Is actually possible to get a tyre on ZTR Crest rim?

I’ve never ran tubeless before so I’ve just ordered a pair of UST Rocket Rons to go on

So here’s the thing (& it’s not clear from the marketing) – the point of Crests is they are designed for running ‘ghetto tubeless’, ie a regular tyre with Stan’s tape set up as tubeless, NOT UST tyres which will come up damn tight. Crest is not a UST rim I believe.

I’ve done 2 rooty singletracky XCish rides on my RoRos, they’re fast as a very fast thing (lightest front wheel I’ve ever had) and have held up fine.

oops double post

Have you sorted these tyres yet?

I put 4 new tyres on 4 wheels last night (2x Crest, 2xFlow, Nevegals). The tyres almost fell on. Not a lever in site. My kittens could have done it.

As for pulling on a tyre to stretch the bead… lol…no chance!!
If the bead could stretch like that, a tyre would never stay on once inflated!!

Whereabouts are you?
I want to have a laugh help you out with this.

I want to have a laugh help you out with this

Can I come as well?

My kittens could have done it.

😀

Same here with my Crests – maybe we’ve got some bad ass kittens tho!

The secret is in the tyres! 😉

Had the same trouble with brand new Dirty Dans.

Best way is to use the technique recommended by Stans. Ensure the tyre sits in the middle of the rim channel, start opposite the valve and work your way around using leavers. Never had to use soapy water but still not easy!

There is talk on some forums of 2012 Schwalbe tyres being not suitable for ZTR rims.

I actually managed to get my Rocket Rons onto 29er Crests without tyre levers last weekend (though they are *really* tight)

As above, start opposite the valve and work your way around. When you get to the valve it will look impossible – massive edge of tyre cutting across the rim. Go back to the bottom and squash the bead into the centre channel again, then proceed back around towards the valve squashing it into the centre channel at 6″ intervals. As you get around to the valve, you’ll find you’ve freed up a tiny bit more tyre. Keep doing this 4 or 5 times and you’ll eventually find that with a few judicious expletives, you can just about squeeze the bead over the rim with your thumbs.

Another good tip I read is wear marigolds – you’ll have a much better grip on the tyre without applying any force.

Now is a good time to read up on the profanisaurus, that way you’ll be prepared with some choice swearing at the crucial moment… Good luck!

Schwalbe, maxxis and kenda are dead easy on crests in my experience, though the new 2012 schwalbe ones did need a tyre lever for the last bit.

Tyre update – Its on!

2 “men” and 3 metal tyres levers and a few rim scratches and it went on. Tubed and needed 60psi to get to seat properly.

If i ever have a puncture i will have to learn how to wheelie pretty quickly to get home

For those that mocked, i had Jeff Capes round and he couldn’t do it so went home dragging his Lorry by his teeth, ripping telephone books in anger as he went* so it obviously wasn’t me being soft

So if you see a grown man with baby arms at the side of the trail swearing at a tyre – give me a hand will you

* this may not be entirely true

Jon, you will get a flat, you know it.

Bite the bullet and get rid of the tubes. You started this journey so finish it.

mattjg – Member

Jon, you will get a flat, you know it.

Bite the bullet and get rid of the tubes. You started this journey so finish it.

Do you need a compressor to seat/inflate tubeless setups on stans rims or is a track pump enough?

@mattjg – yup i know, didn’t have enough sealant to go tubeless at the time. I may end up cutting the spokes and throwing the rim away with the tyre on it when i do get a puncture!

’83: I got Mud X and Rocket Rons on with a track pump. Do the soapy water trick, it helps make the first initial seal so it holds a bit while you inflate with the pump.

You’ll jump when the beads twang into place, I do every time.

Jon: when I first got mine I tried tubed, I eventually got a Maxxis ADVantage on (after a big struggle) but had to cut it off. I’d never in a zillion years have been able to do a trailside puncture repair.

Just finished building some crests into wheels and put some rocket rons on tonight. Tightest f******* bead/rim bitchfight Ive ever taken part in, but did manage it without using levers – and I havent used levers on a wheel for 15 years.

