). I’ve got some disk brake cleaner spray which I tried a few weeks ago but hasn’t made a difference – the brakes were bedded in properly as well. I wondered if it was something to do with the hub or spokes but that’s well beyond my technical ability – I fitted a 1×10 drivetrain and the shimano brakes to my MTB but that’s the max of my skills.

The QR is done up tight and the wheel seems to run freely without catching on the brake – I’m assuming the ticking is just the design of the hub?

Have put an order in for a Pinnacle balance bike for the bairn (in matching lime green of course) so I’m desperate for mine to be tip-top.

@bossworld – developed an almost identical issue on my hardtail recently, couldn’t sort it myself, put it in lbs and they spent 2 weeks on it – tried torching existing rotor + pads, new rotor, new pads, checking hub etc. Eventually issue was strangely resolved by greasing caliper mounting bolts – you could give that a try.

Cheers Andy will bear it in mind – I’m loathe to do too much to it myself seeing as it’s nearly new but will see what Evans Gateshead come back with.

Could be something about the rotor causing the pads to move, does the frequency of the rumble/judder change with speed, ie get less as you slow down? I’ve got a few brakes to run smoother by using a plain round rotor, so may be worth trying a different rear wheel with the same 160mm size shimano-compatible rotor to see if it changes anything? A mis-aligned caliper or frame mount may cause something similar if the pads + pistons aren’t aligned flat enough to the rotor.

It’s markedly worse when you’ve got the brake lever half pulled under normal braking. If you slam on, the rear will skid and doesn’t really rumble.

Was able to simulate it while moving the bike around the garden without my weight on it by half pulling on the lever. Similarly, if you’re on the bike stationery, put the rear brake say 75% on, when you push your weight forward, you get a clunk clunk clunk as the pads try to prevent the disc moving. I think it’s at that stage – wondering if possibly a sticky piston as you’d get on a car or as you say, not perfectly straight?

Haven’t got spares to be playing with (MTB is 26″) so was hopeful the shop can do that sort of thing. As above will report back, grateful for the advice and pointers. The front doesn’t exhibit the same issue, albeit the front brake isn’t anywhere near as sharp (i think this is normal for bikes)?

@bossworld anther quick at home check would be that the caliper bolts are all tight on the rear caliper.

I had a similar sounding issue on my MTB when i built the front of it back up late on Friday night after receiving the fork back from service. Bashed it all together and didn’t fully tighten the caliper bolts as the front wheel was coming of again, front brake felt horrific down the first decent on the Saturday morning.

If anyone fancies an Arkos 3 ’14 with 105 groupset in 54cm, please drop an email to cokie.stw@gmail.com

Does sound like a mis-alignment of pad and rotor to me but I’d get the shop to have a look and just explain what you’ve said here, shouldn’t be hard to resolve.

Took it in today, they were very helpful. Had a call a couple of hours later to say it was the pads were glazed, although having had a quick go tonight, there’s a lot more travel in the rear lever now so I’m guessing they’ve bled it slightly as well (fine by me).

My 2 year old had her heart set on the 14″ Pinnacle and wouldn’t leave it alone in the store but we’ve got the 12″ balance bike on order so hopefully come the weekend she’ll be able to match me in lime green.

Cheers folks.

I’ve just had a second incident where I’ve found my rear wheel loose at the end of a ride. By loose I mean the rear wheel wobbles slightly side to side. I was mentally blaming the external cam QR but I just read about the hanger recall, could that be the cause? I have a 2015 Arkose 4 with internal routing and the hanger says “BGRD-4”

Anyone got the singlespeed Arkose? Thinking that looks a super CTW buy; quite fancy a nice simple bike to blast round the lanes in the winter 🙂

Would it be any good for touring? Fancy cycling through France next year and to do it on a singlespeed has appeal….!!

I know it’s not Arkose specific but I’ll ask here anyway because it’s what came fitted to mine.

My bottom bracket has given up the ghost, it’s a FSA Mega Exo one. Do I have to but a FSA one back in or can I use the SLX one I have as a spare or maybe even the Hope one I have floating about? I’ve never dealt with FSA stuff before so it’s a it of mystery to me.

FSA Mega Exo cranks have a smaller axle size than Shimano, so you’ll need either another FSA BB or to change the cranks as well.

