Home Forums Bike Forum Cannondale Trigger? Bargain

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  • Cannondale Trigger? Bargain
  • parkesie
    Free Member

    Must not buy some for mine 🙂

    zerolight
    Free Member

    Here’s a 750ml bottle on mine. Side entry cage. Easy to get in and out whilst cycling up a tough climb.

    swainy90
    Free Member

    Question for the techies out there. Been having a few issue with my drivetrain and thinking maybe just upgrade the lot new narrow wide, chain, cassette, derailleur then will be sweet hopefully. Question is I currently have the standard slx clutch mech. Do I upgrade to the zee or xt? Then do I go long or medium cage in the xt or short cage zee. What does the cage length affect?

    zerolight
    Free Member

    Cage length affects the size of the gear spread you can get on the rear cassette. I’m running what u assume is medium XT with a sunrace 11-42t black alu cassette. Works OK with a goat link. I’ll probably upgrade this year if SRAM bring out an affordable 12 speed.

    In other news – my brakes are finally on as the 180 brake adaptor arrived today. Need to bed them in and go for a ride on Saturday.

    kneebiscuit
    Free Member

    They look lovely! Not jealous at all! How heavy are they vs the XT?

    zerolight
    Free Member

    Ashy. I never thought to check. 🙂 Blinded by the bling. I used to have M4s on my old bike and kinda missed them. According to the Internet it’s 287g each end for the Shimano and 266g for the Hope. So there’s probably a bag of crisps in it.

    kneebiscuit
    Free Member

    I miss my old m4s too. One finger stoppies at will. Let me know how you get on with the new ones. If they’re as good as the old m4s I might well be tempted!

    zerolight
    Free Member

    Any carbon owners running offset bushings? Curious if they are worth trying. Not that I have any issues with my bike right now.

    kneebiscuit
    Free Member

    Yup, I do. no complaints here.

    zerolight
    Free Member

    What did the change feel like?

    kneebiscuit
    Free Member

    Hmmm. Hard to say honestly. Perhaps less sharp in elevate mode, but really not that much difference, and I think because you have the ability to switch travel and geometry with the elevate/flow switch that it’s fairly hard to pinpoint a difference, as the bike feels so different switching between the modes. I hadn’t had the bike that long when I did it, so didn’t have a lot to compare it to.

    zerolight
    Free Member

    Cheers. Maybe I’ll give it a shot. Offsetbushings.com? Did you install a pair? Holes inside right?

    kneebiscuit
    Free Member

    Yes, offsetbushings.com, great service. Holes opposite to a normal shock, so inside. Not convinced they don’t rotate under the pull force tbh!

    zerolight
    Free Member

    Ah yes. Outside since its pull. And given that, under tension as the rear compresses and pulls the shock they will naturally want to move outwards so won’t rotate inwards.

    Guy on pink bike said the outer bush sleeve was too wide for his Jekyll and needed filed down so as not to contact hus frame. No such issues you’re end?

    swainy90
    Free Member

    Hiya guys. Anyone decided to upgrade to 1×11 on there trigger 4? Dunno if it’s worth it really? If so what did you go for and how much better is it?

    zerolight
    Free Member

    Maybe one bushing is enough, changing the angle by about 0.75 degrees vs two for 1.5 degrees. Seems most trail bikes run around 67 degrees, like the Bronson. The Trigger is 67.5 in flow and 68 in elevate. One bushing would give you 66.8 and 67.2. Even that seems to remove some of the benefit of the elevate mode. No?

    zerolight
    Free Member

    Swainy. Depends. If you are going 1x anyway?

    1×10 vs 1×11 the main difference is the steps between gears. You still have the same 11-42 range (unless you convert to SRAM and go 10-42).

    In my case I didn’t want to fuss with a new rear mech and front shifter so I just swapped the cassette to 11-42 and the fro the ring to an oval 32t.

    However if you plan to change your rear mech too then you you as well go the whole hog with 1×11 and replace the shifter too. No sense not to. But then if you are going to go the whole hog route, it makes sense to wait a bit and see if SRAM bring out a cheaper 1×12. In which case do what I did as a stop gap.

    longmover
    Free Member

    I have offset bushings on my Trigger 4, I run 2 bushings and it has made it a great stable descender and a huge amount of fun. But, the bottom bracket is now very low and the front is very wandery when climbing.

    swainy90
    Free Member

    Cheers zero light. I’m currently running a 30t narrow wide and rear cassette is 11-36. Can you buy a cassette that’s 11-42 then? This would definitely help with my climbs

    zerolight
    Free Member

    Swainy,

    I bought this one, the Sunrace MX3. Not only is it a cool black colour, but it’s lighter than the £10 cheaper silver one by a reasonable amount.

    http://thecycleclinic.co.uk/products/sunrace-mx3-10-speed-11-42t-black-wide-ratio-mtb-cx-cassette

    I also installed a goatlink to get a better chain wrap.

    http://shop.18bikes.co.uk/m9b0s599p2459/LINDARETS-Goatlink-2015

    The only caveat that I didn’t originally budget for, I needed a longer chain to cope with the 11-42. It needed two more links than the 11-36. I’m guessing you shortened yours for the 30t, so you could maybe put them back, otherwise get a new chain too.

    zerolight
    Free Member

    I so need to clean that cassette!

    zerolight
    Free Member

    longmover – have you tried just one bush to see how that affects your BB and climbing?

