New Titus Ti frames! 3xB!

Eagerly awaiting for the Big Dog to be unleashed just noticed two new titanium Titus frames on the On-One/Planet-X page:

https://www.on-one.co.uk/i/q/FRTITMUTSU/titus-mutsu-titanium-hardtail-expedition-frame

https://www.on-one.co.uk/i/q/FRTIZEST/titus-zestar-titanium-hardtail-downcountry-frame

@Brant, do you have the geometry charts to share? A rough ETA would be great as well for the impatient gits.

The silhouette of the zestar is indentical to the Sonder Signal Ti.

…and the Mutsu is the same profile as the Sonder Broken Road!

The silhouette of the zestar is indentical to the Sonder Signal Ti.

As are the seatpost measurements and the other spec’s mentioned.

Curious. I thought the Sonder bikes were their own design. This makes me think otherwise

I thought Brant had some input to (at least some of) the Sonder designs.

I thought so too at some stage, but at least the Signal was all about Neil, Neil, Neil wanted this and that from the frame.

Looks like they’ve nicked the images as the BB is cropped off the Broken Road image as well.

There’s a third one that’s the Camino Ti graphic as well.

Interested in this. I’m test riding a broken road next weekend. Price is half of the Sonder!!

That goldrush is tempting

Brant! Brant! Brant!

Is this for real? “Trust Titus to open up options that other brands leave behind” and the picture is literally a product that another brand totally hasn’t left behind…

Price on the Broken Road copy has gone up £200 in a couple of hours!!!. I registered interest and notification by email and it was £599.99. I wonder if they have had loads of interest and hiked up the price? Not such good value now. Think i’ll be shopping at Alpkit anyway. Customer service has to count for something.

What does that max tyre size mean? 48mm seems quite narrow for a mountain bike…

Named after different apple varieties. Some Apple employees now work for Sonder keyboards. #conspiracytheory

Yeah they’ve all gone up.

Blimey, well spotted OP

Just comparing geometry on the small/medium with the Broken Road & Signal Ti and every number is pretty much the same… slight difference in wheelbase & stack on BR copy and slightly more differences albeit negligible on Signal copy. Its uncanny!

I see Signal Ti has gone up to same price as BR too at £1250 when use to be £1k iirc

Strange thing is that although they maybe the same frames, its fun how I’m not sure id be prepared to pay £800 for the Titus where as I’ve always thought £1-1.25k seemed pretty decent value for the Sonder frames!

rear dropouts are completely different between the two frame designs- altho according to the on one site there is a 20mm range in adjustment.The sonder is a more typical adjustable dropout system than what On One shows. I would use it as an SS- and the 300$ less for the Titus is very tempting…

I can confirm the dropouts on the Mutsu ( Broken Road ) are different. They kind of pivot but still give 20mm of rear wheel adjustment. Loads of clearance with 650b 2.8 tyres and same with 29er 2.4 Forekasters. Ignore my post further up- after saying I was going for a broken road the Mutsu was too tempting and I’ve built it up to my spec. Singlespeed at the mo but the dropout bolts are made of cheese and I’m worried about giving them too much torque so I keep pulling the back wheel off centre. Ordered some proper bolts and knocked up a couple of chain tugs, all good now. My first 650b and first plus tyres. Grip is brilliant but mud is a bit scary!!.

@teamslug: Wouldn’t mind a pic or two to swing me towards the purchase! Comparing the geometry to the Longitude Mk1 which I absolutely loved and the Mutsu seems to be soo close that I’m not sure why I haven’t bought one yet…

Just building up my Mutsu, 12speed XT and a 100mm SID. @teamslug, do you have a link to those dropout bolts, as like you think they are a bit cheddar.

https://www.westfieldfasteners.co.uk/BO_ScrewBolt_Unbrako_SHBtn_M8.html

16mm length. Fast delivery.

@teamslug, @boardmanfs18 – how are you getting on with your Mutsus? Currently considering one as a rigid build.

Are there mounts to easily fit a full length mudguard on the back? I know there’s rack mounts at dropout and at top of seat stays, but no mention of bolt holes at seatstay bridge or chainstay bridge/BB area.

Bike is really good. I think I’ve got it sorted to my liking.Just put a Rekon+ 2.8 on front to replace ranger 2.8. Loads better in mud with 10psi.I can confirm it has bolt holes on seat stay bridge and on chain stay bridge too. Rear wheel slip I was getting single speed has been rectified with a couple of chain tugs.

Thanks for the info re mudguard fixings @teamslug. If I go for it, I’ll be making full use of those.

What chaintugs did you manage to fit? Total lack of detailed photos of the frame so hard to figure out what could be used. Not saying I’ll SS mine, but current bike had horizontal dropouts and I had slippage using gears before fitting chaintugs.

Teamslug looking at one of these to run SS as well, but are the dropouts for SS ie sliding ?