Just doing the overnight with a tube thing to get the yellow tape to seal nicely, then it’s having a stab at some homebrew latex in there tomorrow. Not looking forward to getting the tyre off again 😯

S’wierd how some folk are having problems getting tyres onto the Crest rims, i got my wheels last week from JRA, Hope pro2 28h /28h crests and fitted a 2.4 conti mountain king and 2.4 conti x king with no probs at all – in fact i’d go as far as saying it was one of the easiest i’ve ever done, slid on without the need for tyre levers, even managed to pop them off the bead after initial inflation to fill with stans sealent without use of tyre levers – they’re must be a slight variation in rim or tyre sizes if folk are having such a problem

yep had this discussion before, think must be batch of oversized crest rims, i have one (32h, 26″, Hope Hoops from Wiggle this summer), tightest rim ever. could be a problem if needing to change tube when out, which i’ve never done, went tubeless from new still on same tyre (Minion DHF 60a kevlar, which answers another thread tonight.). this wheel needs to go back to hope anyway, bearings don’t work.

Some USTs can be difficult but have managed NNs, RRS, High rollers and Advantage without too many issues

yer but some of us have Crests that are tighter than any other rim on market afaik. tighter than my Flow, but come to think of it, the Crest has never burped, the Flow has a couple of times. hmmm maybe i’ll hang on to this Crest.

Maybe it’s a rogue batch of 650b rims that stans made and didn’t tell anyone…

Maybe it’s a rogue batch of 650b rims that stans made and didn’t tell anyone…

Well if they were then Ive also got a rogue batch of 650b sized 29er tyres too then or theyd be flopping about like a baggy pair of trousers 😉

I’m looking forward to tomorrow as Winstanleys have just dispatched a set of Hope Pro 2/Crests29’s to me 🙂

I had a LOAD of issues with my last wheels compared to my Giants… but then found out from this and other threads it’s likely to be more my fault than the actual wheel/tyre combo…

I used to get same problem with Schwalbe MP’s on road commuting wheels. This “garden shed” video from a chap at Spa cycles gives some useful tips. Road tyre with a wire bead but the principles are the same.

Tyre fitting video

Don’t ride a tyre that you couldn’t get off and on with cold fingers on a dark wet night out on a trail somewhere.

my current crests are the tightest rims i’ve had in 12 years of riding. massive PITA to get tyres on, even with levers.

all the smarmy gits will say that it’s technique, and that all you need is thumbs, but having never had an issue before, and generally only ever using thumbs, these are flipping tight – tighter than any road rims i’ve used.

just taken the Rons off my crests to get the inner out and it was surprisingly much easier than when putting them on. Of course, now I have to fit a valve and squirt some latex in there and then try and reseat the tyre all without making a creamy mess…

maybe they’re supposed to be that tight then? if you’ve got different versions from different places all like this.
weird thing is the bead socket looks like it could never work (way shallower than in the Flow), but so far, no burps for me 🙂

agree with comment about not riding tyres you can’t change, but what’s easy on this rim? Minion is not really tight. a tight tyre probably wouldn’t go on at all.

agree with comment about not riding tyres you can’t change, but what’s easy on this rim?

Tubeless I’ve happily used the RoRos you can get from OnOne – the ones that say ‘not recommended for tubeless’ (they are pretty thin, I wouldn’t use them somewhere rocky, but I live darnsarf) – and Mud X.

I’ve had a couple of tyre slits on the RoRos that I couldn’t patch, and it only takes 2 minutes to get a tube in.

What I think often happens is that people first try with a tube and the regular rim tape (not the plastic Stan’s tube, which is very thin), and that’s when they have problems.

Crests are designed for running ghetto tubeless.

just taken the Rons off my crests to get the inner out and it was surprisingly much easier than when putting them on. Of course, now I have to fit a valve and squirt some latex in there and then try and reseat the tyre all without making a creamy mess…

When you take the tube out, leave one side of the tyre seated in place, then you only have 1 side to deal with.

Whack your valve in, put the tyre back on, make sure the tyre bead is settled in the gutter, but some soapy water around the beading both sides, and whack some air in with a track pump. Take the valve core out if you need to get air in quicker.

