Cannondale Trigger? Bargain

Looks good does that Zero! Need to get my WildGriprs back on, these mavic tyres are far less confidence inspiring!

Thanks Ashy. Looking forward to Sundays loop around part of the West Highland Way.

Did yours come with the Red Supermax graphics? Mine are grey…

Mine are half red half grey like this one,…

I hummed and hawed over putting a goatlink on for my sunrace 11-42t. Caved and ordered one yesterday. Huge difference to the shifting and the chain wrap. Only took 5 mins to fit too.

Strange question guys. I’ve got a trigger 4 and do some short xc rides so just want a bottle of water to take around with me. I have now bought two bottle cages and bottles and both have been awkward to get bottle in and out without fouling on the frame when taking out and in. Can anyone that has the same bike as me recommend a bottle cage and bottle that will fit with ease. I use chain reaction a lot so if purchased off there that would be great. Cheers in advance

I use a Specialised Zee Cage on mine. The same as the one on zerolight’s bike above. Works fine with a 750ml bottle. That is on a large carbon frame.

Looks good but don’t them clips rub a scratch the frame?

I am also suffering with major chain slap causing no end of chain drop and even coming off the jockey wheels at the back and jamming up. I have the standard slx clutch rear derailleur which works great at the bottom but the top of the chain is bouncing all over the shop. Is there anyway round this?

None of my bottle cage touches the frame. I think what you are referring to as clips is the pump holder that is mounted under the bottle cage. It isn’t part of the bottle cage.

Ahhh ok thanks Jason. Think I’ll get one ordered

I am also suffering with major chain slap causing no end of chain drop and even coming off the jockey wheels at the back and jamming up. I have the standard slx clutch rear derailleur which works great at the bottom but the top of the chain is bouncing all over the shop. Is there anyway round this? I have the cannondale trigger 4 which I have upgraded to single narrow wide up front. Not sure but could it be because my rear mech is either a long or medium cage which need upgrading to a shorter one?

Swainy. I had that issue for one ride just after I removed and deep cleaned my clutch mech slx. I tightened the clutch as tight as it goes. Haven’t dropped a chain since. The shifting was stiff for a ride but now seems back to normal

Cheers crazy. How do you tighten the clutch? Also it’s the top part of my chain that is bouncing all over the shop because there nothing to tension it which is why the chain is coming off. Bottom part of the chain where the clutch is working is stiff

I use a side loading bottle cage. Specialized Zee I think.

Swainy maybe you need to shorten your chain.

My chain also got sucked in and jammed between the tyre and frame. It didn’t come off the chain ring. This hasn’t happened since I tightened the clutch.
Turn the clutch off.
Remove the cover.
Tighten the very small bolt.
Details on youtube.

I’ve also had that lots of times crazy. Ok cheers I will try what you mentioned see if that helps. Do they loosen over time then the clutch mechanism?

Had a great ride today!

The clutch uses friction to stop the bouncing so it does need adjusting. I couldn’t feel a massive tension difference with my hand pushing the mech but I haven’t had much chain slap or chain drops since

Try a Fabric cageless bottle:
http://www.tredz.co.uk/.Fabric-Cageless-Water-Bottle-600ml_86013.htm

I have one, but due to a buggered back haven’t had a chance to test it! MRI in two weeks so fingers crossed its nothing too serious.

Been out cycling once since June and it’s doing my head in!

Pauls have got a couple of 2016 habits and a jekyll going cheap and the new 2017 range up now. Mean while the trigger is doing sterling work of making me smile.

DSC_0735 by chris[/url], on Flickr

Quick question for the people that have taken their lefty-equipped bikes to their local ‘dale dealer to have it sent off for the upgrade – did the dealer charge labour and/or postage?

Also, has anyone noticed much of a difference in performance?

No one?

I took mine off myself. Quite easy. Sent to TFT . Paid shipping for outbound only. My dealer planned to charge shipping only too. Via dealers they go to Cannondale distributors for work. Via yourself they go to TFT.

Not a huge difference in performance. Biggest difference I find even before upgrading is to regularly reset bearings, like every month.

