Cannondale Trigger? Bargain

Guys I just noticed the spacers under my stem on my Lefty are a little loose. No rattle but I can spin them with my fingers. I assume this is because there’s no compression nut on this type of fork and is no big deal.??

No big deal on mine.

No big deal as it’s a triple clamp.

Mine spin too. As do everyone’s I think. If it bothers you, loosen the stem bolts and push down on the stem as you retighten them.

Cheers. Just checking with the experts on here. 🙂

Has anyone else started suffering from the lefty wheel wobble yet?
Lbs have fitted a shim that Cannondale recommend but it is back after 3 miles of riding!…

Lefty wheel wobble?

As in bearing play? I overtightend one ages ago and that killed the bearings. New bearings and not hanging off the Allen key sorted it.

Mine has developed play in the front hub. Apparently it is quite common and c’dale sell shims to remove the play.
If I remove the front wheel and put it back on, it’s fine for a couple of miles then the play comes back.

Just what are the benefits of a Lefty again? 😉

They’re the only fork I’ve never bothered to service and had no problems with.

I’ve just ordered the Trigger 2 from Paul’s Cycles (in fact looks like I may have got the last one – as it’s since disappeared from the website) – and as this seems to be THE place for Trigger questions, I thought I’d come out of hiding and post.

I’ve gone with a ‘Large’. This size seems to come with a rather long (80mm?) stem, which is probably the first thing I’d like to swap out. Is there anywhere I can pick-up a shorter Cannondale stem?

I did check some of the Cannondale spares places (Querty) – but C’dale stems seem a little thin on the ground.

Thanks in advance for the help.

My trigger 4 fork float 32 evolution ctd seems to be misbehaving. It’s making a sucking noise on the rebound and it’s also become easy to push through the climb mode blowout.
Would these things be a warranty repair or a service?
Thanks for any advice

Also want a shorter stem for mine, not many 1.5 steerers around.

Found this one but it is expensive/ugly:

chainreactioncycles.com/controltech-fx-1-5-stem/rp-prod51167

anything better?

A few have gone with Thomson Elite X4s I think.

Got a 45mm Thomson on mine sold the old one for 23..

60mm Easton Havoc stem on my XL Trigger 4

I have a 50mm Easton Havoc 1.5″ that needs a new home ….. Email in profile 😉

Thanks, decided to go with the Thomson!

Well my Trigger Team turned up yesterday, and I must say it’s a pretty scary beast. Not had a chance to ride it other than up and down the road, but it’s waaaay more bike than the TNT Turner Flux it is replacing. I hope I can do it justice.

Few more questions for y’all. The Lefty lockout stiffens the fork up, but doesn’t lock out completely. Should it?

Has anyone else had what I suspect is a creaky rear Mavic SLR wheel? I’m hoping it’s just the spokes bedding in, it seems to be getting better. I’d rather that than a snappy carbon rear end as earlier in the thread.

Oh, and is it possible to remove the front mech direct-mount? It’s bolted on, but looks like it could be part of the pivot assembly?

I love my Trigger 3. My biggest gripe is the cable routing under the BB, cable hanging down and it looks a mess. I see there is a small grommet in the seat tube, can this be used for internal routing of some of the cables? Has anyone done it?

The seat tube grommet is for and internal dropper, it joins up with another under the lower shock mount and exits by the head tube.

@ Kaysee. Can’t help with the creaky wheel, but the Lefty lockout isn’t a full lockout, so yours is working as it should.

Edit. As for the front mech mount, leave it on and fit the OneUp direct mount chain device. Cheap, very light and works a treat.

Routed my dropper internally, certainly much neater. Agree about the cables Routed under the BB. I’ve got some pretty nasty cable rub in that area too.

Happy with cable rub but it just looks gash! 3 cables hanging an inch under the BB. Was re-routing the dropper to internal easy or do you have a different (stealth?) dropper?

Is anyone having trouble with the trigger 3 dropper leaking…?

