Chainsaw advice

What would you recommend? Want a decent chainsaw for general firewood duty. Smallish, light, reliable – relatively quiet would also appeal, if such a thing exists. Petrol. Preferably affordable.

How much do I need to spend? New or second hand?

I’d look at Husqvarna, stihl or makita – not sure I’d trust anything second hand unless you knew where/who it was coming from…

Cost depends on size/power requirements

Stihl or Husky, budget for the safety gear and possibly a course.

Seems you have good taste in chainsaws geoffj…

My wife would recommend that you do not get one as she has to try and re attach far too many limbs that have been cut off or partly cut off by people using them. Both professionals, DIY’ers

Seems you have good taste in chainsaws geoffj…

I hate the damn things, but I need to use one now and again, and they are dangerous enough without trying to make a B&Q’s own model do what it should without any drama.

Husky gets my vote.

In over 21 years of working in a rural area I’ve seen one chainsaw accident victim
He only had a bit of a cut too but that was pure luck as he didn’t have his gear on.

So not sure where Funcy’s wife works to see so many.

Depends on how much you are going to use it. If you want to use it regularly then see above and get a good quality Husky or Stihl. If you only use it a few times a year then (dare I say it) a McCulloch is far cheaper and will do the job. The come with Oregon chains and bars and cut very well. Problems come with higher use when the cheap plastic parts wear out and they can get difficult to tune consistently.

Don’t worry, I am actually quite safety conscious in my old age.

So if I’ve narrowed it down to a brand (say Husky for example) do I just then get what I can afford (lower end)? Will I end up wishing I stepped up to the next most expensive? Are there big durability differences?

Also – can anyone recommend a supplier? Don’t mind if it is online – looking for discount!

Buy new, and Sthil for £250. Easy to use and spares are available easily.

I’ve had one for fifteen years for firewood logging, still going strong. You can get almost any part for them from Horsham Fencing – half hour from you. They stock all the new range and everything to go with it too. 🙂

If you step up the range they get bigger and heavier, not what you want by the sounds of it. All of their stuff is proffesional so no durability issues.

Fabulous woodsman – thanks for the advice.

Husqvarna or Stihl. Better tools to start with and you will still be able to get parts for them years down the line. Makita and Echo are now coming through as dependable brands. Jonseerds are old Husqys rebranded, not very civilised saws, more of a farmer choice of big and powerful pig iron.

Small Stihls tend to be cheaper, though I am a Husqy man myself for all out power and durability, though tend to be a bit heavier.

Check your local chainsaw dealer for a second-hand machine. Heavy users like ourselves p/x for new saws every 12-18 months. Better saws at a fraction of new prices that will easily survive a more gentle pace of life.

EDIT: I know Husqy won’t warranty online sales, similar to Trek?

I have a Stihl MS250 16inch bar, great saw, not too heavy, will run all day as long as you have enough fuel and chainbar oil, 1 tip use top grade/premium petrol, as this makes the saw run better, the local store that serviced mine suggested it and it does make a difference, also if you get a combi can it makes having the oil and fuel together so you only need to carry one can, also get a spare chain then if one is blunt you can keep on cutting and plus one for safety gear, hat trousers, gloves as the blade is travelling at about 70mph around the bar it will cut through flesh in a micro second, my ballistic saw trousers have a small nick in them stopped my leg from falling off

Just to repeat most other comments, Stihl or Husqvarna. I did a training course that used Stihl, so looked at buying one, but at the time were abit more expensive than Husky, so got 360 (I think that’s what it is) Husqvarna. I got a good deal on the saw and a load of protective gear. Expect to spend more on protection than the saw.
No problems with the saw over about 3 years use (working on a small bit of woodland)

Stihl or Husky, budget for the safety gear and possibly a course.

+1 on the course.

Stihl – according to my brother (runs a tree surgery / landscape gardening company so knows his onions). Incidentally he dislikes the things but a necessary evil to be handled very carefully.

(You don’t want to get him started on irresponsible dealers selling unsuitable saws to people without the safety gear or knowledge to handle them properly. Our local shop won’t let you buy unless he’s sure you know what you’re doing)

I could really go with one for firewood and for use in our garden but until I can find the time and money for a course at the local agricultural college, I’m not going to get one.

Woffle – that is pretty typical of the Stihl/Husqy divide. Tree surgeons say Stihl, foresters go with Husqvarna

For firewood cutting you don’t really need anything over 50cc, don’t be tempted by a big bar, 13″ is all you’ll need (I’m using a 15″ bar for stuff with 42″ bases) and will keep the saws power delivery up.

Lantra 2 day course would cover you for saw maint. and cross cutting. Most importantly, it will teach you sharpening and chain tension. This is the training course for NPTC CS30.

I’m not desperately unhappy just using my 36″ bowsaw. But it does take a lot of time. My dad shames me – still finding and cutting up all his firewood by hand aged 81 (they only have log burner for heating, plus coal in the Rayburn).

oh, and:

– relatively quiet would also appeal, if such a thing exists. Petrol

Not possible, that’s why you’ll need ear defenders.

I’ve just sold three saws on ebay. I have had both Husky and Stihl, I used the husky on a daily basis for nearly 5 years and it was superb, started well, ran well and had plenty of power for a 45cc. My stihl on the other hand whilst not being a ‘professional’ saw (there are diferent levels of saw in Stihls range) was used less often but required more maintenance. My other stihl stuff seems the same – leaf blower, hedge trimmer , pole saw and strimmer- never start as consistently well as the Husky stuff and have had a few breakdowns. So I’d recommend the Husky stuff – look out on ebay for second hand and get it serviced by a dealer and they should be right. Oh and other people have said, get at least foot and leg protection and a helemt with ear defenders and visor.

I bought a cheap import from Ebay 2 years ago and it cost me £ 65 brand new. It,s been ideal for cutting wood for the woodstove and providing you keep the chain oiled and sharp + the right 2 stroke mix then it will last years. I think the sellers name is Direct Imports.
Also i wouldn,t bother with an expensive one unless you use it for a living.

We use to have Sthil at work, stick the bar in the water and the damn things would keep cutting where as the Huskys just come to a stand still. But I must admit if I was just cutting clean wood i’d get a Husky. For small saws we have Husqvarna 346xp at work and mine has been faultless in the 2 years i’ve had it.

“So not sure where Funcy’s wife works to see so many.”

A hospital 🙂

She says that professionals tend to say in x number of years I’ve never seen an accident. Well its a bit late when they loose their arm or leg.

For info – chainsaw oil, £9 per litre at b&q, £18 for 5 litres delivered from http://www.chainsdirect.co.uk (Oregon branded).

+1 for what handyman says. I have the same Stihl and combi can. Just don’t forget to budget for safety boots, trousers, gloves and hard hat with defenders.

Firewood you say, need this minimum 😆

Just my own experience, but having been let down by stihl on reliability, then customer service I’d choose husky everytime.

I’ve got both a stihl and a husky and I’d recommend the correct PPE and a one day training course.
As has been mention before chain saws are nasty pieces of work mulitple razor sharp teeth rotating at over 40mph. if you don’t understand what the tree limb will do when it’s cut or the impact of using the wrong part of the bar then it doesn’t matter how cheap or expensive or reliable the saw is, it will still “bite” you.

excellent tools in the right hands on the correct job

She says that professionals tend to say in x number of years I’ve never seen an accident. Well its a bit late when they loose their arm or leg.

I’m a medical professional.