[Closed] Neverlasting Bottom Brackets

The shimano BB will last atleast a year if regreased every so often and installed properly.

mine never has, I am trying acros ones at the moment.

>Hit The North Solo

Warranty is null and void after 12hrs in that much muck.

I used to re-grease Shimano's BB's and did get 10-12 months out of them. However, I was hoping that the Hope's would be the silver bullet to the External BB sealing problem.

Its not just the re-placement cost of the BB that's the issue, don't think that regular removal and re-fitting of the cups is 'kind' to the shell threads.

Bought a Ti456 before XMAS , and of course I want to give it the best TLC possible 🙂

[b]Anyone tried re-conditioning the BB as per instruction on following website?[/b]

[url] http://www.smbbearings.com/BB_BRGS.htm [/url]

Or what are the best external BB's on the market?

Hit The North solo pretty much destroyed every bit of my bike, too, so I wouldn't just blame the BB... 🙂

Take the bb bracket apart wash out the s**t grease that comes in the bearings and re grease with decent water proof stuff.
Its not in the manufacturers interest to make stuff that lasts me thinks.

Its not in the manufacturers interest to make stuff that lasts me thinks.

[i]
this attitude amazes. what on earth make you think that a rep for longevity is somehow harmful for a brand? [/i]

Longevity means people buy less often. The only way I can see to fix the problem is a bigger BB shell where the bearings are pressed inboard and substantial labyrinth seals - much like hope rear hubs.

[i]Longevity means people buy less often.[/i]

No longevity to a product means people won't buy [b]again[/b]

Have you been traversing streams, large puddles etc where you're BB is submerged?

rockthreegozy, no......

longevity means people wont buy the same product again for a [b]long time[/b] but because it lasted so long, they [b]will[/b] buy that product...

[i]Have you been traversing streams, large puddles etc where you're BB is submerged?[/i]

No streams, just large muddy puddles, or just the largest muddy puddle ever aka 'Hit the North'

Suppose can't really blame Hope , the external BB concept wasn't their invention, more the big whip hand of Shimano pushing the industry towards their own standards even if they are flawed. ( Just like Micro$oft with Vista!)

However, I do remember the good old UNC72 Square taper BB lasting for a couple of years even with riding through streams & puddles.

Older designs are often superior, maybe Shimano will bring back an internal BB design in next years XTR groupset. Whatever happened to OctaLink? 🙂

On my Epic I use the RaceFace X-Type DH external bottom bracket (mainly because the numpty I bought the frame from had stripped some of the shell thread!). It has a longer thread and I am convinced it is alot stronger. I can get away with about 6 months mixed riding with it (say 2-3000 miles).

The only way I can see to fix the problem is a bigger BB shell

A bit like BB30 then [url= http://www.bb30standard.com/ ]http://www.bb30standard.com/[/url]

[i]'Older designs are often superior, maybe Shimano will bring back an internal BB design in next years XTR groupset. Whatever happened to OctaLink?'[/i]

I used to kill XTR Octalink B/Bs far quicker than HT2, I don't know what you people do to them! They won't revert though, XT HT2 weighs less than XTR M952 and an Octalink B/B, without a doubt it's backwards progression! The XTR B/Bs were also £50, with no other choices. Methinks there's a degree of viewing things through rose tinted spectacles, give me HT2 anyday...

Although I've now got BB30, which based on a few friends bikes, is no better than ISIS!

Water sitting in the BB shell?

Its not just the re-placement cost of the BB that's the issue, don't think that regular removal and re-fitting of the cups is 'kind' to the shell threads.

While not ideal it's quite possible just to push more grease in without removing the cups.

Truvativ Isoflow BB on my bike for the last 2.5 years and it's still super smooth. 😉

I also have no idea what people do to HTII BBs to kill them so quickly. Maybe they aren't installed correctly?

All my HTII BBs (including a SS one) have lasted fine. Only had to replace one so far, after 2.5 (damn wet) years.

The only BB I've ever had problems with was an isis one, which lasted 10 dry rides.

Phil Woods bearing replacements from Sideways cycles, as there no need for ceramic marketing hype.

18months +

A bit like BB30 then http://www.bb30standard.com/

As far as I can tell that doesn't provide any extra sealing over the current system. The bearings need to be mounted well inboard with a substantial seal covering them. The bearings themselves don't need to be any bigger than current HTII.

UN52 square taper in my hardtail

done 7 years so far

that's progress for you

.... except the crank rounded off on the last square taper I had (and I'm not fat).

I thought you could replace the bearings separately on the Hope BB at a much cheaper cost than the whole unit itself.

Nobody tried the Chris King yet?

