[Closed] I have a hub. I have a rim. I even have a spoke key. Now what?

Copy the 3 cross lacing pattern of another wheel and use the following;

[url= http://www.prowheelbuilder.com/spokelengthcalculator ]Spoke calc[/url]

[img] [/img]

And BRASS nipples.

Not being funny but that was 2mins on Google?

Old Switch, Switch Ultra or Switch Lite?

Use http://www.wheelpro.co.uk/spokecalc/

With the dimensions for the hub from the superstar website and ERD for the TN719 (604mm I think) to work out spoke length. 3X is the standard lacing pattern.

I would suggest DT Revolution spokes, normally very reasonably priced from RoseBikes if you don't mind silver spokes. Brass nipples if your not a weight weenie although I have never had any issues with ali nipples on a few sets of wheels which are now up to about 5 years old.

[url= https://www.rosebikes.com/article/dt-swiss-revolution---the-ultra-light-spoke-48118/aid:48123 ]Spokes[/url]

EDIT: Mavic spoke support diameter IS NOT the same as ERD, so be careful using the info posted above /\

poisonspider - Member
...Not being funny but that was 2mins on Google?

Google gives you information, good and bad.

Asking here usually gets you a knowledgeable answer from someone who knows what they are talking about.

Something something Sheldon Brown

EDIT: Mavic spoke support diameter IS NOT the same as ERD, so be careful using the info posted above /\

True, it's the difference between the spoke finishing at the back side of the eyelet or the end of the nipple. It's unlikely to be make that much difference, especially if you round up the spoke length calculation.

I made a wheel watching youtube and reading Sheldon Browns site. Was easier than I expected and quite therapeutic.Wheel is still in regular use 2 years later and has only once needed any attention when I snapped a spoke on a stick.

If I can do it anyone can. All i would say would be set aside an evening with no distractions and have faith that it is not a black art just time and perseverance.

Not being funny but that was 2mins on Google?

Cheers mate - 2 mins saved 😉

But seriously, thanks for the image. I've never built a wheel so wanted to ask the hive in case there is anything obvious I miss out before I commit the spondoolies.

Old Switch, Switch Ultra or Switch Lite?

Erm, new? This fella:
http://www.superstarcomponents.com/en/switch-ultra-front-hub.htm
So Switch Ultra.

especially if you round up the spoke length calculation.

Of course this is only my humble opinion but my tip would be;

Don't be tempted to keep tightening! You can build a decent wheel without going overboard with the spoke tension.

sheldon brown is a good place to start. the rim'll be 32 hole, so you may as well go 3 cross. Brass for nipples, spoke calculators are all over the web, but you'll probably need to be able to measure the flanges, as many of them don't get updated with "every hub" (or ask Superstar, they'll know)

spokes: I use either DT comps or Sapim Laser.

How much does one round up by?

The calculator might come up with a decimal number, something point something-or-other.

Spokes aren't necessarily readily available in 1mm increments so you might have to round up to the nearest length. Anything less than 2-3mm should be ok, especially if you use the Mavic number (598mm) in the Wheelpro calc.

round up, (1-2mm is fine)

I wouldn't build your first wheel using DT Swiss Revolution, as they are very thin and light (2.0mm at the end, 1.5mm in the middle).

I usually use ACI Stainless Double Butted from CycleBasket. I'm no expert at wheel building, but I've never had any snap, plus they are quite cheap
http://www.cyclebasket.com/m9b0s454p1804/ACI_ALPINA_Stainless_Steel_DB_Spokes_Silver_Packets_of_10_

Postage is pricey, but even so still work out quite cheap (16 quid ish for two wheels).

Sheldon brown guide, you could just copy a wheel, but you'll be there all day trying to figure it out, and probably miss several important bits like:

1) All(most all) rims are asymmetric.
2) There's sound logical reasons why pushing/pulling spokes are laced either inside or outside, know these reasons and argue to the death over them (pulling spokes inside all the time for me, stops chains getting jammed, and the pushing spokes pull the spokes in under braking which can buy some critical clearance from the brake caliper)
3) There's a lot more to it than just lacing and tensioning, none of it is difficult, but each step needs doing.

A tension meter and decent stand makes life easier, not essential, but takes the guesswork out of the equation. It's perfectly possible to build a good wheel without one, it's equally possible to build a perfectly true wheel with no stiffness, spokes so loose the nipples unwind and falls apart despite twanging the spokes and determining they were all within a couple of octaves of D-flat.

I would suggest DT Revolution spokes

It say the following about DT Revs on the Rose webiste: 'DT Revolution spokes cannot be used with DT Pro lock nipples!'

So this means the spokes are bonded to the nipple? Not head of this before. Is this something that is usually ignored?

I think pro lock have an adhesive in them? beyond that I've no idea!!

You can buy boxes with hundreds of brass nipples for less than £20, they don't need to be anything special.

Wheelpro spits out 291.4 and 295.1 for 604mm ERD. I personally take these numbers and round down so 290mm left and 294mm right.

im struggling with the Wheelpro calc as I dont know my flange from my elbow.

Google is offering TN719 ERD at both 598mm and 604mm. What gives?

According to Superstar I have the following:
PDC Left 58mm
PCD Right 45mm
Flange Left 21mm
Flange Right 38mm

Then for the TN719:
ERD 598/604 ? <- im guessing that the 604 is the Mavic 'spoke support length' (to tip of nipple) plus 6mm for spoke length hidden in nipple?

Find a copy of Roger Musson's practical guide to wheelbuilding... No nonsense, clear and easy to follow

Buy the wheel pro ebook. Its cheap and gives you all the info you need to know, including how to measure the hub and rim erd as well as make a truing stand. Well worth it.

Coolio. Thanks all.

I think i've cracked the ERD/Mavic issue, i've seen various threads confirming the stated Mavic figures are short - so either 603 or 604mm should do me well.

I'll double check my flange measurements tonight and order up some spokes from Rose or CRC (£21.98 for 36 DT Comp spokes plus brass nipples at CRC).
I'm going to Heath Robinson a 'truing stand' from an inverted fork and some card markers.

Whats the worst that could happen?..

Asking here usually gets you a knowledgeable answer from someone who knows what they are talking about.

*s*****

[url] http://www.wheelpro.co.uk/wheelbuilding/book.php [/url]

I built my first wheel with this guide, worked out great

I tend to use sapim race spokes, 45p ea including nipples from spa cycles

Ok, spokes have arrived. 290/294mm

Silly question time, on which side are the shorter spokes laced? Disc side of hub?

One would assume the larger flange of the disc side would result in a shorter spoke requirement - first test lacing has proven inconclusive..

One would assume the larger flange of the disc side would result in a shorter spoke requirement

The calculator should have told you which spokes were drive/non-drive side. The disc side flange on a front wheel will usually be closer to the centre line, that plus the larger flange you mention means I'd expect the shorter spokes to be that side.