Have you been priced out of biking?

You can buy a boardman hardtail for £650 which would be perfectly fine for most of the riding most of us do.

What riding is that?

I think 1x leads to more expensive, less durable drivetrain components overall.

Only the cassette is significantly more. And last time I bought one it was only about £45 for SLX which is what, double the cost of 9sp? Admittedly this was before the big price shocks.
Posted 15 minutes ago

Cheap compared with SRAM Red Road cassette at £340!

https://www.sigmasports.com/item/SRAM/XG-1290-AXS-12-Speed-Cassette/KXF6

There seems to be a reluctance to triggers broom stuff too,

Lot’s of cash-rich, time-poor people out there – so just drop it off at the bike shop.

And probably a lot who won’t risk their cack-handedness on frames costing £2.5k upwards and forks costing £1k.

So £1700

So about the same as the hit on selling a reasonably new bike to fund an actual new bike?

Cheap compared with SRAM Red Road cassette at £340!

IIRC the RRP of an XX1 rainbow cassette starts with a 4.

Edit Yep, not even the latest version

My regular reminder that the average price of a new bike in the UK is (probably?) still less than £500.

There seems to be a reluctance to triggers broom stuff too,

I’ve always done this but my 2007 bike is just too old to upgrade. Only the drivetrain, brakes and bar/stem/saddle are transferrable. Assuming I don’t want to go 1×12, which I would prefer…!

When I got back into bikes I bought pretty battered frame and got a new paint job, looked and felt like a brand new bike. Sometimes that’s all it takes, although I appreciate it’s a little pricier these days. But I’m planning that with my current bikes.

There seems to be a reluctance to triggers broom stuff too,

This +1, my only complete new bike was 30 odd yrs ago, now I’m just sticking with 9sd & qr axles, can’t be bothered with keeping up with the arms race for the riding I do

For the riding you do.

For the riding I do it’d be crap/dangerous/un-comfy/slow etc.

“relying on n/w teeth for chain retention means that chainrings are more sensitive to wear”

I’ve found that one steel narrow-wide ring lasts about as long as six cassettes. Even the alloy ones will handle a lot of mileage because the teeth are so much thicker than shifting chainrings.

However I’m about to try singlespeed on my forthcoming 160mm 29” hardtail and although it isn’t a cost thing I’m sure that’s had a subsconscious effect on this (possibly silly) idea…

I think we’re about to enter the hammerited singlespeed pub bike being the unicorn that can satisfy everyone from DH racing to XC racing snakes ;o)

What riding is that?

the riding that most of us ( not all do).  You know bimbling out in the woods, mucking around on bridleways / paths,

It might not suit how you ride now but that boardman will be as competent if not more so than a posh bike from many years ago.  120 mm of oil damped travel compared to 80mm of elastomers etc etc.  Proper disc brakes as well

sure if you are doing big jumps and so on then its not enough bike but for an entry level bike is perfectly competent and usable and at £650 is not expensive at all

the riding that most of us ( not all do). You know bimbling out in the woods, mucking around on bridleways / paths,

How do you know what most STWers do?

I agree about the Boardman, and I’d ride one if I didn’t have the choice. Although I’d rather have a Whyte 604. More hardcore geo. There are loads and loads of great hardtails around for decent money with modern geo. It’s FS that gets expensive.

“ the riding that most of us ( not all do). You know bimbling out in the woods, mucking around on bridleways / paths”

This is an excellent example of observer bias! If this what most on STW do, who are the people starting most of the threads in the bike forum?

Surely TJ is just using a more inclusive version of “we” than just the inhabitants of this forum? I can’t see the need for the aggressive responses.

Anyway, a £500 MTB will easily cope with all the grrravel stuff.

the riding that most of us ( not all do)

You may be correct, but that is quite a big assumption. Whilst I could ride a bike like that and get away with it, it would be pretty crap for a lot of the peaks/lakes/n.wales routes i do. And i certainly don’t see my riding as gnarr to the max or wildly different to what a lot of folks on here seem to ride etc.

MOst MTBers.  You know – the same folk that make blues more popular than black runs at trail centres.  the same folk that ride bridleways not DH tracks.  The people that buy MTBs

STW is not representative and those starting threads on the bike from are not representative either

If I was racing I’d say yeah, for sure. Enduro FS bikes are getting wildly expensive and the abuse they take over a season is incredible even just as a weekend warrior.

