Full lengh vs interupted cables outers

My last 2 bikes have had full length cable outers, although I never really thought much about it. My new frame has guides for interupted outers (not sure if that's the right term) leaving exposed runs of cable (it's not a problem and fortuitously the XTR cable kit I bought isn't full length) but since different manufactuers vary in what they provide I assume that there are pros and cons to both systems. Genesis bikes for example route the exposed cable down the underside of the downtube (right in line for spray off the front wheel) and under the bottom bracket shell.

Full length outers presumably provide more protection to the cables but might generate more friction (and more places for muck to accumulate) whilst exposed cables presumably offer less friction but provide more points for water and dirt ingress.

Never had a problem with split outers in 20+ years of riding. Crap flak jacket cables and outer, but thats a different thing altogether.

My interrupted cable outer are fine on all my bikes. Just clean and lube them occasionally 😀

Happy w/split outers here too. YMMV

I never did understand why an exposed cable inner under the bottom bracket through a plastic guide fell out of favour. There was nothing to clog and the movement of the cable cleared out and dirt.

I find the best answer is gore cables. They give the low/no maintenance of a full run but without the (minimal) weight penalty and because they use shorter sections of housing (compared to a full run) the shifting is crisper.

+1 for Gore as the inner is sealed in a thin outer. then a thicker (interupted) outer with seals.

As a thread hijack, is there any reason hydraulics couldn't be used for gears? I much prefer the idea of bleeding my gears instead of cables!

Look up shimano airlines, It'll be electric soon like Dura-Ace Di2

Pros and cons for each. I have normal/ interrupted outers on most bikes, but have run a full length outer on my 66 to stop ghost shifting – I reckon nearly 7" of rear suspension was more than the short outer sections could cope with, and the inner became taught as the suspension compressed. I've not found it necessary on hardtails, on the 4" Tunner or 5.5" Intense. Just a theory! I use XTR cable sets on all bikes, but buy XT for the full length outer.

The best thing about full length cables is how easy it makes frame-slutting. Half a dozen zip ties off, and the drivetrain swaps straight onto another chassis. The worst thing is the crap that gets in there unless you route it well.

SP41 and teflon coated inners

Scott Allen Fife Engineering (SAFE) played with a hydraulic shifter years ago. No idea why it didn't catch on. It makes perfect sense.

I won't ride anything without full length cables, it just seems stupid to have it interrupted.

I won't ride anything without interrupted cables, it just seems stupid to have it full length.

swapped to full length brake cables on my commuting bike nearly 4 years ago, and with rubber wipers at the cable exit they've needed zero maintenance in that time. Seriously thinking about doing the same for the rear mech next time it gets gummed up with cack as it's been a revelation.

Seriously thinking about doing the same for the rear mech next time it gets gummed up with cack as it's been a revelation.

How about just cleaning it next time it gets gummed up with cack…works for me.

I was a full length man 😉 But after using XT/XTR cables with stainless inners and the little rubber covers and plastic end caps with the little pipe on it (scientific description) I have had no troubles 🙂

I've got full-length outers on some bikes and not on others – can't say I've noticed any difference in use.

I do like XTR cables though.

I won't ride anything without interrupted cables, it just seems stupid to have it full length.

smart arse! A full length cable will keep things clean and require zero maintenance, also means less faffing about with little bits of outer, i don't see any benefit to having interrupted cable outers, oh you might save a few grams if your into that i suppose.

For all you saying clean the cable, how to you clean crap out of the outer? You boys got super long thin pipe cleaners?

i don't see any benefit to having interrupted cable outers

Cables work best in tension, the best way of getting tension into the system is to use the frame, rather than the shifter and the mech stops. interrupted gear cable will always shift better than un-irrupted. Crap will always get into full length outers.

Whatever floats your boat really though, if you're happy with full length then go for it…

If the outers and cables get gunked up and roughened inside then it stuffs up the shifting wether its full length or interupted 🙂

How about just cleaning it next time it gets gummed up with cack…works for me.

Yeah, but why bother? If there is a solution to stop the problem, why not do it? Once filth is pulled into the cable, not only does it cause friction but also starts to wear the cable outer/PTFE liner, and then eventually the outer needs replacing – it's just a constant battle to keep it all clean or replace the cables. I would have said the same as you before actually trying it.

interrupted gear cable will always shift better than un-irrupted.

Disagree with that – ghost-shift on FS as has been mentioned above as an example where full length is the way ahead

I have both. Not noticed a difference.
Muck will get in at the ends. Full length only got 2 ends so less muck gets in, but interrupted is much easier to clean the individual runs- detach from frame, move along the inner, lashings of WD40/GT85/WHY, run them up and down a bit, re-attach to stops, done. Easy job that can be done every time you wash the bike.
With full length outers I would tend to ignore them till they get graunchy then replace the whole lot. Horses for courses.
The fact that both systems are used tells me neither one is better.

I have found full length to be far less hassle to be honest. Had no real problems with interupted cables either but full length is easier to install, and vitually maintenance free.

Ok people

Heres the one true solution : go to wiggle and buy their cheap sealed cable set made by transfil- 4 quid or so

You still run interrupted sections but the ferrules seal into an outer straw which more or less makes the system waterproof with wax / minimal greasing – the system can be taken apart for some cleaning and it just simply works for ages – I only ever need to replace the outer on the rear mech once a year or so as that sometimes gets crappy as the seal at that end isnt 100pc

sorted – now go ride yor bike

paul

If the outers and cables get gunked up and roughened inside then it stuffs up the shifting wether its full length or interupted

True, but everytime you split the cable you allow 2 extra places for crap to get in.

I'm still using the same cable, cable outer, rear mech and shifter that came on my 2006 enduro, so four years later it still works perfectly, no cleaning, lubing or anything. I'm tempted to take it apart now just to see if there is any gunk or rust or anything up there, but it just keeps on working.

Done all the above over the last 15 years and now back to XTR cable sets 😉 interrupted on HT and un-interupted on my Five.