They will go up. Compressor not needed.

I usually get them seated first, then put some gunk in via the valve core and reinflate.

Give the fluid a good slosh all about. First time on a new tyre you’ll likely miss a leak or 2, leave it for a couple of hours then go back to it, slosh again, and you’ll be OK.

It’s easier than it sounds, I’ve done it several times.

ghetto is when you have a half 20″ tube around inside of rim, overlapping tyre. i have done this on Mavic rims. no way would i get any tyre on crest like that, it’s hard enough getting over the bare rim. so i don’t think crest is made for ghetto, no! also i ride with flints so RoRo and Schwalbe in general are right out (except the snakeskin ones or whatever they’re called, might work).

just wondering what does go easily on a Crest, or does the bead socket work by being damn tight? ‘cos there’s **** all else to hold the tyre 🙂

ok, when I say ‘ghetto’ I mean running a normal (not made for tubeless) tyre with the thin rim tape and some gunk. whatever.

the fact remains I get the RoRos and the Mud X on 26 inch Crests fine, have done it several times

IW4M

(double post)

Tubeless Victory is Mine!![/u]

I’ve done pretty much everything on my bikes, bled brakes, serviced air forks, built wheels…but had never gone tubeless. Until today.

Wiggle were doing 29er crest rims for £36 each a few months back so I bought them as a project. I also managed to find a s/h XTR M965 front hub to partner a rear I had from an eBay bargin donor wheel. Some XTR centrelock rotors from eBay for £26 and a box of spokes miraculously the right size in the shed (unfortunately only 2.0mm straight gauge Sapim Leaders 🙁 )

I got some yellow tape for £13 from eBay, some mould builder modeller’s latex from eBay for £20 and bike-discount.de were doing Rocket Rons for £50 delivered a pair.

So this little lot cost a total of £170ish plus spares bin raids.

Bloody chuffed with them too. I followed the Stans videos on YouTube
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mA4nea1UT0w
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xckq32K2MPk&feature=relmfu

and some tips in here (thanks matt, tazzy)

And they both went up first time. One tyre is still a bit tight on the rim but is getting easier, the other is easier still. So the overnight @ 40psi might have stretched the bead a bit.

Mixing the latex down a bit

The best bit is the weights. My Everyday Wheels are Superstar hubs in Salsa rims with tubes, avid rotors and Racing ralph on the front and Ignitor on the back = 2,325g Rear and 2,225g Front (it’s a swappable front hub)

These wheels build up to 970g R and 800g F wheel weights and 1,720g & 1,580g respectively fully loaded with tyres/latex/rotors etc.

That’s a weight saving of 605g at the back and 645g at the front (-30%!). I cant WAIT to try them out!

Well done. Not so hard eh?

You’ll fly. The Crests and the RoRos were a big win on my 26.

Have you tested the fluid with a hole? (I use the ‘proper’ Stan’s stuff).

(Now I feel inadequate because I’ve never built a wheel).

ps pls link up the RoRos you bought, ta.

here we are

http://www.bike-discount.de/shop/k980/a45239/rocket-ron-evo-pacestar-29-x-225-tl-ready-folding.html

£54 delivered for a pair.

Have you tested the fluid with a hole?

Its not leaking now, Im damned if Im going to sabotage it 🙂

Its not leaking now, Im damned if Im going to sabotage it

(I never did … but I’ve had them seal OK after thorn flats on the trail).

RoRos now en-route. That’s the very first part of my new 29er build so I guess I’m committed now!

Well my Hope Pro II and ZTR Crest combo arrived. The tyres were easier than i expected… mostly due to watching the vid of that random old bloke fitting the roadie wheel lol. Put it on, give it a little seat into bead.. put a bit more… then a wiggle for the centre… etc.. got both on using fingers 🙂

They came in at 1704gr which is a superb weight for £280.

Well I read this and was dreading swapping my tyres on my Crest rims (bike shop put them on originally) Well I changed them with very little swearing 🙂 Didnt need levers to get them on (Maxxis Advantage) Needed a compressor to seat them but nowhere near as difficult as I was fearing 😉