I don’t race any more (more to do with the fact that I didn’t really enjoy it, especially as children came along) and I’m happy with what I have. My main bike is a Stooge so it’s a bit out there anyway which stops it going ‘obsolete’ to a certain extent. I guess I’m in a lucky position where I can do all my own work and I couldn’t really care less what gear it runs on it so long as it works

You can buy a boardman hardtail for £650 which would be perfectly fine for most of the riding most of us do. …..there is nowt actually wrong with it. a fine base to up0grade from I would have thought

Which is it?

It’s either fine, or it needs upgrades.
If it needs upgrades then it’s, by definition, not fine.

MOst MTBers. You know – the same folk that make blues more popular than black runs at trail centres. the same folk that ride bridleways not DH tracks. The people that buy MTBs

STW is not representative and those starting threads on the bike from are not representative either

But they are most representitive on the forum on which you’re discussing the exact subject ?

Brand new cassette for £30: https://www.spacycles.co.uk/m8b0s150p3255/SHIMANO-9spd-Alivio-CS-HG400

I built up a new bike last summer. I deliberately got one with “out of date” specs (QR wheels, 27.2mm seatpost, 1 1/8″ headset, etc) so that it would be cheaper to keep running and for cross compatibility with my other bikes. The brake levers were second hand when I bought them 15 years ago, the front wheel is shared between two bikes as is the saddle and seatpost, stem was a spare after a swap on another bike.

I’d happily ride it down the stuff in that Rob Warner video. In fact, I’d ride my ‘road’ bike down that.

I’d like to know what trails you could get down on a more expensive bike with similar travel that you couldn’t get down on these.

Boardman

or this

https://alpkit.com/products/sonder-evol-29-xt.

One of these is going to be my next bike as I try to keep up with my kids

MOst MTBers. You know – the same folk that make blues more popular than black runs at trail centres. the same folk that ride bridleways not DH tracks. The people that buy MTBs

When I am out that way I see by far the most MTBers at places like Wylie, coming out of the scary looking steep trails down the mountainside. I see far fewer on the ‘normal’ trails.

There are of course loads of people trundling around easy trails on any old bike, which is fine, but this is an enthusiast MTB forum and there are lots of people who ride technical trails regularly and quickly, so that is who the question is aimed at.

I’d like to know what trails you could get down on a more expensive bike with similar travel that you couldn’t get down on these.

As we’ve said dozens of times, it’s not about simply getting down a trail, it’s about enjoying it. I got down Cwmcarn downhill on a 21lb super light XC 26er, and I could do it all day. And whilst it was reasonably entertaining it wasn’t as much fun as pushing myself on a 180mm bike.

it will be a basic fork.  Upgrading the fork would be worthwhile

Ok tho – you are right.  Its impossible to ride offroad at all unless you have a five grand gnarpoon. I obviously dreamed that  I have enjoyed GT red and laggan black on my 25 yr old hardtail with a ten yr old fork and that my five year old 800 quid fatbike is a fine thing to ride out in the mountains and at trail centres

Molgrips – there was some FC research a few years ago that showed the blue trails were by far the most used IIRC

I obviously dreamed that I have enjoyed GT red and laggan black on my 25 yr old hardtail with a ten yr old fork and that my five year old 800 quid fatbike is a fine thing to ride out in the mountains and at trail centres

YOU enjoyed it, yes. Great. Others though might have different expectations and desires.

Nope. I mean, I definitely won’t be buying a new bike! But then I’ve only ever bought 3 new bikes in my life and none of them was over £500. Used, a couple of years old, has always been the way. Build it how you want it, better than how the brand manager wants it.

And my dh bike is 15 years old! With a bunch of more modern upgrades. Is it cutting edge? No. Is it better than it was when it was new? Yes. Was that good enough to do anything I’d do on a brand new bike? Absolutely.

Consumables are my only “HOW MUCH” moment really, because I have a taste for good tyres, it’s the one thing I hate to compromise on. Good tyres aren’t always expensive of course but even cheap good tyres are getting pricier

TL;DR- it’s mostly an issue for magpies and people who NEED the latest and greatest or the exact same thing as they wore out or whatever they’ve been recommended.