Looking to fit a set of SKS Chromoplastics to my Arkose SS for winter.

Can anyone advise if the 45mm or wider 50mm guards will fit? I’d like to keep using the 40C WTB Nano Tyre too.

Cheers!

50 imo

I’ve got p45, and 40mm vittoria hyper tyres only *just* fit under.

Just about to fit P45s and vittoria hyper 35mm’s and hoping they’ll play nicely together. As above, I reckon you’ll need 50’s if you want to keep the 40mm nano’s on.

Glad this thread popped up again – I got one (an XL 4) on BTW when they dropped in price in August. Awesome bike. Manages well on the roads with 28mm tyres, and the stock small block 8’s are fine off road (although I might well try some of the larger nano’s).

Here’s a pick on day 2 of a recent Peaks bikepacking trip on which it performed flawlessly;

Bugger! Got impatient and ordered 45s.

Had a measure and thought 50mm might be pushing it on the front!

Fingers crossed!!

So….Nano 40C and P45’s do fit,but its tighter than tight!

Hi all,

Few months ago got an Arkose three 2016 model and its became my commuting machine. Picked up some p45 chromoplastic guards and while I’ve got the back one fitted okay the front bolt isn’t long enough to do through the fork.

Any recommendations for bolt size to use? I’m a bit rubbish with this stuff.

Long shot but I don’t suppose anyone knows what shade the paint is on a 2015 Arkose 1? It’s a metallic silvery colour and after an unshceduled lie down in the road I need some touch up paint.

Thanks

It’s a Taiwan-produced paint code sorry so available matches are never exact but car or motorbike touch-up paints can get pretty close.

Somi found the thread to ask peoples opinions of the 2015 SS pictured up there. Ive decided SSCX is a good training / difference to my collection and ive found one on offer. Is a 2015 bike worth £600?

I might enter the odd CX race more for training / sharpening for results, it is capable?

Its competing with a 699 carbon forked TCX SLR with 105 – £100 for the drive train seems a bargain but, albeit with mechanical disks

shortbread – Member
Hi all,
Few months ago got an Arkose three 2016 model and its became my commuting machine. Picked up some p45 chromoplastic guards and while I’ve got the back one fitted okay the front bolt isn’t long enough to do through the fork.
Any recommendations for bolt size to use? I’m a bit rubbish with this stuff.

Just get urself on eBay and order some longer bolts ,loads of places do them for pennies

Had just this issue the other day. Go to Robert Dyas or similar and get a 70mm M5 bolt (or pack of 5, however they come), then cut it down to size. Done. Cheap and easy, no waiting for post.

EDIT – any DIY-ish store will do

Had just this issue the other day. Go to Robert Dyas or similar and get a 70mm M5 bolt (or pack of 5, however they come), then cut it down to size. Done. Cheap and easy, no waiting for post.

EDIT – any DIY-ish store will do

I bought a length of stainless M5 studding, and a pack of stainless dome nuts – cut a piece of studding the right length and finish off with a nut on either end. looks pretty neat.

All items available from either Toolstation or Screwfix – I can’t remember which.

Good idea…though probably cheaper and easier to just buy the bolt though, as you can use the nuts that come with the mudgaurds, one cut and you’re done.

Somi found the thread to ask peoples opinions of the 2015 SS pictured up there. Ive decided SSCX is a good training / difference to my collection and ive found one on offer. Is a 2015 bike worth £600?

I might enter the odd CX race more for training / sharpening for results, it is capable?

Its competing with a 699 carbon forked TCX SLR with 105 – £100 for the drive train seems a bargain but, albeit with mechanical disks

I’m sure the bike is very capable, but it does sound like quite a lot. The new bikes will be 2017 spec, so that’s 2 years old. How much were they going for? My Arkose 2 (1×10, hydro brakes) was £750 (down from £850) in early 2015, I’d guess it would be less than £600 now…

Good idea…though probably cheaper and easier to just buy the bolt though, as you can use the nuts that come with the mudgaurds, one cut and you’re done.

Agreed – I’d actually bought the studding for another job (fitting the same mudguards on my previous bike – which needed a stand-off to clear the brake calliper) so just used what I had.