I'll let you know if it lasts longer than 6 months

What I like about Shimano BB's is that they die consistently. I could set my clock by the old UN72's starting to seize up at the 12 month old point. Sure you could carry on riding them and grind them to death for a good deal longer, but I chose not to.

I reckon non-drive side HT2 bearings last about the same length of time, but fail pretty terminally at that point and seize solid. Needless to say I have plenty of drive side cups that are still fine!

I've tried an Acros ceramic BB and they're good and last well. I've got a SS Hope BB on my Five now and bought it specifically because the bearings are serviceable. I hate the idea of disposable components so I'm hoping the Hope unit will be good long term solution.

As well as sealing and the weather conditions, the pedalling style and power of the rider also has an impact on bearing life don't forget.

My Zerk grease ported HT II BB has been been used twice a week on average all through the winter, and still smooooooth. It was already a well used (9 months old) one before the Zerk conversion.

[IMG] [/IMG]

the pedalling style and power of the rider also has an impact on bearing life don't forget.

I think they fail well before that becomes a factor at all. Water ingress is what kills them, not bearing wear.

My Zerk grease ported HT II BB has been been used twice a week on average all through the winter, and still smooooooth.

My standard XTR has been used much more than that without the slightest problem or faffing.

[i]jimmer himself - Member
What I like about Shimano BB's is that they die consistently. I could set my clock by the old UN72's starting to seize up at the 12 month old point. Sure you could carry on riding them and grind them to death for a good deal longer, but I chose not to.

I reckon non-drive side HT2 bearings last about the same length of time, but fail pretty terminally at that point and seize solid. Needless to say I have plenty of drive side cups that are still fine!

I've tried an Acros ceramic BB and they're good and last well. I've got a SS Hope BB on my Five now and bought it specifically because the bearings are serviceable. I hate the idea of disposable components so I'm hoping the Hope unit will be good long term solution.

As well as sealing and the weather conditions, the pedalling style and power of the rider also has an impact on bearing life don't forget.
[/i]

Why don't you put the bearings from the left-over drive side cups into a couple of the non-drive side cups and have fully functional BBs again!

I have one side superstar and one side shimano rescued from knackered HTIIs. The inner sleeve doesn't fit too well but i just packed it with grease...can't be any worse than before.

I got two months (summer) from a factory fitted shimano and almost a year from a superstar (including Hit the north). It's never both bearings that go just one side...different each time.

strange, I was thinking yesterday how well my Hope SS BB was lasting and how pleased I was with it. Shiman0 and RF BBs failed after 2-3 months but my Hope has been on for over a year now and riden heaps in all conditions, its on my winter hak. I cleaned it out the other day. Not that there was much to clean out they were very shiney. I squidged more grease into the bearings so I'm happy they'll be there another year.

Anyone got any idea where all the crapo actually gets in from. IS it 'creeping' up the axel, or being forced by some crazy reverse centrifugal force in through the seals . My most recent RF x type BB lasted maybe 5 months and about 20 rides. Its now pinging and clacking away on power the pedals, although it runs smoothly.
Might try some neoprene glue ( blackwitch ) on the exposed surfaces on the next one. Was going to bite the bullet and go with a Hope SS one, but if they fail they are rebuildable apparently, then try to get some high end bearings fitted.

"I thought you could replace the bearings separately on the Hope BB at a much cheaper cost than the whole unit itself."

Cheapest single offical 'Hope Bearing' I saw for sale was £19!

Plus, you I reckon you have to remove the cup from the frame and drift them out. Not really that serviceable compared with swapping FSA XL Headset bearings.

Really do like the look of that 'Zerk grease ported HT II BB' ! Reminds me of the WTB grease guard headset.

Fivespot; Where did you get it done and how much?

used various ones with ltd success untill i tried an across,still super smooth & yes shelling out £90.00 for a bb is steep it is still buttery smooth 6 mths in & looking good to triple that time.

Anyone tried the Chris King ones?

http://www.evanscycles.com/products/chris-king/external-type-bottom-bracket-ec017626

singletrackmind:- after stripping 5 HT2 BB's over the last 6 months (not mine), all had failed on the none drive side bearing. All due to the ingres of water, which quickly rusts the bearing track and balls overnight. Then when next used, if it does turn, it will be grinding its way round with rusty pitted balls and bearing surface.

My guess is that the radius on the back of the crank arm helps to channel the water directly into the seal area of the bearing. The drive side however, gets a lot more protection from the spinning sprockets, which will help deflect any muck and water away from said bearing.

gunthunter:- I did it myself. Got the idea from when I had my 5spot, and just happen to have kept the grease gun after selling it. The grease ports are from some old spherical bearings. To get the grease ports where I wanted them, I had to mark the BB cups when they were in the frame, so as they would return to the same spot when refitted. Not expensive, but a bit fiddly.