Surely TJ is just using a more inclusive version of “we” than just the inhabitants of this forum? I can’t see the need for the aggressive responses.

It’s all just wahwahwah I’m more extreme than you! silliness.

[£1700] So about the same as the hit on selling a reasonably new bike to fund an actual new bike?

the slightly eclectic spec means my current bike would never fetch anywhere near £2k. A savvy buyer could probably profit off it buy buying and breaking it up though.

getting as close as I can on spec on the Bird online builder, plus adding on the AXS dropper means well north of £4.5k for an equivilent new bike. And that from a brand known for good value builds.

@tjagain i do exactly that type of riding that you mentioned earlier.

even though i have been riding on and off mountain biking since 1988 i will happily admit i am not a riding god. i also have never been to a trail centre or ridden abroad in my life.

my kinesis sync ti ht will be deemed ancient now even though i only bought it 4 years ago (the frame was on special offer on the kenesis web site hence why i bought it).

it is 27.5″ wheel size and also doesn’t have a wheelbase that stretches 2 counties but i love the bike and have no intention of getting rid of it. it is a way better bike than my riding skill will ever be.

am not knocking the new bikes i will also add. just that my bike is more than good enough for me.

i ride the ridgeway/marlbrough downs/salisbury plain as my local offroad rides (no car so cannot travel further afield).

Add tapered forks , so you’re at new wheels, frame forks to upgrade in one hit so even if you have tapered steer I think that removes the triggers broom

You can get aftermarket straight steerers for tapered forks.

You can get aftermarket straight steerers for tapered forks.

Where’s that from? The only ones I’ve seen say maximum recommended 120mm travel.

https://www.ndtuned.com/en/tubo-de-direccao.php

Could I buy a modern 27.5 frame, fit a straight steerer fork and somehow adapt my 15×135 rear hub to it? And run 26″ wheels?

Edit: I think I’ve asked this before. I don’t think I can boostinate Hope ProIIs

Anyway, this thread sent me on a tour of ebay and I may have found a decent source of 2nd hand straight steerer forks for cheap but not crapped out so I’m going to give them a try, I reckon.

15×135 rear hub

Bollocks, another standard I’ve never heard of!

Could I buy a modern 27.5 frame, fit a straight steerer fork and somehow adapt my 15×135 rear hub to it? And run 26″ wheels?

depends on the hub but yes. Would recommend overforking – or in your case, getting a frame with less recommended travel than your current 26er, and running the rear suspension firm to compensate for the low BB height though.

It’s good to hear that many of the replies are from people who have not been priced out of it and are finding ways to keep rolling, some that seem to need massive dedication or time.

I still think there are plenty of us who know EXACTLY what we want, brands/spec/components/bikes/whatever and now have to choose to pay more for less. Several times in the past year I’ve chosen to not pay more and ride less. Which sucks for me.
‘Just get a budget hardtail from Aldi’ is missing the point completely.

i ride the ridgeway/marlbrough downs/salisbury plain as my local offroad rides (no car so cannot travel further afield).

Trains are available…

Thread hijack, but I wonder about this Vitus Sommet 27.5 with a Marzocchi 66 SL with travel adjust and 26″ wheels… It apparently has a flip chip which might have a higher BB setting. Would need new boost cranks tho, and maybe a new rear hub but that’s not so bad.

Or the Reactor for a bit less travel and more climbing ability.

I run an old (1998 or 1999) lightweight 26″ 100mm HT and a 27.5″ 130mm full sus and can’t see me replacing either any time soon although I will have to at some point.

It used to be easy to upgrade MTB’s with all bikes having 9mm QR axles, 26″ wheels etc etc. now the only parts I can swap between the bikes I own are the handlebars, saddle and brakes. I will struggle to get good wheels for the 26″ when I pancake my last set and will have the same problem with the 27.5″ at some point as its not a boost axle frame.

I think this has been the plan all along, through obsolescence force those of us that buy parts and service bikes forever to buy a new bike. Evil capitalist bike companies! Lol

I still think there are plenty of us who know EXACTLY what we want, brands/spec/components/bikes/whatever and now have to choose to pay more for less.

I want loads of stuff. Instead I race enduro on an uncool cheaper frame. Still Rips though