Installing Reverb Stealth

Hi.

I am upgrading my post to a Reverb stealth, on my frame it is externally routed until the lower seat tube where there is a slot for the cable to run inside the frame.

Am I correct in thinking I just need to undo the hose from the saddle via the black knurled housing, insert the hose through the frame and re-attach, then route the hose externally?

I have watches a few videos where they remove the hose but they were all based on bikes which have ‘full’ internal routing from the head tube.

Thanks

Not sure about the hose being connected to the saddle.

The routing on my reverb stealth on a canyon spectral is similar to what you describe otherwise. The connectamajig like thing on the bottom of the seat post unscrews. You disconnect the tubing and push it up through the hole at the bottom of the seat tube. Make sure you’ve put the grommet on it first to stop the seat tube wearing a groove or hole in the tubing outer. Push the tubing up out the top of the seat tube. Reconnect to the bottom of the post. Insert the seat post into the seat tube. Then set the seat post height.

Now take the dangling remote and tubing and lead it up the down tube. Secure it to the cable guides. Pop the remote on the handlebars. It should now be stealthy and attached.

Hi PC
i just fitted a new reverb stealth 170 to my new bfe frame 2 weeks ago. same exit point on the seat tube as you it sounds like.
i watch the sram tech video which explained it well.
basically i unthreaded the remote from the hose. i then fed some standard gear cable outer through the exit hole and up out the top of the seat tube. then i connected the outer with the hose using the red double threaded connector. pulled the gear outer back out which pulled the hose through. then cut the hose to the right length and refitted the remote. finally bled the system. first 2 bleeds the remote switch was not returning out quickly enough so i bled again with the bike in a vertical position which sorted it. careful cutting hose to right length. mine is fine for turning bars. but a little short for a easy bleed.
i managed in the end and i have very little finesse.

parrots method sounds easier.

?!
A new 170 Stealth would have a connectamajig surely? It should be a bleed-free process Mike.

I’ve just done this on an old shape Kona Process – undid the black knurled doofer from the seat post with some pretty small spanners – I used a tiny shifter and an 8mm open ender (I think). The connection is sprung btw.
Stuffed disconnected hose up slot then re-attach to seat post.
Shortening the hose at the other end was also easy – speed to slow, unwind it, cut to size, then wind it back on. No bleeding.

the instructions didn’t make reference to the connectmajig. it does have one.
oh well worked out in the end.

A connectormajig doesn’t always fit through the hole in the frame.

I’ve had two different bikes (Capra and Mega) where the stealth connectamajig doesn’t fit through the hole in the frame

Thanks guys, appreciate the help.

I will give this a go later and and hopefully it goes ok!!

Cheers