Pauls have the carbon 2 in stock again £2300 and some jekyls

I’ve just been in to Paul’s Cycles shop in East Dereham today. One of the guys behind the counter was a complete numpty (the retail apprentice apparently), didn’t know anything about bikes! Luckily, I spoke to some of the guys there who do ride bikes and they reckon that they have some 2016 Jekyll 3 and 4 bikes coming in any day… They wouldn’t give me an exact price, but they reckon V-Cheap! I’m picking my bike up from it’s service later this week so will scope out the deals then.

So because he’s an apprentice he’s a numpty?

They do read this thread you know.

Absolutely no offence intended.. .That said. From what I overheard, I don’t think this particular example could read/write/do anything worthwhile. Nothing against the very capable apprentices that proliferate elsewhere naturally. 😉

Havent had much to post. Dropped it off for the spring recall and decided to go for the 160mm while they’re at it, should be $40 so why not. I find that on the really high speed rock gardens I like to ride that the lefty gets packed so I run pretty high pressure and pretty fast rebound but that impacts the rest of the riding. Thinking that 160 gives me more leeway to work here, either keep the same setup and not pack it or drop the pressure and rebound a tad and get more use of the fork.

On the question of service yes they are charging for removal and reinstall, but I am such a horrid bike mechanic I want them doing it not me. Worth the small labor charge to not have me do something that voids a warranty or cracks something.

The Dyad blew a huge lugie of snot at me when I reset the sag one day and it was getting pretty bobby riding it. Think water got in it. Servicing that too.

Shop is doing their standard first year of ownership service while it’s there.

Will be without it for 2+ weeks but it’ll be better than new when I get it back.

they have a couple of Jekyll frames going really cheap… really tempted. Anybody here ridden one? Not sure if the extra weight would be worth it for those 20mm of travel.. Particularly as there are no hills where I live!

Never ridden it. Jekyll has a higher BB than the Trigger does, it’s actually + offset. You can add +20 to the Trigger lefty just not the rear. You can also put chips in both to drop them -1*. Supposedly the Trigger gets -1* from going to 160mm. So if you do 160 trigger + chips you end up with roughly the same head angle as the Jekyll with chips but a lower BB and 140 rear travel. I can’t do both or I’ll never make it up the steep hills here so I chose the 160mm travel.

Travel isn’t only for hills. A perfectly smooth hill would be fine on a 100mm HT. If you ride flat nasty rock gardens or rooty areas at speed the extra travel can come in super handy.

New Jekyll is only lefty in Carbon 1, no more in Carbon 2.

Blatant plug but im selling my brand new boxed/unbuilt warranty replacement 2016 Jekyll frame, shock, Hilo post, Sram1400 cranks with Raceface direct mount sprocket if anyones interested?

Thinking about some new wider rims for the Trigger 4. ERD is 3mm less so just swapping them straight over *should* be ok. 29mm internal width will make a difference I hope?

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/mobile/wtb-frequency-i-29-mtb-rim-2017/rp-prod151649

Just a quick one guys. Anyone of the top of there head remember the bcd on the shimano deore cranks supplied with the cannondale trigger 4? Cheers

Trigger 4 wasn’t deore cranks, but the ones supplied were 96bcd

Cheers mate. Pretty sure mine are deore???? What are they if not?

herodirt22 – Member

they have a couple of Jekyll frames going really cheap… really tempted. Anybody here ridden one? Not sure if the extra weight would be worth it for those 20mm of travel.. Particularly as there are no hills where I live! I was just looking at those frames – enticing price! I have a 26 Jekyll and tbh I only like it when it’s pointed downhill, find it quite hard work in general. Given the dyad shock it should be one of the better climbing enduro bikes – I think I have a bit of a mental block with it as my main bike is an anthem which is so good it just makes the jekyll seem like it’s wasting my time on most terrain.

So for non-hilly landscapes it sounds like a non-starter IMHO, but would be a nice luxury to have for trips to the mountains. My interest in it is whether the 27.5 geometry would be a significant improvement on my one – I could prob keep the same fork as well.

They were unnamed Shimano ones, not a bad crank for the money though.