    longmover
    Free Member

    I haven’t and don’t intend to, I like the way it feels and can trade of the climbing side of things as the extra slackness benefits the downhill side of things. The BB height isn’t too much of an issue just a few more pedal strikes than normal. I have a 430mm long reverb at about 10mm off the limit on an XL frame so when it is extended fully I sit pretty close to being inline with the rear axle.

    swainy90
    Free Member

    Zerolight that looks Great mate. Is the goatlink to replace part of the original hanger then? Also did you have to do much to the derailleur so it is able to change to a much bigger size (42) or is it ok? Think I might go down the same route as you mate seems a decent set up

    zerolight
    Free Member

    Initially I wound out the rear derailleur a fair bit with the b-tension screw. That worked but it was a little more sluggish to shift. Then I got a goatlink which as you say replaces the existing link. You can do it in a couple of mins without releasing cable tension. Then I put the b-tension back where it should go. The main thing was chain length, but the 32t oval is 34t in one direction, 30 in the other, so I had to cater for maybe more chain length than you.

    Harry_the_Spider
    Full Member

    Back end bearing just pronounced dead on mine. Can’t grumble after 2,350 km.

    swainy90
    Free Member

    Cheers zerolight gonna buy tonight just one thing. What chain did you go for mate? Gonna order the whole lot. 32t narrow wide chain cassette change the whole lot. Cheers

    zerolight
    Free Member

    KMC X10.93

    zerolight
    Free Member

    Ashy. Brakes were awesome today. Very adjustable. Way less grabby than the XT. Plenty of power and control.

    kneebiscuit
    Free Member

    Oh no, don’t tell me that!

    RustyNissanPrairie
    Full Member

    I ran two offset bushes in my Jekyll – was miles better than stock as I felt the BB is/was too high

    zerolight
    Free Member

    I’ve ordered one bushing to try. Sounds like it’ll get me to ballpark Bronson angles of 66.8 to 67.2 depending on mode.

    swainy90
    Free Member

    Can someone give me a run down on these bushing. I have no clue what they do but a lot of you are talking about them so must be advantageous. Is it to adjust the geometry of the frame?

    zerolight
    Free Member

    They shift the position of the eyelets in the shock relative to the frame. In the case of the Jekyll and Trigger, they make the frame see the shock as a little bit longer than it actually is. On a pull shock this has the same affect on the bike as compressing the shock slightly would, making the bike sit lower at the start of the travel. This does two things, it lowers the bottom bracket and slackers the head angle. One bush moves it about 0.75 degrees, two 1.5. Each bushing drops the BB around 5mm.

    Stock, your bike has a 68 degree head angle in elevate. When you flick the lever to flow it slackens to 67.5 and the BB drops 5mm.

    If you stick one bush in, you will start at about 67.2 or thereabouts, and the drop to around 66.7 when you move to flow. If you run with two then you’ll start around 66.5 in elevate and drop to 66 in flow.

    Modern trail bikes tend to be around 66.5 to 67. The Bronson for example is 67. More burly enduros like the Yeti SB6 are around 66. I do a lot of climbing so going below 67 in elevate seems too much, not that I’ve tried.

    Slacker should mean more stable at speed downhill, and easier to lift the front. Small changes apparently gave a big impact. I’ve not tried one of these yet. Too slack and it wanders and lifts when climbing.

    swainy90
    Free Member

    Cheers zero light definitely sounds like a decent addition. Tbh I been thinking about getting an enduro because I do find jumping from my dh bike to the trigger I’m struggling with front end dipping. Where do you buy these bushes from? Are they easy to fit also. And changing the geometry of the bike can this cause stress point in the frame?

    zerolight
    Free Member

    Offsetbushings.com

    Looks like remove a bolt. Pull the bushings. Fit the new ones. I imagine we might need to take air out the shock too but not certain. I’m just getting one, will swap out the one at the top of the shock. I think they are fairly harmless. But I’m changing it at the linkage rather than the frame end just in case.

    RustyNissanPrairie
    Full Member

    easy enough to change – remove the shock from the frame – use a bushing removal tool to remove the original shock DU bushes, press in the new supplied offset.com DU bushes then install the actual offset drilled mounting, roughly line up where the offset hole needs to be, assemble the shock back in the frame, compress the rear suspension to fully align the offsets then tighten the mounting bolts up.

    My input to this thread is a few pages back and I really struggled with my Jekyll’s geometry once ‘new bike syndrome’ wore off. Offsets were a good move and it started to feel geometry wise where I wanted it to be. Then the bloody thing cracked!

    They shift the position of the eyelets in the shock relative to the frame. In the case of the Jekyll and Trigger, they make the frame see the shock as a little bit longer than it actually is.

    shorter than it is

    zerolight
    Free Member

    Rusty, on a push shock they make it appear shorter. On a pull shock the make it appear longer (unless you put them in back to front). The dyad extends (gets longer) under rear compression unlike a traditional shock.

    parkesie
    Free Member

    Stuck my carbon2 into a drystone wall front tyre ripped off front brake hose torn out of calliper me bruised and cut to shit. Wall had a big hole in it. Xrays came back no breaks and my arm should work again in a couple of days. Fork and frame survived unscathed which is a relief.

    jaylittle
    Free Member

    Sounds like you had a lucky escape. Managed to do the same on my trigger 4 a year ago….. totalled the frame, glad yours survived with minor damage.

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