Jimmer,

The Acros BB's are fully user serviceable. The manual that comes with the BB explains how to strip, clean & re-grease their BB's & Headsets.

J

Is being serviceable not a step backwards from the sealed fit and forget cartridge units?

People seem to be accepting they're 'serviceable' as a mitigating excuse for the inherently poor design. Just [b]another[/b] thing to have to service on your bike. Some people must spend more time 'servicing' than riding 😉

Makes you wonder wtf they don't design the non drive side crank arm to shield the cup a bit more! You'd think these shimano guys would have heard of labyrinth seals etc.

Cheeky thread resurrection!

Fivespot- are you still using the BB above with homemade greaseports? If so, how has it lasted?

fivespot

genius! i think that will be my next mod.

I'm just amazed at the number of folk who seem to rattle through BB's.

Had XT BB on mine for at least 15 months now with no issues and still running smooth.
I understand that people often fit them with way too much preload on the bearing and that makes them die very quickly.

Meh at 20 quid for XTR who cares.

My XTR (970) BB is still going strong after nearly 2 years. Oddly, my SRAM GXP cups from my rival chainset is still play free after 2 winters of commuting! (only thing from the groupset that isn't dead tbh).

Had mixed experiences from Hope BB's and would probably only stuff a King in if I was to buy a flashy after-market BB (purely based on other people's experiences might I add).

retr83.......I sold the Hustler frame last year with the grease port BB still fitted and going strong. I have done the same mod to my current Orange 5 & 160, with the exception of fitting 2.5mm grub screws on the 160 instead of the Zerk ports. This was due to the BB shell wall thickness fouling the Zerk port when tightened fully.

I think there is a bit of a misconception about why the none drive side bearing usually wears out 1st. Some folks recon its to do with the preload being on that side. The preload nut pulls the drive side arm as much as it pushes on the none driveside arm, SO the bearing preload should be equal. The main difference between the two sides is the protection the driveside bearing gets from crap thrown up by the front wheel, ie. the chain and sprockets etc. The none driveside arm has a gap at the back that lets the crap in.

If you are going to the trouble of splitting your HT II BB to regrease, take extra care of the inner surface of the plastic top hat insert that the outer seal runs against, and the seal itself. SEALS need lubricating as well as bearings. A dry seal will wear quicker and let crap in to destroy the bearing.

Fivespot - nice mod 8) Where did you get the little zerk fittings from... or is that a problem and why you went for little grup screws this time?

Those external BBs are pants what you want is one of them old-school HT1 BBs or even better a square taper. I remember when we had 130mm stems and this was all just fields...

messiah... I got the grease ports from rod end bearings that were U/S (nobody had bothered grease them). I only used the 2.5mm grub screws because the larger protruding grease ports would foul the BB face on my Alpine 160 due to it having a thicker wall (bigger dia. outer) than some other BB shells.

You can buy small packs of Zerk ports for Turner bikes, Try the importers 😉

Cheers fivespot!

joolsburger - Member
Meh at 20 quid for XTR who cares.

£20 for bb, £20 for chain, £40 for a set of chain rings, £20 for cassette, £20 for wheel bearings. Adds up + I'm a pov.

I have put a lizardskins headset protector around the non-drive beaaring housing to stop the shit getting in as it is always this side of my Shimano BBs that die. The neoprene flexes quite well with the arm to maintain a shield as it rotates.
I take it off to dry after a wet ride or when I wash the bike.

Sorry to poo-poo the grease port idea a bit but squeezing more grease in will not neccessarilly squeeze contaminated grease out, I would have thought.

imp999 - Member
...Sorry to poo-poo the grease port idea a bit but squeezing more grease in will not neccessarilly squeeze contaminated grease out, I would have thought.

If you squeeze more in when it's new and displace as much of the air as possible, then when it is cooled down rapidly from hot, it won't cause a low pressure in the bearing which then sucks in whatever is adjacent - usually the moisture which has caused the rapid cooling.

(Hot being a relative term in this country 🙂 )

Anyone tried the superstar superHD ht2 bb?

My shimano one hasn't totally given up yet, but after a hard winter and a bit of neglect my driveside bearing is developing a bit of play now... The superstar one with the removable bearings seem like a good idea to me. Looks like you can remove the bearings without removing the cups from the frame too, so that cuts down in lots of hassle. I can't seem to see replaceable bearings separately listed on their site, but it has a 5 year warranty anyway, which should cover most problems!

Might give it a shot once my shimano one finally gives up.