Nice Panther. What brand? Scale 1/35?Posted 6 days ago
[ 1/35 Dragon Panther G Late" />Posted 6 days ago
Once again I will lower the tone by posting a Warhammer model rather than a meticulously rendered scale replica of a real thing. So here’s Magos Logus Torvolts, Dominus Ultima of the Nyarlax Cluster forgeworlds, AKA a kit bash of GW’s Canoptek Reanimator and Tech Priest Dominus kits, with added green stuff tentacles and of course an animal skull mask:
More pictures on flickr.Posted 6 days ago
Personally the thing I like most about models is the painting and the quality of some of the Warhammer stuff is breathtaking so post away!
Inspired by the model show I’ve raided my stash for this. The plan is for it to be completely out of the box (the only extra I have is a mask set), and hopefully (very!), have it completed for Christmas!!
A question for those of you who actually know what you’re doing, is there a knack to getting acrylic paint to take to clear plastic? I’m having real trouble getting the canopy frame to look solid and not like badly painted clear plastic, I’d like to not move my decidedly average jet provost from “decidedly average” to “rubbish” by ballsing up the last step of the model (except lacquer and decals…)Posted 3 days ago
Are you using a brush or airbrush? I use an airbrush which makes life a bit easier if you get your masking right. My approach as follows:
Step 1 – dip canopy in Future (also called Klear) floor polish. This makes it look really clear and shiny and once dry also a bit more robust.
Step 2 – masking – either with precursors masks as bought, or very thin slivers of tamiya tape that are built up so as just to leave the framing visible
Step 3 – paint! I use an airbrush and reasonably viscous paint so as to minimise bleeding under the tape. If you are really OCD about it your first coat should be the inside colour of the canopy framing, so that when you look through the glass it looks like you are seeing interior metalwork.
If you are brushing then again I think reasonably thick paint to stop the masks bleeding. There’s no way I would try and paint a canopy freehand. Masking takes time but you can always start again which is more difficult once you’ve put paint to plastic…!Posted 3 days ago
The other option of course is to just build biplanes 😀Posted 3 days ago
Cheers! I was masking with blue tack and brush painting – the kit is an airfix one that came with the paints, and the issue I think is that the paint doesn’t seem to “take” to the clear plastic like it does to the other parts – so even after many coats I can still see through it if I hold it up to the light.
I do have an airbrush, so I might try masking the canopy with tape and doing it that way.
Biplanes – I made a hawker hart when I was a kid and even the minimal rigging on that drove me insane, so nope 😉Posted 3 days ago
You could use Matt enamel paint for the inside colour as timbog describes. Then your acrylics should stick to the enamel – think of it as a primerPosted 2 days ago
Thanks again, I masked up the canopy parts with some pinstriping masking tape that I had for doing motorbike panels, hopefully it’ll do the job, then checked out matt enamel prices on the interweb, which vary between out of stock and reasonable and in stock an taking the piss.
I wandered into my basement and my eyes settled upon a can of halfords etch primer, left over from doing motorbike panels, which will take to anything, so that is what I’ve used. The inside lines should be matt grey and the outside red lines are sticking nicely now. Cheers!Posted 2 days ago
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