Jonny RM. They aren’t conventional horizontal ones. They are pivotal but still have 20mm if forward/rear movement. Only problem I’ve had is that the rear wheel pulls sideways. I’ve made some chaintugs and its fine now. From memory I don’t think you are too far from me. PM me if you want to come and have a look.

Freshly built at the weekend and straight into daily use. Only issue during the build was non-existant chainstay clearance for the 36t-46t rings on non-Boost cranks I planned to fit, so I’ve changed to 1x setup. Needs a longer rear hose as Mutsu wheelbase is 15cm greater than my previous bike, so current routing is less than optimal.

Set up: 490mm a-c Exotic carbon fork, 700×47 on Hope Five20 wheelset, 180/160 SLX discs and 1×10. Currently using a 38t in outer ring position and have a 42-11t HG500 cassette ordered. SKS Edge mudguards with a bodged mounting solution on the fork. 100mm stem might swap for shorter but it’s what I had spare, and still playing around with stack height.

First ride impressions. Lack of front mech and more rigid mudguards meant zero (complete lack of) rattle even on the roughest local trails I use regularly. Flap required on front mudguard. Generally more confidence-inspiring descending / less twitchy. But could be all New Bike Feeling so will reserve further judgement for the moment.

Teamslug, what did you create as a chain tug? I’m running mine with gears and still having similar issues with it slipping and the wheel then being at an angle within the frame.

I used some Aluminium angle I got from work. Cut it down drilled and threaded a hole in back for a bolt. Send me a pm and I’ll send you a couple of pics and sizes etc.

@teamslug, @boardmanfs18 – hoping you can advise/assist with your Mutsus. What chainset/chainring are you using? I’ve started having issues with the chain dropping off the inside of the chainring when in the top 3 cogs of the cassette. I suspect my chainline is less than ideal and unsure what setup to aim for.

I’m currently using a non-Boost SLX triple chainset with a 38t FSA DH chainring mounted in the outer ring position. Rear hub Hope Pro4 non-Boost with the Hope Boost adaptor kit. There’s very little chainstay clearance for a decent-sized ring in the middle ring position using my current chainset. Ideally I’d like at least a 36t chainring but 38t or 40t would be better, but I think even with chainring in current mounted position it’d be tight clearance for a 40t.

I’m planning to play around with ring positions later but if anyone has any suggestions/tips then I’d be grateful to hear them.

I’m using an XT 12 speed chainset, the slightly wider one, 32t absolute black chainring and a Shimano slx boost microspline rear hub.

I’m running a XT boost crank 32T with a 11-46 chainset.

It sounds like your chainline with the ring positioned on the outer setting is causing the issues, assuming limit screws/cable tension are all fine and nothing is particularly worn.

Can I ask why you want such a large front ring? Have you gone for a more gravel set up and want the extra speed?

Thanks.

I’m going to pilfer Boost bits temporarily off my FSer later and see if I can improve things.

I’m singlespeed so not sure how much help I can be. Sram GX Boost crank with zero offset chainring ( One up Switch 30 tooth oval) but ran it with 32 tooth round too. I tried it with a 6mm offset 28 tooth chainring and it caught the chainstay. Singlespeed rear is Superstar V6 boost hub with shimano freehub with singlespeed cog around the middle of the freehub. Going to be fitting 11 speed xt soon I think but still 1 x on front.

I’m running a XT boost crank 32T with a 11-46 chainset.

It sounds like your chainline with the ring positioned on the outer setting is causing the issues, assuming limit screws/cable tension are all fine and nothing is particularly worn.

Can I ask why you want such a large front ring? Have you gone for a more gravel set up and want the extra speed?

Yep, more or a gravel setup that I use for commuting. Ideally I don’t want to lose my 38t-11t gear but if I need to drop to a 36t chainring then I will.

I suspect I’d benefit from swapping to a proper Boost hub which would move the cassette outboard by 3mm and improve things – the chainline at the moment is visibly stretching over when in the largest cogs on the cassette. I built up the frame using what I had and it’s proving to be less than ideal components.

I’m still getting my head around chainset chainlines. I’m unsure what max chainring size would fit if I swapped to a boost crank? Able to offer any thoughts? @straightliner, @Boardmanfs18

Sorry, I’m away from my bike until Friday. Is there any info on maximum chainring sizes on the internet for the Broken Road?

Sorry, I’m away from my bike until Friday. Is there any info on maximum chainring sizes on the internet for the Broken Road?

Apologies, missed your reply. I tried that approach too but no joy.

I’ve resolved mine now with boost cranks (11-sp SLX, 53.4mmm chainline) and squeezed a 36t n/w chainring on. It’s tight but clearance is find – chainring has an offset that pushes it inboard and I suspect a different chainring that sits closer to the crank spider may create clearance for a 38t. The current chainline works well across the whole cassette though so might just live with the 36t.