Not noticed the dropper leaking, but the remote snapped off in my hand last week – well the cable had snapped. It had been starting to get a little tight. On inspection the cable inner was as dry as a bone near the seat post and it had also come out of the guideline.

Last night’s ride was cut short when I noticed I had very little travel up front on my Lefty. Bottomed out 40mm or more before the end result of the shaft with a clunk. I hoped all it needed was a bearing reset. The long ride home felt a little off as I was aware of a lack of damping and travel was short and soft.

It was the bearings. 5 min job and back to normal. Spent more time setting the sag than fixing the issue. Only dud about 500km which was less than I expected before needing the reset. On hindsight it probably needed it sooner. Might do it every couple months.

I also noticed a strange clicking, tapping sound when pedalling under load. Similar to the cracking sound of a slightly loose saddle. Sounds like it’s coming from the cranks, BB, or thereabouts. Any ideas. Does it seated or standing and only on inclines where there’s more effort through the pedals. The carbon models have SRAM BBC which are supposed to be pretty good so hopefully not that failing. Pedals are Superstar Nano X.

Could be the lower pivot bearings, they are not particularly well sealed and in a prime position to collect mud.

I can bounce around manically with no noise so it’s not bearings or shock.

its not the sag indicator on the shock is it?

I also noticed a strange clicking, tapping sound when pedalling under load. Similar to the cracking sound of a slightly loose saddle. Sounds like it’s coming from the cranks, BB, or thereabouts. Any ideas. Does it seated or standing and only on inclines where there’s more effort through the pedals.

Let me know if you fix this, is sounds similar to my noise, which so far I’ve put down to the spokes settling in. First ‘proper’ ride tomorrow so will see if it goes away.

Probably not this but I had a creak, so removed the rear shock, still creaked, was the brake hose rubbing under the BB!

Also, had a rock cut the rear brake hose just after setting off at the top of Walnar Scar.

I made sure my cables were clear on the frame already so I don’t think it’s that. Also long since removed the sag indicator. Checked and the cranks seem tight. I noticed that the end cap on my pedals were a little loose, especially the drive side. It’s too wet to see if that was the problem, and I’m about to drive to France leaving the MTB in the garage. I guess I’ll report back in a couple of weeks. Thanks for the suggestions. I did also cable tie my dropper cable to the little boss on the tube just below where it goes into the frame. Odd that it only happens under power though. Seems like a BB, crank, pedal, or chairing issue. Happens on either chain ring which would seem to rule that out.

Took the stickers off my Crossroc wheels today, looks much better IMHO..Too gaudy by half..

Might take the stickers off mine theyre getting tatty and peeling where theyve taken scrapes.

I like gaudy.

RustyNissanPrairie – Member
Fitted offset shock bushes to my Jekyll tonight – will report back.

I wasnt loving my Jekyll after the initial new bike love wore off, it was pushing the front a lot on loose fast corners with no sign of the back breaking free (tyres are now 2.3 DHF & HR2), it also still felt a bit ‘flippy floppy’ into corners as though once you started leaning in it then fell over into the corner. I was also not nearly catching my pedals enough compared to previous bikes which isnt a good sign.
Ordered a set of brass offset bushes and also dropped the sag to 40% rather than 35ish (centre of the white area on the indicator)

Has made a huger difference – the BB is sitting lower which has stopped the flopping feeling and the both tyres now break traction at the same point. Its also more stable at speed through rock gardens.
All in all worth doing.

Pretty much the same with the trigger once you have fitted offset bushings.

where is the best place to get offset bushings and are they easy to fit on the Dyad?

Hi all.

My dyad. Still Seems very stiff, been through all different pressures but still the shaft doesn’t ever bottom out only ever see about 2″ of the shaft.

Could it be stuck.

I was thinking if I empty all the air pressure out would this show if the shaft is somehow stuck in the chamber. I presume then it should move freely showing all the travel it is supposed to have.

Or would this just totally fu**k it up??